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Old 01-14-2021, 03:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tamiya TT02 Thread
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TT02 Wiki - Post your setups, upgrades and home grown ideas here for us to read...

TT02 vs the TT-01
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/01/ta...irst-pics.html
New flat chassis layout - Easier to run LiPOs vs the cutouts in the TT-01s
Revised suspension geometry
Support for std spur gears

MODELS ----------------------------------------------------

Changes that follow are in comparison to the basic kit.
TT02 - Base Kit. Friction Dampers.
TT02D - Drift: Drift Tires, Hardened A-Parts, Oil Shocks
TT02R - Race: Rear Alu 3* Toe In Hubs, Alu Propshaft + Cups, CVA oil Dampers
TT02RR - Race+: TT02R + Adjustable Upper Arms, Oil Filled Diffs, Hardened Blue Chassis
TT02S - Type S: TRF416 arms, FRP shock towers, bearings,
TT02SR - TypeS Race: TT02S + Double cardan front drive shafts, rear lightweight universals, Rear sealed oil differential, front spool
TT02B - Buggy. Offroad: CVA Shocks, Double Wishbone long suspension

HOP UPS ----------------------------------------------------

Bearings:
#54476 Ball Bearing Set TT02: 8x 1050, 4x 1280, 4x 1150

Propshaft:
#54501 Alum Propeller Shaft TT02
#54502 Alum Propeller Joint TT02
Tip:
Put a 3mm piece of well greased silicone hose between the dog bone and the shaft of each wheel to reduce slop.

Motor Mount and Gearing:
#54558 TT02 Aluminum Motor Mount
#54500 High Speed Gear Set
#54875 Oil Gear Differential

Steering:
#54550 Low Friction Step Screws
- Full Upgrade Kit -
#54752 Steering Upgrade Kit, Includes all below.
- Individual Parts -
#54574 Aluminum Steering Set
#54575 Aluminum Steering Bridge
#54799 Hi-Torque Servo Saver or #51000 Servo Saver Black
#54248 Aluminum Turnbuckles 3x23
#50797 5mm Short Adjustable Turnbuckle End


Dog Bones to Universal Joints:
- Standard Steel -
#53792 Universal Shaft Assembly (steel), NOTE: Must also use item 54477 on the TT-02
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (steel) (2pieces)
- Lightweight -
#53506 Blue Aluminum 39mm Swing Shaft
#53499 Wheel axle for assembly universal
#53681 Titanium wheel axle for assemblu universal (but this is very expensive)
#53500 cross joints for universal
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (2pieces)
Tip: Run steel in the front, Alu is okay for the rear but the front takes a lot of wear and impact from crashes

Shock Options:
#54753 Super-mini CVA Oil Shocks, comes with med black springs
#42102 TRF 55mm Shocks

Chassis:
#54639 Carbon Damper Stay Front
#54640 Carbon Damper Stay Rear
#47339 Hard Lower Deck Blue
#47340 Hard Lower Deck White
#54926 Hard Lower Deck Black
#54733 Aluminum Rear Uprights, Gives 3* rear toe in for extra stability
#54549 Aluminum Rear Uprights, 2.5* Rear Toe In
#58584 Hardened A-Parts, Uprights, Hub Carriers, Diff Covers, etc

SUGGESTED BASE SETUPS ----------------------------------

Bashing:
Build to the kit instructions and have fun!

Asphalt Parking Lot Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 3K oil in the rear diff for low / medium grip, 5k oil in the rear for medium / high grip

Carpet Indoor Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 7k -10k in the rear diff for very high grip carpet.


ADDITIONAL RESOURCES -------------------------------------

TT02 Build and Review here
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/05/ta...nd-review.html

TT02 Tuning and Mods Guide
http://www.thercracer.com/2014/08/ta...-and-tips.html
https://www.rcdriver.com/take-the-versatile-tamiya-tt-02-chassis-to-the-next-level/


Gearing for 17.5t Blinky
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/07/ho...inky-with.html











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Old 06-16-2016, 05:49 PM
  #976  
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Its so clean! Looks great man! Love those wheels and tires, do you have part numbers for those by any chance?

I finally got all my weirdness (torque steer like issues) sorted out. Took a lot of stripping and rebuilding, checking everything. What really turned the corner (odd as it is) was removing all of the shims I used to take slop out.

Nothing was binding in anyway I could see or feel, but clearly something was binding "just enough". I loosened the car up (I had shimmed the universals, out drives, etc - anywhere with a lot of slop), and as soon I re-slopped up the whole chassis, suddenly (and go figure) it was super planted and a joy to drive.
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Old 06-17-2016, 08:08 AM
  #977  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
...not sure, but I had problems w/ ShoeGoo when I used it on the painted surface of Tamiya paint. It created weird splotches where it discolored the paint ...made my beautiful paint job look horrible.
That is indeed strange
It is a normal method here in Germany to add Shoegoo where the lexan might break to make the body tougher. Are you sure it were Tamiya rattlecan lexan colours like PS-1, and so on were this happened? Or was the colour not dried inside out?
I am doing this for many years now with TC and Tamiya F1 bodies and never had an experience like you mentioned. Strange, strange...
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Old 06-17-2016, 09:10 AM
  #978  
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Its so clean! Looks great man! Love those wheels and tires, do you have part numbers for those by any chance?
I got the wheels on eBay, -i was nervous since they are an off-brand, BUT since I am not racing this car I was willing to take a chance and there were less than $5 shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111277285792...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

They seem pretty good to me, the quality is on par w/ other wheels i've bought from name brand manufacturers ...I can't tell a difference. They certainly seem like they'll hold up just fine.

The tires I have on there are a pack of Team Assosciated's

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCZD2&P=7

They are only $10 ...and are fine for parking lot bashing. I wouldn't use them and expect great grip ...not for racing. For parking lot they are perfect. Even on a high grip track they'll do fine (i've used these on some of my non-racers at the local track ...as long as there is sauce on the track you'll get good grip).
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Old 06-17-2016, 09:12 AM
  #979  
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That is indeed strange
It is a normal method here in Germany to add Shoegoo where the lexan might break to make the body tougher. Are you sure it were Tamiya rattlecan lexan colours like PS-1, and so on were this happened? Or was the colour not dried inside out?
yeah, I had a bad experience,
I tried it once and never again. ...I am guessing that the shoe goo was applied too soon after the paint job??? -I believe it was applied w/in the same day I painted the body. That could have been the issue?

In any case there was something I obviously did wrong.
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Old 06-17-2016, 09:17 AM
  #980  
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I finally got all my weirdness (torque steer like issues) sorted out. Took a lot of stripping and rebuilding, checking everything. What really turned the corner (odd as it is) was removing all of the shims I used to take slop out.
In my experience Tamiya kits (at least the kits I've built) like a little bit of slop. Its counter-intuitive ...but they seem to run just fine w/ 1-2mm of slop here and there. On my TT02 build the front wheels could be pushed in towards the chassis about 2mm ...There is a bit of slop in the front cv joints (which is what I used). I just left the slop ...testing my car it handles really well.

Speaking of, I spent a little time tweaking my car on the setup station. It handles great. I gave it about 2-3degree of camber in rear and 1-2 in front (dont' have the exact numbers in front of me). Also the stock toe in in rear and about 2degree of toe out in front. ...I did some initial runs w/ the car (no body yet), and it is really planted. Steers straight and handles nice. I am actually impressed w/ this kit, for $120 or whatever I spent, this kit performs quite well. I may have to get one for my son when he starts racing as a first car for our novice class.

-------
started work on the body this morning before work. I hope to have it complete early next week!
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Old 06-17-2016, 06:21 PM
  #981  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
In my experience Tamiya kits (at least the kits I've built) like a little bit of slop. Its counter-intuitive ...but they seem to run just fine w/ 1-2mm of slop here and there. On my TT02 build the front wheels could be pushed in towards the chassis about 2mm ...There is a bit of slop in the front cv joints (which is what I used). I just left the slop ...testing my car it handles really well.

Speaking of, I spent a little time tweaking my car on the setup station. It handles great. I gave it about 2-3degree of camber in rear and 1-2 in front (dont' have the exact numbers in front of me). Also the stock toe in in rear and about 2degree of toe out in front. ...I did some initial runs w/ the car (no body yet), and it is really planted. Steers straight and handles nice. I am actually impressed w/ this kit, for $120 or whatever I spent, this kit performs quite well. I may have to get one for my son when he starts racing as a first car for our novice class.

-------
started work on the body this morning before work. I hope to have it complete early next week!
I have to ask because I'm becoming a bit perfection obsessed with my TT02: I see many people talk about putting a TT02 on a setup station, ensuring X degrees of front toe out, etc. Here's my knowledge gap - even with the upgraded steering and turnbuckles, upgraded rear uprights, etc... there is still so much slop, easily 1-2mm front and rear, that how can anyone actually setup this chassis with a real "XYZ"degrees of ANY adjustment?

Help me out here!
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Old 06-17-2016, 06:25 PM
  #982  
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Originally Posted by steve_pss
I finally got all my weirdness (torque steer like issues) sorted out.
If it comes back, check for interference between the drive shaft and the steering linkage. Run the car on a stand and turn the wheels all the way left and right and observe.
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Old 06-17-2016, 06:37 PM
  #983  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
I got the wheels on eBay, -i was nervous since they are an off-brand, BUT since I am not racing this car I was willing to take a chance and there were less than $5 shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111277285792...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

They seem pretty good to me, the quality is on par w/ other wheels i've bought from name brand manufacturers ...I can't tell a difference. They certainly seem like they'll hold up just fine.

The tires I have on there are a pack of Team Assosciated's

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCZD2&P=7

They are only $10 ...and are fine for parking lot bashing. I wouldn't use them and expect great grip ...not for racing. For parking lot they are perfect. Even on a high grip track they'll do fine (i've used these on some of my non-racers at the local track ...as long as there is sauce on the track you'll get good grip).
Ordered both wheels and tires, thank you for the info!
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Old 06-19-2016, 08:45 AM
  #984  
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I have to ask because I'm becoming a bit perfection obsessed with my TT02: I see many people talk about putting a TT02 on a setup station, ensuring X degrees of front toe out, etc. Here's my knowledge gap - even with the upgraded steering and turnbuckles, upgraded rear uprights, etc... there is still so much slop, easily 1-2mm front and rear, that how can anyone actually setup this chassis with a real "XYZ"degrees of ANY adjustment?
When I drove my TT02 after the build it seemed to drift a tad to one side when pointed straight. Putting it on the setup-station I could see that the toe-out angle on the front wheels was not the same, the left side was out about 2 degree whereas the right side was about 3.5 degree. I get that there is a tiny bit of slop, but still when I set my toe in to be the same on each side the car no longer veered to one side when pointed straight (when tested). I have a tiny bit of slop, it is very minimal ...but like said, many Tamiya kits seem to have this and trying to remove that play doesn't seem to be a good thing.

not sure if that helps/answers your question totally, but w/ a setup station you can really see what is going on w/ any car. I love using mine and makes adjusting the car super quick/easy ...takes all the guess work out.
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Old 06-19-2016, 08:48 AM
  #985  
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hey, so I did a test the other day w/ shoe goo. It seemed to work just fine for me no weirdness on the paint. sorry, that I said shoe goo was bad w/ polycarbonate paint, i did have a bad experience a year or so ago and stayed away. Yet I am wondering if the paint was not fully dry when I first tried it? In any case it seems to work fine for me now. I did let the paint dry for an entire day and it was about 85* out.
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Old 06-19-2016, 01:22 PM
  #986  
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Nice
Yeah, maybe the colour needs 24h to fully dry out...
Good that it worked!
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Old 06-19-2016, 07:17 PM
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Don't forget chassis balance guys. That is one of the most over looked things to a setup of any type of car. You will want a 50/50 left to right with no more than a 60/40 front to back if not closer to 50/50. But 60/40 tends to work best in my opinion for acceleration reasons.
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Old 06-19-2016, 07:56 PM
  #988  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
When I drove my TT02 after the build it seemed to drift a tad to one side when pointed straight. Putting it on the setup-station I could see that the toe-out angle on the front wheels was not the same, the left side was out about 2 degree whereas the right side was about 3.5 degree. I get that there is a tiny bit of slop, but still when I set my toe in to be the same on each side the car no longer veered to one side when pointed straight (when tested). I have a tiny bit of slop, it is very minimal ...but like said, many Tamiya kits seem to have this and trying to remove that play doesn't seem to be a good thing.

not sure if that helps/answers your question totally, but w/ a setup station you can really see what is going on w/ any car. I love using mine and makes adjusting the car super quick/easy ...takes all the guess work out.
Personally I don't use setup stations due to said plays. There is and always has been a better way to go about these sorts of things in my opinion. That is to simply test drive the vehicle. There will always be some sort of variance that will need to be tuned at any giving track in any given weather environment. For example, what you said about the car drifting to one side or another can be fixed by something as simple as a trim adjustment. There is no golden rule to follow in the amount of anything needed such as toe. Not enough and your car will push through turns, to much and it will be overly snappy and or start breaking rear traction half way though a turn.
This is something that should be setup per outing, not set and forget like a setup station would subconsciously have you believe.
If you not running lathe trued foam tires, there will almost always be an indifference from tire to tire when it comes to contact patch. For example, if one tire has a slight offset on one of the sidewalls of foams, then it doesn't matter if your camber is set exactly the same from side to side, your actual contact patch will be different.
The tire it's self will take that balance right away and can only be tuned by feel and eye.
Then there is acceleration creep to be considered to. Seeing if a car is trimmed to drive strait down a line is only half of the attention it needs attended to.
Once you get your tracking right, then you need to adjust your spring pre-loads to achieve a hard acceleration alignment.
For example, if you gun the car from a stand still and it jumps one way or another, even if ever so subtle, (lets say right this time) then you need to tighten up the rear right spring with a bit more preload to get the pressures equalized from tire to tire.
Once you do this and your vehicle tracks straight, it is at this point your done with the trimming process.
Things like this mean nothing on paper vs actuality and be damned a setup table.
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Old 06-20-2016, 08:03 AM
  #989  
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Did I mention how impressed I am w this car for the price.

Handles really well!

Now just need to get the body done...waiting for some pant to arrive.

Last edited by eR1c; 06-20-2016 at 08:24 AM.
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Old 06-20-2016, 09:38 AM
  #990  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
When I drove my TT02 after the build it seemed to drift a tad to one side when pointed straight. Putting it on the setup-station I could see that the toe-out angle on the front wheels was not the same, the left side was out about 2 degree whereas the right side was about 3.5 degree. I get that there is a tiny bit of slop, but still when I set my toe in to be the same on each side the car no longer veered to one side when pointed straight (when tested). I have a tiny bit of slop, it is very minimal ...but like said, many Tamiya kits seem to have this and trying to remove that play doesn't seem to be a good thing.

not sure if that helps/answers your question totally, but w/ a setup station you can really see what is going on w/ any car. I love using mine and makes adjusting the car super quick/easy ...takes all the guess work out.
My point was, with so much slop in the car, how can a setup station give you accurate measurements? I can move my front wheels in and out (toe) at least a degree, just by nature of slop with the front end.
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