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Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Tamiya TT02 Thread

Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Old 01-13-2018 | 09:38 AM
  #1681  
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Not me
Use the TT02D uprights
Different type of plastic
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Old 01-13-2018 | 09:42 AM
  #1682  
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Originally Posted by PizzaDude
Not me
Use the TT02D uprights
Different type of plastic
Thanks
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Old 01-13-2018 | 04:43 PM
  #1683  
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For anyone looking to use TT02 platform to start TCS Spec Novice class, I have made two blog post on some build tips etc. Please check it out if you are interested.

https://tobyrcadventure.blogspot.com...ss-part-1.html

https://tobyrcadventure.blogspot.com...part-2-in.html
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Old 01-13-2018 | 05:03 PM
  #1684  
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Do you have setup tips for the TT02 Pro Spec Class?
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Old 01-13-2018 | 05:26 PM
  #1685  
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Originally Posted by MD
Do you have setup tips for the TT02 Pro Spec Class?
My setup for spec novice is actually based on setup for pro spec for last year. This is because this year spec novice is moving to pro spec tire for yesteryear. There is very limited amount of things you setup for pro spec which is the point of the class I guess. For me the biggest thing is getting the right amount of down travel out of the car and widen track to make the car more stable. Front I use 2.5 to 3 mm spacers in the shock and rear I use 2mm to 2.5mm depending on track condition. You can't use +2 wheels in pro spec so I guess your best bet is to use 6mm wheel hex and use 0.5 or 1mm spacer on top of that. Yellow spring front and blue springs rear seems to be the ticket for asphalt. This setup make the turn in predictable and rear stiff enough to not over roll and over rotate. Also make sure you use the toe in rear upright.
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Old 01-13-2018 | 06:51 PM
  #1686  
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Originally Posted by tobyzhang
My setup for spec novice is actually based on setup for pro spec for last year. This is because this year spec novice is moving to pro spec tire for yesteryear. There is very limited amount of things you setup for pro spec which is the point of the class I guess. For me the biggest thing is getting the right amount of down travel out of the car and widen track to make the car more stable. Front I use 2.5 to 3 mm spacers in the shock and rear I use 2mm to 2.5mm depending on track condition. You can't use +2 wheels in pro spec so I guess your best bet is to use 6mm wheel hex and use 0.5 or 1mm spacer on top of that. Yellow spring front and blue springs rear seems to be the ticket for asphalt. This setup make the turn in predictable and rear stiff enough to not over roll and over rotate. Also make sure you use the toe in rear upright.
Thanks a lot for your help.
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Old 01-17-2018 | 07:55 AM
  #1687  
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Originally Posted by tobyzhang
Yellow spring front and blue springs rear seems to be the ticket for asphalt.

You are running stiffer springs in the back then the front? I have found that my standard TT02 with -2* rear toe was pretty tail happy with the stock springs all the way around (using CVA's).

I originally started with Blue fronts and yellow rears on my none prepared, somewhat bumpy, surface. I have since gone to yellow front and red rears to soften it up a bit but have not really gotten a chance to run it as we are gone every weekend skiing during this time of the year.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 01-18-2018 | 11:27 PM
  #1688  
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Originally Posted by LJH
You are running stiffer springs in the back then the front? I have found that my standard TT02 with -2* rear toe was pretty tail happy with the stock springs all the way around (using CVA's).

I originally started with Blue fronts and yellow rears on my none prepared, somewhat bumpy, surface. I have since gone to yellow front and red rears to soften it up a bit but have not really gotten a chance to run it as we are gone every weekend skiing during this time of the year.

Cheers,
Jim
The stock springs seems too long and too stiff and the touring car set seems to be much better suited.

What I have found is there are two modes that a car on track will lose rear traction. One is when the traction is low and the rear spring is too stiff. The stiff rear springs load the rear tire quicker than the tire can gains traction from the weight transfer. This usually happens on asphalt tracks that is dusty/low traction. Second is in high traction situations where the front tire generate turning force so quickly that the rear spring doesn't provide enough stiffness to load the rear tires fast and hard enough to generate enough traction to maintain rear traction. I personally experienced this in Japan during TCS world.

I run blue springs rear and yellow springs front at Tamiya where the track has decent grip with B3 and good grip with solaris 36. TT02, unlike most racing platform, have about the same spring leverage front and rear. Usually on chassis like TRF419 the rear wheel rate will be much higher than the front wheel rate when using the same springs front and rear. With TT02 you have to go up one rate in the rear to achieve similar spring rate split like a TRF car when using the same spring front and rear.
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Old 01-19-2018 | 06:27 AM
  #1689  
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Originally Posted by tobyzhang
The stock springs seems too long and too stiff and the touring car set seems to be much better suited.

What I have found is there are two modes that a car on track will lose rear traction. One is when the traction is low and the rear spring is too stiff. The stiff rear springs load the rear tire quicker than the tire can gains traction from the weight transfer. This usually happens on asphalt tracks that is dusty/low traction. Second is in high traction situations where the front tire generate turning force so quickly that the rear spring doesn't provide enough stiffness to load the rear tires fast and hard enough to generate enough traction to maintain rear traction. I personally experienced this in Japan during TCS world.

I run blue springs rear and yellow springs front at Tamiya where the track has decent grip with B3 and good grip with solaris 36. TT02, unlike most racing platform, have about the same spring leverage front and rear. Usually on chassis like TRF419 the rear wheel rate will be much higher than the front wheel rate when using the same springs front and rear. With TT02 you have to go up one rate in the rear to achieve similar spring rate split like a TRF car when using the same spring front and rear.
I agree, the stock springs are quite stiff compared to the Tamiya TC car springs. They are also a bit longer but did not have any preload without spacers.

I feel like I have a pretty decent understanding of suspensions but what I know is from racing full scale cars in a "stock" configuration (SCCA C-Stock) so I was not allowed to play with spring rates.

In measuring the arms on my regular TT02 the front and rear arms are the same length between pick up points and the hubs are the same in distance from the outboard pick ups but the front lower shock mount is about 3MM closer to the hub then in the rear, and to take this a step further Tamiya indicates to use the top inboard shock mount on the rear and outboard in the front. All this indicates to me that the Tamiya was trying to "soften" up the rear which in turn decreases steady state oversteer. Also reading the couple set ups I have found on the TT02 you are the only one I have seen to be running stiffer rear springs than front springs.

BTW, this is in no way saying you are wrong as it seems you spend a fair amount of time racing your TT02 where I just build a circuit on a couple tennis courts (dusty and bumpy) and run hot laps but I do find your set up a bit unorthodox but will give it a shot. What are you running weight wise for shock oil?

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 01-19-2018 | 09:25 AM
  #1690  
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I use 35wt all around. On tennis court I would agree to use softer rear to maintain rear grip. When we use locked front diff it usually counters the steady state oversteer so we can get away with harder rear.
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Old 01-19-2018 | 12:11 PM
  #1691  
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Originally Posted by tobyzhang
I use 35wt all around. On tennis court I would agree to use softer rear to maintain rear grip. When we use locked front diff it usually counters the steady state oversteer so we can get away with harder rear.
I am not locked but I am running 100K up front.

Once I am back to running the car more often I will have to experiment a bit more. The tennis courts I run at can be pretty slick at times as they get dusty but with that said I showed up one day and the courts had significantly more grip and I could see that they had been power washed. While the grip was much higher the car felt terrible and just would not rotate.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 01-22-2018 | 10:20 PM
  #1692  
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I raced my Type S on asphalt all season last summer and this was my setup -

medium springs on all four corners, 30w shock oil. -1.5 camber front, -2 rear. +1 toe front, -3 rear, ride height 5.5. spooled front diff rear ball diff. droop was set 1.5 front, 2.5 rear.

This car was on absolute rails all season and with a torque tuned motor was outpacing most 21.5 GT3 cars.
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Old 01-26-2018 | 01:55 PM
  #1693  
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hey guys,
i'm building up a bit of a speed run car from a TT02. i have the stock version of the car and i'm slowly upgrading things as i go.

from what i have been able to find the TT02S has the best suspension options.

I need a little help finding the right parts to upgrade to the S type suspension.
I have a 190mm body so are is the S type suspension wider?

I need to be running all steel drive chain. i have found the Tamiya 54477 metal drive cups and also the Tamiya 54515 42mm shafts. will these work on both front and rear?

i also need to get a hold of some aluminium hubs and C carriers but as its for speed i need 0deg camber. i can have a little toe but i would like to have that adjustable.

thank you for your time guys!

i would show some pic's but not able to at this time
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Old 01-26-2018 | 07:32 PM
  #1694  
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Hey all heres my TT-02. NSX body with HPI wing, 40shore foams, Tamiya Springs hard rear, med front. 50t pinion 67t spur 64p. SkyRc 3.5 motor with Toro 150TS esc. Took her out for a few test passes and the foams hooked awesome! My main runner for 132' no prep. Gonna have some final pics soon all painted. Got dampers and ball bearings on order
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Old 02-24-2018 | 11:51 AM
  #1695  
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Hi folks. Took me a while to read that lot! I hope you can help me. I have a stock d type s. I find it pushes a lot. If i leave the springs with no preload then it hooks badly mid corner. To counter this i added a lot of preload ot the rear. This leaves me with a very high rear end but its also nailed down but now i push through the bends. And advice please? Tamiya springs are on the way. But im wondering what shock positions you run top and bottom to get ride hight? Thanks
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