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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 10-18-2018, 09:35 AM
  #4711  
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Why is there not even one dirt setup on the tekno website for this vehicle. This seems sketchy as someone who is looking to race ..on...dirt. lol.

Sure, i bet i can find setups out there for dirt, but the fact that the manufacturer doesn't see fit to even have one for this vehicles is a bit alarming.

Thoughts?

p.s. I love tekno and will prob buy this car, a lot of guys at my track have success with it. This just seems really odd.
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Last edited by mike142; 10-18-2018 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 10-18-2018, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by mike142 View Post
Why is there not even one dirt setup on the tekno website for this vehicle. This is seems sketchy as someone who is looking to race ..on...dirt. lol.

Sure, i bet i can find setups out there for dirt, but the fact that the manufacturer doesn't see fit to even have one for this vehicles is a bit alarming.

Thoughts?

p.s. I love tekno and will prob buy this car, a lot of guys at my track have success with it. This just seems really odd.
The kit setup should actually be a good starting point for dirt. I imagine they don't have official setups for it mainly because it seems most of Tekno drivers race on clay or carpet. So it's probably difficult to nail down an official setup without visiting loose dirt tracks. I think PetitRC will have some alternative setups but I've never ventured over there for a gander.
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Old 10-18-2018, 10:47 AM
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The club in my area has both a 1/10 turf track and 1/8 dirt track at the same facility, normally they don't run 1/10 cars on the 1/8 track, but for grins they experimented at a big race one time, I made minimal changes from my turf setup, basically ride height, tires and rear toe/squat and it was a blast, the EB410 drifted just like my EB48 and ET48 with lap times almost the same between all 3 classes... no doubt the EB410 is a solid contender on dirt!



I think it's just more difficult to find setups for big races from pro drivers because most 1/10 events are on clay, carpet and turf lately
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Old 10-18-2018, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by mike142 View Post
Why is there not even one dirt setup on the tekno website for this vehicle. This seems sketchy as someone who is looking to race ..on...dirt. lol.

Sure, i bet i can find setups out there for dirt, but the fact that the manufacturer doesn't see fit to even have one for this vehicles is a bit alarming.

Thoughts?

p.s. I love tekno and will prob buy this car, a lot of guys at my track have success with it. This just seems really odd.
It is equally odd that there are just so few public set ups for Tekno products. There isn't a site yet for the ET410 on petitrc, and their EB48 set ups are super old. The Tekno RC forum hasn't much either. The last EB410 posted set up on the official Tekno web site was last February!
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Old 10-18-2018, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by mike142 View Post
Why is there not even one dirt setup on the tekno website for this vehicle. This seems sketchy as someone who is looking to race ..on...dirt. lol.

Sure, i bet i can find setups out there for dirt, but the fact that the manufacturer doesn't see fit to even have one for this vehicles is a bit alarming.

Thoughts?

p.s. I love tekno and will prob buy this car, a lot of guys at my track have success with it. This just seems really odd.
If you join the nw tekno page on Facebook the NW tekno manager provides great setups that we use for 1/8th tracks. After you join the page look in the files section.
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Old 10-19-2018, 01:53 AM
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Default Setups

Mike142 try this link. Should cover your setup needs TeknoRC EB410 Manual & Setup Sheets
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Old 10-20-2018, 01:08 PM
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Default EB410 chassis.

Having only had a new EB410 just about a month now I decided to update to the Revised Chassis and Blocks, it looks like the only ‘running change’ to what’s included in the kit currently is the ‘A-Block’..

Chassis and B Block included in the kit are the original/previous version, not the ‘Revised’..

On that note, after assembling the new bits, it seems as the Rear End of the chassis may have received a minor rework as well..

Previously I had to add a few shims under Rear Brace to get the chassis to sit flat. Don’t have to do that now..

Only thing I wish for now is Stiffer Front Arms that don’t warp around the hinge pin.

Im really enjoying this car on track tho. Lots of fun.
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Old 10-21-2018, 03:47 PM
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Default Shock O-Rings

Are there any alternatives to the stock Tekno O-Rings for the shock?

Wold of like to try something different.
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Old 10-21-2018, 08:40 PM
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Somewhat related to OSherman's question --

I am thinking of switching from Associated b64d to an eb410. I googled a few "must-have upgrades Tekno eb410" and saw a few threads and a few YouTube videos. The MIP shock cartridge spacer set was highly recommended on basically all of these, but then I found that they are discontinued on the MIP website, and not in stock many (maybe any) suppliers.

I then found the TKR6708 product, which appears to be similar. I searched this thread and only found a few people comment on the MIP product, and only 1 post regarding the new Tekno equivalent. So is everyone using either the MIP or the new Tekno replacement in the shocks, or just smashing the 2 X-rings directly together and bleeding shocks more frequently than pretty much all other models on the market?
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Old 10-21-2018, 09:22 PM
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First weekend with the new wheeler and I must say, great car. Easy to push hard and very durable. Can't wait to run it again.
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Old 10-22-2018, 03:20 AM
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I have been running this chassis for 2 months now and it has been a pleasure. Still working on a couple of setups for my driving style.

My issue: I keep losing left front wheel nuts more often than I care for. Once in a while right side ones. I am using TLR front rims and I have tried a couple of different brands of nuts. Any one experience this? I’m not opposed to replacing the output shafts on the front. Just not sure which direction to go.
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Old 10-22-2018, 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Bruce_R View Post
Somewhat related to OSherman's question --

I am thinking of switching from Associated b64d to an eb410. I googled a few "must-have upgrades Tekno eb410" and saw a few threads and a few YouTube videos. The MIP shock cartridge spacer set was highly recommended on basically all of these, but then I found that they are discontinued on the MIP website, and not in stock many (maybe any) suppliers.

I then found the TKR6708 product, which appears to be similar. I searched this thread and only found a few people comment on the MIP product, and only 1 post regarding the new Tekno equivalent. So is everyone using either the MIP or the new Tekno replacement in the shocks, or just smashing the 2 X-rings directly together and bleeding shocks more frequently than pretty much all other models on the market?
Everyone has upgraded to the new (Tekno, black) spacer set.
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Old 10-22-2018, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Bruce_R View Post
Somewhat related to OSherman's question --
I then found the TKR6708 product, which appears to be similar. I searched this thread and only found a few people comment on the MIP product, and only 1 post regarding the new Tekno equivalent. So is everyone using either the MIP or the new Tekno replacement in the shocks, or just smashing the 2 X-rings directly together and bleeding shocks more frequently than pretty much all other models on the market?
Use the upgraded Tekno product #6708, they work great.
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Old 10-22-2018, 05:49 AM
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So I take it that if you're running a low profile servo and the tekno specific aluminum horn you'll want to run it with high side facing up, correct?
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Old 10-22-2018, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Bruce_R View Post
Somewhat related to OSherman's question --

I am thinking of switching from Associated b64d to an eb410. I googled a few "must-have upgrades Tekno eb410" and saw a few threads and a few YouTube videos. The MIP shock cartridge spacer set was highly recommended on basically all of these, but then I found that they are discontinued on the MIP website, and not in stock many (maybe any) suppliers.

I then found the TKR6708 product, which appears to be similar. I searched this thread and only found a few people comment on the MIP product, and only 1 post regarding the new Tekno equivalent. So is everyone using either the MIP or the new Tekno replacement in the shocks, or just smashing the 2 X-rings directly together and bleeding shocks more frequently than pretty much all other models on the market?
I recently switched over to the new Tekno cartridge, the original design came with white nylon and had a raised bead on both sides, the new design is black and flat on one side with an extra spacer that goes between the o-rings now... I haven't had the need to bleed with the new design, this is what you want to get if you're upgrading an original release kit:
https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr6708...s-eb410-et410/
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