If you don't have a spare ESC or motor to swap (to help you identify what is broken), you
can test your motor by disconnecting it from the ESC and attach the leads of your motor to a "D" sized battery. A good working motor should turn from the power of the battery (just make sure your battery is a good one that has a charge).

I don't think i've ever seen a silver can die ...ever. But its not to say it can't happen. Usually the ESC's go first.

If it is your motor, you can get a brushed silvercan for super cheap..If you are sure its your motor I could mail you one for shipping only (assuming your in the USA). -I have like 5 or 6 silvercans all used but all working, i'd love for someone to get use out of them ...or just go on eBay and get one ...I think they should be like $15 or less (not even sure what they sell for ...haven't bought one outside of a kit in like a decade).
(just PM me).

Could be an electrical problem, but if it was a hard enough impact. I'd more inclined to check all the drivetrain gears, diffs, shafts etc. All it takes is one gear to move slightly & it will lock everything up tight. Try to force it to move before checking it over & that's when you risk making more damage. By all means check anything else but don't check the moving parts at your peril.

By the way if you want to change text or a whole website to a different language - try Babelfish, it really works.

I just bought a D sized battery and tried to make the motor spin with it. I can see sparkle coming from the lead when it touched the pole but nothing else happened. (Green negative cable was attached to the negative pole and yellow positive cable touched positive pole for less than a second)
I'd like to disassemble the motor to check rotor and stators. Is it possibile?

After the impact, prop shaft was stuck and didn't spin (when I was waiting for the battery to be shipped, I spun it by hand to see how transmission worked) but diffs worked fine (if i was turning one wheel, the other one was turning on the opposite side). I dissassembled all the car to check diffs, gears, etc. but it was just when I detached the motor that prop shaft spun freely even by hand. I can't see any damage to the teeth of pinion, spur and diffs gears

Hi from Spain Manlito! I hope you solve the problems with the car, did you check your bearings?? It could be broken and don´t place the shaft on the correct place, so that it doesn´t attach correctly.

I´m glad to show yoy my TT02 Skoda Fabia vs Subaru Imprezza XV01 and Lancia Stratos Rally Legend ^^

+ YouTube Video

That looks awesome!

Torque Steer -
Does anyone have issues with what appears to be torque steer? It's the one thing I can't seem to sort out. If I grab the throttle hard it pulls to one side. I've checked my shocks for consistency and equal length, nothing suspension wise is binding, nothing on the drivetrain appears to be binding. All wheels stop at the same time on the bench when I test it....

I'm coming up empty for things to check. It's adding frustration an otherwise really fun kit.

I should add that at moderate throttle it tracks fine. Only when I punch it does it pull.

Easy Fix: Reduce your punch level on ESC

Hard Fix: You need to rebuild the both Diffs. What did you put for the front and the rear diff?

I was thinking the same thing ...Also double check that your drive shaft engages on opposite sides of the front and rear diff ...not on the same side. ...so basically each diff should have the large exposed gear on opposite sides (does this make sense)???

...you can, ...its been years since I opened one. You'll have to bend the metal tabs on the one end of the motor to open it up.

CAn you see anything when you look in the vents on the motor? I remember running an off-road truck w/ a brushed and getting a stick stuck in one of the vents. It was a tiny piece of bark actually and it jammed up my motor ...I was able to get it out w/ tweezers ...but took awhile as it was lodged in pretty good.

Thank you very much! I didn't see anything through the vents of the can, that's why I wanted to disassemble it. I found a small piece of iron wire (or something like that) between the rotor and one of the magnets. Probably it went into the motor through the vent, because rotor coils aren't damaged. Tomorrow (here it's midnight at the moment) i'll bash the car and see if problem is solved.

Can you remove the motor mount from the chassis to make sure it's completely flat & not bent? If the pinion & spur gears aren't perfectly aligned or too close to each other they can't spin freely.

Not Possibile. Your motor does sound dead. Yeah racing has some brushed "hackmotos" that look like they could be a good replacement. A 23T should be a bit faster than your silver can, and still have a decent lifespan while allowing good runtimes.

http://www.rcmart.com/hackmoto-brush...cPath=1560_948

I have taken the ESC punch down to zero, and rebuilt both diffs already. Should have mentioned that. I have another diff I can build from scratch, and may do that for the front and see if running the front diff nearly dry will help. The rear diff is running very litle grease, and turns very freely. The front diff is running perhaps a little too much AW grease in it. It's "tighter" due to that.

Diff alignment is right, that much I check whenever I tear it down to check and clean.

Are any of you guys/gals using your tt02 for drifting & if so what's it like? I've had a tt01d in the past & are now running a vintage Losi but obtaining parts is an issue. If anyone has any suggestion on different chassis please share - I've been drifting for almost 7 years so don't mind spending the coin provided it's not stupid. Unless I can get more parts for the current car it'll have to be replaced.

Hi all, I just picked up the Zakspeed Capri and have a question about the body. It is 9 pieces and the manual says to use double sided tape to put some of them on. I can't help but feel that this will look a bit wonky. Is there an epoxy that would work or would CA glue work on the painted bits? I'd really like to get this right the first time.