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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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01-25-2018, 05:00 PM

#3361

MattDub

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Quote:

Originally Posted by MattDub

Hello Everyone, we released a recommended indoor (clay) setup for the EB410. Be sure to follow the entire setup and yes the diff oils are a bit odd, but it works very well!

One thing, if you're on a medium to high traction track go to 7-30-7 diffs. Highly recommend this setup. It's very good.

01-25-2018, 06:00 PM

#3362

RazorRC

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Quote:

Originally Posted by MattDub

One thing, if you're on a medium to high traction track go to 7-30-7 diffs. Highly recommend this setup. It's very good.

How are you getting the 1.4mm rear sway bar, are you adapting the front somehow?

01-26-2018, 02:18 AM

#3363

AJrollin

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Quote:

Originally Posted by urnotevenwrg2

Good luck with cheap Chinese titanium. Lunsford stuff is expensive for a reason.

Lunsford uses 6Al/4V grade 5 titanium which is the same grade as what I got and what most titanium for this application is...yup same stuff.

"Lunsford stuff is expensive for a reason" your right...they want to make money, I just don't feel like giving them my money when I can have the same for less.

01-26-2018, 02:24 AM

#3364

ljungberg

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2 Days of testing now on high grip carpet with the longer rear brace on. No bulk breakage. Put 3 washers in the rear for better roll center and It was a huge difference. The car sweeps corners real well now.

The only thing I noticed was that the Raceform front tower began to feel a little bit swampy in the plastic so I went back for the cf Tower i had Before. Much better feeling in the car after this.

I want to change the ball cups and turnbuckles to Associated parts. Anyone know what parts number I should use to have the correct ones?

01-26-2018, 04:00 AM

#3365

YMMV

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ljungberg

I want to change the ball cups and turnbuckles to Associated parts. Anyone know what parts number I should use to have the correct ones?

The popular choice is the AE B5/T5M cups. I had 2 spare sets from both my old B5M Lite and T5M.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91453/p275225

I run these with the Lundsford Ti turnbuckle kit.

01-26-2018, 06:27 AM

#3366

Tijuana_Taxi

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Barry

For you, you need to look at your facebook message and run Brian's setup

(Cain's on carpet not clay)

For everyone else run Red front with 600 and 1.7 piston, pink rear with 2.0 and 550.

Where can I find the carpet setup you're referring to, I don't do Facebook?

01-26-2018, 06:59 AM

#3367

Bob Barry

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Tijuana_Taxi

Where can I find the carpet setup you're referring to, I don't do Facebook?

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/tekno/...Blast20180120/

01-26-2018, 04:26 PM

#3368

RodRC

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Those b5m ballcups fit on stock ballstud?

01-26-2018, 04:28 PM

#3369

rcgod

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RodRC

Those b5m ballcups fit on stock ballstud?

Yes

01-26-2018, 04:34 PM

#3370

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RodRC

Those b5m ballcups fit on stock ballstud?

They should. The AE ballstuds are the same width as the Tekno studs. I have the AE ballcups but I haven't made the switch as the stock rod ends have held up to my abuse

Though they are difficult to make adjustments without them popping off (use two 2mm hex drivers to hold them in place).

01-26-2018, 05:06 PM

#3371

urnotevenwrg2

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Quote:

Originally Posted by AJrollin

I have a very hard time believing that Chinese titanium is the same alloy and grade as the stuff Lunsford uses. A Japanese steel company recently got in trouble (again) for embellishing specs on some steel.

I know I've read on here where other people bought Chinese titanium round stock, and found that it bent easily.

YMMV.

01-26-2018, 06:00 PM

#3372

RazorRC

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I bought Lunsford turnbuckles individually in the same length as Tekno, but if I had to do it again I’d get some that are a couple of mm shorter. Stock turnbuckles are threaded almost all the way to the center, but my Lunsfords have a few mm unthreaded towards the center. With B5M ballcups, there’s not enough threads for some of the shorter camber link setups. 2mm shorter should work better.