Tamiya TT02 Thread
#931
@JD Skyline:
I haven't driven the NSX body yet.
My guess is that the Super GT bodies (GT500 class) come out pretty equal in terms of balance and performance. The Lexus RC-F looked pretty much the same in close racing.
About the breaking issues:
The TT-02 is my first plastic car. And so far it appears to be pretty bulletproof. We had some hard crashes when parking-lot-racing and the car took it without damage. In comparison to my T4'15; I wouldn't be sure that the Xray is tougher...
I haven't driven the NSX body yet.
My guess is that the Super GT bodies (GT500 class) come out pretty equal in terms of balance and performance. The Lexus RC-F looked pretty much the same in close racing.
About the breaking issues:
The TT-02 is my first plastic car. And so far it appears to be pretty bulletproof. We had some hard crashes when parking-lot-racing and the car took it without damage. In comparison to my T4'15; I wouldn't be sure that the Xray is tougher...
haha...will use it for the Tamiya cup...and club competition.
#932
All I can say about the tt-01d is don't waste your money on all of the aluminium & carbon fibre upgrades. I got one off a guy who spent a small fortune who was gutted to find it didn't hold its value. Also had the XB Coppermix Silvia & didn't notice much difference once balanced with added weights. I had no idea how rubbish this model was until I got something much better but are glad I learnt with the Tamiya first.
I haven't bought any upgrades for my TT02, -other than what I think based on experience w/ other Tamiya kits would be most needed. Aluminum steering upgrade, aluminum motor mount and CV joints for the front axles. Otherwise keeping it stock (but my stock kit came w/ a lot of aluminum and fiber towers, etc... ) -so I think i've spent about $140 total including the kit and will have a pretty nice drive-able basher that shoulld handle quite well. By the way I only purchase upgrades for performance not bling ...
Last edited by eR1c; 05-31-2016 at 03:26 PM.
#933
#934
Tech Initiate
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 34
From: New England
Hey folks. So I finally have my 02 pretty well sorted out, and with the 17.5 justock and low FDR (thanks again for help there) it's running really nice as a fun time basher.
I went and ordered HPI D compound X tires, and they're great - but - I ordered 0 offset wheels, and evidently the kit wheels are more like 2mm offset (i think).
Lesson learned with my wallet, AGAIN.
I'm going to convert the body to a VTA style, and wheels/tires. I know the VTA bodies are generally 200mm, so once I again I'm worried about buying the wrong stuff. Sorry to ask for another favor, but does anyone know the actual part numbers for a set of HPI wheels and tires that would work offset wise, and be legal for VTA class?
I know they come in different finishes and such, but if someone could provide an example I'm sure I can use it to sort out the choices. I don't want to blow another $40 bucks on the wrong thing.
Thanks again everyone!
I went and ordered HPI D compound X tires, and they're great - but - I ordered 0 offset wheels, and evidently the kit wheels are more like 2mm offset (i think).
Lesson learned with my wallet, AGAIN.
I'm going to convert the body to a VTA style, and wheels/tires. I know the VTA bodies are generally 200mm, so once I again I'm worried about buying the wrong stuff. Sorry to ask for another favor, but does anyone know the actual part numbers for a set of HPI wheels and tires that would work offset wise, and be legal for VTA class?
I know they come in different finishes and such, but if someone could provide an example I'm sure I can use it to sort out the choices. I don't want to blow another $40 bucks on the wrong thing.
Thanks again everyone!
#935
Hey folks. So I finally have my 02 pretty well sorted out, and with the 17.5 justock and low FDR (thanks again for help there) it's running really nice as a fun time basher.
I went and ordered HPI D compound X tires, and they're great - but - I ordered 0 offset wheels, and evidently the kit wheels are more like 2mm offset (i think).
Lesson learned with my wallet, AGAIN.
I'm going to convert the body to a VTA style, and wheels/tires. I know the VTA bodies are generally 200mm, so once I again I'm worried about buying the wrong stuff. Sorry to ask for another favor, but does anyone know the actual part numbers for a set of HPI wheels and tires that would work offset wise, and be legal for VTA class?
I know they come in different finishes and such, but if someone could provide an example I'm sure I can use it to sort out the choices. I don't want to blow another $40 bucks on the wrong thing.
Thanks again everyone!
I went and ordered HPI D compound X tires, and they're great - but - I ordered 0 offset wheels, and evidently the kit wheels are more like 2mm offset (i think).
Lesson learned with my wallet, AGAIN.
I'm going to convert the body to a VTA style, and wheels/tires. I know the VTA bodies are generally 200mm, so once I again I'm worried about buying the wrong stuff. Sorry to ask for another favor, but does anyone know the actual part numbers for a set of HPI wheels and tires that would work offset wise, and be legal for VTA class?
I know they come in different finishes and such, but if someone could provide an example I'm sure I can use it to sort out the choices. I don't want to blow another $40 bucks on the wrong thing.
Thanks again everyone!
#937
Tech Initiate
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 34
From: New England
"0mm offset front wheels and 6mm offset rear wheels are intended for 26mm width fronts and 31mm width rear tires"
This doesn't seem like it would apply to the TT02 chassis.
#940
#941
yeah, if you want to have your wheel base a bit wider, just use wider 12mm wheel hexes and/or use a wheel spacer outside the wheel hex. I plan to use a 200mm body, so will be using 7mm wheel hexes and a 1mm spacer between the hex and wheel. This will give me about 196mm wheel base ...should be very close to fitting a 200mm body.
look here:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...13&s_maker_id=
YOu can see that the wheel hexes come in various widths, ...you just want to be sure that you get 12mm (that is the size that your wheel will fit over) -standard for 1/10th on road cars. a width of 5mm is standard for a 190mm body, so anything over will get you closer to 200mm ...but remember to double it as you are accounting for both sides of your car (both wheels). ...also, sounds like our kits come w/ hexes that allow for widening? --i haven't seen this, but I am also still building the kit and had some nice aluminum hexes in 7mm lying around.
look here:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...13&s_maker_id=
YOu can see that the wheel hexes come in various widths, ...you just want to be sure that you get 12mm (that is the size that your wheel will fit over) -standard for 1/10th on road cars. a width of 5mm is standard for a 190mm body, so anything over will get you closer to 200mm ...but remember to double it as you are accounting for both sides of your car (both wheels). ...also, sounds like our kits come w/ hexes that allow for widening? --i haven't seen this, but I am also still building the kit and had some nice aluminum hexes in 7mm lying around.
#942
Hi everyone! Last month I bought a Tamiya TT-02 and found this thread very helpful because I'm new to rc world. I use it for bashing and I'm having a lot of fun!
I'm going to buy some hopups (prop shaft, alu steering, bearings, etc.), so is it a good idea to buy also brushless motor and ESC? What tires are best for bashing?
I'm going to buy some hopups (prop shaft, alu steering, bearings, etc.), so is it a good idea to buy also brushless motor and ESC? What tires are best for bashing?
#943
Don't waste money in tuning parts. Just go for really needed parts. Prop shaft and bearing set are ok. Also a steel pinion will be a good choice.
The alu steering rack is not cheap and won't give you an advantage if you just drive around. I recommend a fan to cool the motor.
If you invest in a brushless set, keep in mind that the drivetrain has its limits. If you go stronger than 9.5t and run with highgrip tires there is a lot of stress and you will have to buy new parts.
For the tires: if you buy the standard competition outdoor sets from Solaris, Ride, Sorex or Volante the car will stick on the road. No need to pay the same money for Tamiya rims, foam and rubber.
The alu steering rack is not cheap and won't give you an advantage if you just drive around. I recommend a fan to cool the motor.
If you invest in a brushless set, keep in mind that the drivetrain has its limits. If you go stronger than 9.5t and run with highgrip tires there is a lot of stress and you will have to buy new parts.
For the tires: if you buy the standard competition outdoor sets from Solaris, Ride, Sorex or Volante the car will stick on the road. No need to pay the same money for Tamiya rims, foam and rubber.
#944
Tech Initiate
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 34
From: New England
yeah, if you want to have your wheel base a bit wider, just use wider 12mm wheel hexes and/or use a wheel spacer outside the wheel hex. I plan to use a 200mm body, so will be using 7mm wheel hexes and a 1mm spacer between the hex and wheel. This will give me about 196mm wheel base ...should be very close to fitting a 200mm body.
look here:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...13&s_maker_id=
YOu can see that the wheel hexes come in various widths, ...you just want to be sure that you get 12mm (that is the size that your wheel will fit over) -standard for 1/10th on road cars. a width of 5mm is standard for a 190mm body, so anything over will get you closer to 200mm ...but remember to double it as you are accounting for both sides of your car (both wheels). ...also, sounds like our kits come w/ hexes that allow for widening? --i haven't seen this, but I am also still building the kit and had some nice aluminum hexes in 7mm lying around.
look here:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...13&s_maker_id=
YOu can see that the wheel hexes come in various widths, ...you just want to be sure that you get 12mm (that is the size that your wheel will fit over) -standard for 1/10th on road cars. a width of 5mm is standard for a 190mm body, so anything over will get you closer to 200mm ...but remember to double it as you are accounting for both sides of your car (both wheels). ...also, sounds like our kits come w/ hexes that allow for widening? --i haven't seen this, but I am also still building the kit and had some nice aluminum hexes in 7mm lying around.
#945
Tech Initiate
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 34
From: New England
Hi everyone! Last month I bought a Tamiya TT-02 and found this thread very helpful because I'm new to rc world. I use it for bashing and I'm having a lot of fun!
I'm going to buy some hopups (prop shaft, alu steering, bearings, etc.), so is it a good idea to buy also brushless motor and ESC? What tires are best for bashing?
I'm going to buy some hopups (prop shaft, alu steering, bearings, etc.), so is it a good idea to buy also brushless motor and ESC? What tires are best for bashing?
I've found that the steering kit and turnbuckles are very useful, and helped me enjoy the kit more as it's more fun to drive with less steering slop.
So far here's what I've added, and some thoughts:
* Bearings - must have. I wouldn't build the kit without them. You can get them on the cheap if you're jsut bashing. I used the "Fast Eddy" bearing kit.
* Oil dampers - I got the Yeah Racing 55mm ones. They're cheap, and helped a lot. I'd call them a must.
* Universals. A must in my opinion. Very first curb I hit I popped a dogbone. Next day the universals were on the way to me. I'd say get the steel ones from GPM, but I couldn't find them so I want with the Yeah Racing Alum/Steel ones. I'd probably regret the alum if I really nail something, but I have spares.
* GPM clamp style wheel hexes - not really on my "must" list, but make tire changing easier (they keep the pin captive), and you wont crush the plastic hexes if you over tighten
* Alum steering kit, again from Yeah Racing. Is it needed? No. But I hated the slop in my steering. I also got the turnbuckle kit and together they helped a lot with the slop.
* Alum prop and outdrives. Got them to future proof as I stepped up to brushless motors.
* High speed gear set - Needed if you plan on tinkering with gearing options.
* Alum 2 degree camber rear uprights. Not needed, but the upside is the car tracks more planted under power.
* Alum motor mount - If you plan on going brushless this could turn in to must as it acts as a heat sink and the plastic one could warp with hotter motors. I have two TT02 kits (no fun raining yourself). One one kit is the Tamiya, but I run a low FDR gearing on mine (setup with help this thread) on mine I switched to the Yeah Racing mount, as it makes gear meshing easier when you don't have to keep guessing what hole might work that's not on the cheat sheet.
Recently I went with a Hobby Justock 17.5 and Esc combo. I could have used the provided ESC (it supports sensored BL motors, from what I understand safely down to 10.5 turns). For the price I went with the combo, so I can use kit ESC in future projects. The 17.5 adds a nice bit of zip over the torque tuned 540, while not being too quick for my meager skills. The combo of the 17.5 and gearing setup has really made the car a blast to drive.





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