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Old 01-14-2021, 03:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tamiya TT02 Thread
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TT02 Wiki - Post your setups, upgrades and home grown ideas here for us to read...

TT02 vs the TT-01
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/01/ta...irst-pics.html
New flat chassis layout - Easier to run LiPOs vs the cutouts in the TT-01s
Revised suspension geometry
Support for std spur gears

MODELS ----------------------------------------------------

Changes that follow are in comparison to the basic kit.
TT02 - Base Kit. Friction Dampers.
TT02D - Drift: Drift Tires, Hardened A-Parts, Oil Shocks
TT02R - Race: Rear Alu 3* Toe In Hubs, Alu Propshaft + Cups, CVA oil Dampers
TT02RR - Race+: TT02R + Adjustable Upper Arms, Oil Filled Diffs, Hardened Blue Chassis
TT02S - Type S: TRF416 arms, FRP shock towers, bearings,
TT02SR - TypeS Race: TT02S + Double cardan front drive shafts, rear lightweight universals, Rear sealed oil differential, front spool
TT02B - Buggy. Offroad: CVA Shocks, Double Wishbone long suspension

HOP UPS ----------------------------------------------------

Bearings:
#54476 Ball Bearing Set TT02: 8x 1050, 4x 1280, 4x 1150

Propshaft:
#54501 Alum Propeller Shaft TT02
#54502 Alum Propeller Joint TT02
Tip:
Put a 3mm piece of well greased silicone hose between the dog bone and the shaft of each wheel to reduce slop.

Motor Mount and Gearing:
#54558 TT02 Aluminum Motor Mount
#54500 High Speed Gear Set
#54875 Oil Gear Differential

Steering:
#54550 Low Friction Step Screws
- Full Upgrade Kit -
#54752 Steering Upgrade Kit, Includes all below.
- Individual Parts -
#54574 Aluminum Steering Set
#54575 Aluminum Steering Bridge
#54799 Hi-Torque Servo Saver or #51000 Servo Saver Black
#54248 Aluminum Turnbuckles 3x23
#50797 5mm Short Adjustable Turnbuckle End


Dog Bones to Universal Joints:
- Standard Steel -
#53792 Universal Shaft Assembly (steel), NOTE: Must also use item 54477 on the TT-02
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (steel) (2pieces)
- Lightweight -
#53506 Blue Aluminum 39mm Swing Shaft
#53499 Wheel axle for assembly universal
#53681 Titanium wheel axle for assemblu universal (but this is very expensive)
#53500 cross joints for universal
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (2pieces)
Tip: Run steel in the front, Alu is okay for the rear but the front takes a lot of wear and impact from crashes

Shock Options:
#54753 Super-mini CVA Oil Shocks, comes with med black springs
#42102 TRF 55mm Shocks

Chassis:
#54639 Carbon Damper Stay Front
#54640 Carbon Damper Stay Rear
#47339 Hard Lower Deck Blue
#47340 Hard Lower Deck White
#54926 Hard Lower Deck Black
#54733 Aluminum Rear Uprights, Gives 3* rear toe in for extra stability
#54549 Aluminum Rear Uprights, 2.5* Rear Toe In
#58584 Hardened A-Parts, Uprights, Hub Carriers, Diff Covers, etc

SUGGESTED BASE SETUPS ----------------------------------

Bashing:
Build to the kit instructions and have fun!

Asphalt Parking Lot Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 3K oil in the rear diff for low / medium grip, 5k oil in the rear for medium / high grip

Carpet Indoor Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 7k -10k in the rear diff for very high grip carpet.


ADDITIONAL RESOURCES -------------------------------------

TT02 Build and Review here
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/05/ta...nd-review.html

TT02 Tuning and Mods Guide
http://www.thercracer.com/2014/08/ta...-and-tips.html
https://www.rcdriver.com/take-the-versatile-tamiya-tt-02-chassis-to-the-next-level/


Gearing for 17.5t Blinky
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/07/ho...inky-with.html











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Old 06-06-2016, 03:36 AM
  #946  
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This car is really cheap and fun, i´m using mine on rallycross and is awesome!!
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Old 06-06-2016, 04:52 AM
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Thanks for your answers and hopups advice.
Yesterday I was bashing in the parking lot and I ran my car into the tyre of a car the motor was damaged by the impact and now it doesn't run. It seems like something inside the can is stuck. Is there a way to open it and check the damage?
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Old 06-06-2016, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Manlito
Thanks for your answers and hopups advice.
Yesterday I was bashing in the parking lot and I ran my car into the tyre of a car the motor was damaged by the impact and now it doesn't run. It seems like something inside the can is stuck. Is there a way to open it and check the damage?
When you say "doesn't run" does it sound likes it's spinning but no power to spur? That might be a loose pinion gear. If you get nothing when you grab the throttle, but the steering works, it could point to the impact damaging the ESC, which is pretty unlikely, but could be diagnosed with a cheap multi-meter to see if voltage is getting to the motor.

Can't say I've eve heard of an impact killing a silver can motor. You can certainly burn out a motor a number of different ways.

When you hit the tyre, did it get stuck, and you then perhaps tried to reverse it? The kit provided ESC does have voltage/current protection built in, but it's more likely you burned out the ESC than broke the motor.

Hopefully the motor trying to spin, and the pinion simply needs to be retightened.
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Old 06-06-2016, 08:42 AM
  #949  
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Originally Posted by steve_pss
When you say "doesn't run" does it sound likes it's spinning but no power to spur? That might be a loose pinion gear. If you get nothing when you grab the throttle, but the steering works, it could point to the impact damaging the ESC, which is pretty unlikely, but could be diagnosed with a cheap multi-meter to see if voltage is getting to the motor.

Can't say I've eve heard of an impact killing a silver can motor. You can certainly burn out a motor a number of different ways.

When you hit the tyre, did it get stuck, and you then perhaps tried to reverse it? The kit provided ESC does have voltage/current protection built in, but it's more likely you burned out the ESC than broke the motor.

Hopefully the motor trying to spin, and the pinion simply needs to be retightened.
Sorry for my bad English (I'm Italian ). I searched for TT-02 infos and this was the most useful thread I found, so I decided to register.
I mean the motor itself doesn't spin. When I grab the throttle, voltage to the motor is 7,9V. I dissassembled the car to check diffs and gears and everything is ok. I'm spinning the motor shaft by hand, but it doesn't spin.
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Old 06-06-2016, 09:30 AM
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Cables are still connected to the motor? Maybe a solder joint broke?
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Old 06-06-2016, 09:49 AM
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Sorry for my bad English (I'm Italian ). I searched for TT-02 infos and this was the most useful thread I found, so I decided to register.
I mean the motor itself doesn't spin. When I grab the throttle, voltage to the motor is 7,9V. I disassembled the car to check diffs and gears and everything is ok. I'm spinning the motor shaft by hand, but it doesn't spin.
If you don't have a spare ESC or motor to swap (to help you identify what is broken), you
can test your motor by disconnecting it from the ESC and attach the leads of your motor to a "D" sized battery. A good working motor should turn from the power of the battery (just make sure your battery is a good one that has a charge).

I don't think i've ever seen a silver can die ...ever. But its not to say it can't happen. Usually the ESC's go first.

If it is your motor, you can get a brushed silvercan for super cheap..If you are sure its your motor I could mail you one for shipping only (assuming your in the USA). -I have like 5 or 6 silvercans all used but all working, i'd love for someone to get use out of them ...or just go on eBay and get one ...I think they should be like $15 or less (not even sure what they sell for ...haven't bought one outside of a kit in like a decade).
(just PM me).
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Old 06-06-2016, 05:10 PM
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Could be an electrical problem, but if it was a hard enough impact. I'd more inclined to check all the drivetrain gears, diffs, shafts etc. All it takes is one gear to move slightly & it will lock everything up tight. Try to force it to move before checking it over & that's when you risk making more damage. By all means check anything else but don't check the moving parts at your peril.

By the way if you want to change text or a whole website to a different language - try Babelfish, it really works.
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Old 06-07-2016, 01:53 AM
  #953  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
If you don't have a spare ESC or motor to swap (to help you identify what is broken), you
can test your motor by disconnecting it from the ESC and attach the leads of your motor to a "D" sized battery. A good working motor should turn from the power of the battery (just make sure your battery is a good one that has a charge).

I don't think i've ever seen a silver can die ...ever. But its not to say it can't happen. Usually the ESC's go first.

If it is your motor, you can get a brushed silvercan for super cheap..If you are sure its your motor I could mail you one for shipping only (assuming your in the USA). -I have like 5 or 6 silvercans all used but all working, i'd love for someone to get use out of them ...or just go on eBay and get one ...I think they should be like $15 or less (not even sure what they sell for ...haven't bought one outside of a kit in like a decade).
(just PM me).
I just bought a D sized battery and tried to make the motor spin with it. I can see sparkle coming from the lead when it touched the pole but nothing else happened. (Green negative cable was attached to the negative pole and yellow positive cable touched positive pole for less than a second)
I'd like to disassemble the motor to check rotor and stators. Is it possibile?

Originally Posted by rcmadkiwi
Could be an electrical problem, but if it was a hard enough impact. I'd more inclined to check all the drivetrain gears, diffs, shafts etc. All it takes is one gear to move slightly & it will lock everything up tight. Try to force it to move before checking it over & that's when you risk making more damage. By all means check anything else but don't check the moving parts at your peril.

By the way if you want to change text or a whole website to a different language - try Babelfish, it really works.
After the impact, prop shaft was stuck and didn't spin (when I was waiting for the battery to be shipped, I spun it by hand to see how transmission worked) but diffs worked fine (if i was turning one wheel, the other one was turning on the opposite side). I dissassembled all the car to check diffs, gears, etc. but it was just when I detached the motor that prop shaft spun freely even by hand. I can't see any damage to the teeth of pinion, spur and diffs gears
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Old 06-07-2016, 02:21 AM
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Hi from Spain Manlito! I hope you solve the problems with the car, did you check your bearings?? It could be broken and don´t place the shaft on the correct place, so that it doesn´t attach correctly.

I´m glad to show yoy my TT02 Skoda Fabia vs Subaru Imprezza XV01 and Lancia Stratos Rally Legend ^^

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 06-07-2016, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by passionrc
Hi from Spain Manlito! I hope you solve the problems with the car, did you check your bearings?? It could be broken and don´t place the shaft on the correct place, so that it doesn´t attach correctly.

I´m glad to show yoy my TT02 Skoda Fabia vs Subaru Imprezza XV01 and Lancia Stratos Rally Legend ^^

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

That looks awesome!
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Old 06-07-2016, 10:16 AM
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Torque Steer -
Does anyone have issues with what appears to be torque steer? It's the one thing I can't seem to sort out. If I grab the throttle hard it pulls to one side. I've checked my shocks for consistency and equal length, nothing suspension wise is binding, nothing on the drivetrain appears to be binding. All wheels stop at the same time on the bench when I test it....

I'm coming up empty for things to check. It's adding frustration an otherwise really fun kit.

I should add that at moderate throttle it tracks fine. Only when I punch it does it pull.
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Old 06-07-2016, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by steve_pss
Torque Steer -
Does anyone have issues with what appears to be torque steer? It's the one thing I can't seem to sort out. If I grab the throttle hard it pulls to one side. I've checked my shocks for consistency and equal length, nothing suspension wise is binding, nothing on the drivetrain appears to be binding. All wheels stop at the same time on the bench when I test it....

I'm coming up empty for things to check. It's adding frustration an otherwise really fun kit.

I should add that at moderate throttle it tracks fine. Only when I punch it does it pull.
Easy Fix: Reduce your punch level on ESC

Hard Fix: You need to rebuild the both Diffs. What did you put for the front and the rear diff?

Last edited by Jae Racer; 06-07-2016 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 06-07-2016, 01:30 PM
  #958  
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Hard Fix: You need to rebuild the both Diffs. What did you put for the front and rear rear diff?
I was thinking the same thing ...Also double check that your drive shaft engages on opposite sides of the front and rear diff ...not on the same side. ...so basically each diff should have the large exposed gear on opposite sides (does this make sense)???
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Old 06-07-2016, 01:43 PM
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I'd like to disassemble the motor to check rotor and stators. Is it possibile?
...you can, ...its been years since I opened one. You'll have to bend the metal tabs on the one end of the motor to open it up.

CAn you see anything when you look in the vents on the motor? I remember running an off-road truck w/ a brushed and getting a stick stuck in one of the vents. It was a tiny piece of bark actually and it jammed up my motor ...I was able to get it out w/ tweezers ...but took awhile as it was lodged in pretty good.
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Old 06-07-2016, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by eR1c
...you can, ...its been years since I opened one. You'll have to bend the metal tabs on the one end of the motor to open it up.

CAn you see anything when you look in the vents on the motor? I remember running an off-road truck w/ a brushed and getting a stick stuck in one of the vents. It was a tiny piece of bark actually and it jammed up my motor ...I was able to get it out w/ tweezers ...but took awhile as it was lodged in pretty good.
Thank you very much! I didn't see anything through the vents of the can, that's why I wanted to disassemble it. I found a small piece of iron wire (or something like that) between the rotor and one of the magnets. Probably it went into the motor through the vent, because rotor coils aren't damaged. Tomorrow (here it's midnight at the moment) i'll bash the car and see if problem is solved.
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