You pose a good point. I will have to consider this and ask them what the rule is on tires before I choose something.

I was looking through the Tamiya Championship Series rules and I don't see a class where this variation of the car could be competitive. I was thinking GT Pro spec, but the type s is not allowed there. Can anyone think of a TCS class where this car could be geared/motored competitively?

Tires must be a tamiya kit tire rather it be a slick radial Hal slick half radial an must be 26mm

Tires are not the problem. It is more of an issue of getting the gear ratio down into the 3.5 to 4.0 FDR for a brushless setup without using non-Tamiya parts which is not allowed according to TCS rules. Of course you can run a silver can 540J in the gt3 class and gearing won't be an issue, but you will need to run against others chassis with 21.5 brushless motors. There is no way a 540J motor is anywhere near the speed of a 21.5, a 25.5 maybe, but not a 21.5.

I managed a FDR of 4.35 without any mods. Assuming you do not have to use Tamiya Spur gears you can do this.

http://www.thercracer.com/2013/07/ho...inky-with.html

Thanks, but 4.35 is not going to be low enough for the track and motor I will be running. I had the motor I am going to use in another car and a FDR around 4.0 seemed to be about perfect for it. I am guessing I would need a YR motor mount to get that low? If so, it would not be allowed according to TCS rules.

BTW, I saw your site and you have some great info on it about the tt-02.

just bought a type S after the shops restocked it then i remembered my dilemma last time

type R has a 3degree toe in rear hubs as standard and type S only has a 2.5degree toe (as an aftermarket option) but the type S also has a 3degree toe in in the form of a steel suspension kit?

so if i used that suspension kit on the type S, would i get a 3 degree toe in, similar to the type R?


I bought the type S because i couldnt find it last time to i took the type R and now I am wondering if i should sell it or keep in/built it.

If you use the 54634 rear steel mount it will increase the Type S rear toe by 0.5 degree to give 3 degrees. The main point of that mount though is to allow you to fit the rebound stoppers which then allow use of the droop screws. I fitted this to my Type S but IMHO it made the car much worse to drive as limiting droop caused the rear end to break away off power into corners. So any advantage the extra .5 degree toe gave was wasted. My Type S is lovely to drive on standard settings. I just hopped up other parts instead.

so the steel part only gives an additional 0.5deg?

the description is quite misleading "Rear plate gives a setup with 3 degrees of toe-in for excellent stability. "

Anyone using the 54574 aluminum steering links, and if so, how do the attach? Is there a nut to hold them under the chassis? My existing tub is stripping out after only two nights of racing.

The hop up TT02-S steel rear plate gives you 3 degrees of rear toe-in.

The TT02-S has 2.5 degrees of toe in with the rear plate that is included.

A std TT02 has 0 degrees of toe in. Unless you buy the hop-up rear hubs (they give you toe in at the rear of 2.5 degrees) or if you buy the TT02-S hop up suspension set which gives you 3 degrees.

As a side note, the hop-up suspension set also allows you to add droop limiters to your TT02-S which makes things easier.

Sorry no, they just replace the plastic part, there is no nut to go under the chassis. How have you damaged that part of the chassis? You didnt use threadlock on the parts or an electric screw driver?

No, I took a big hit and snagged the wheel. It pulled the screw most of the way out.

Ouch!

Luckily the replacement chassis are very cheap, it's just a pain taking it all out

Been there, done that. In my case I used the low friction hop up screw and it sheared the top clean off leaving the thread in the chassis.

Here's my TT-02D Type S that I race at the local Tamiya Series. Handles great, although it's not quite as nimble or quick to react compared to my TA05v2 that has the same servo and motor/esc combo. Any ideas on how to make it quicker to respond to steering inputs?