Granpa

No, the TC shock bodies are 2mm longer. You just add an extra 2mm spacer under the piston to compensate. They'd work best on lower grip situations where the springing is softer and you're promoting a little chassis roll to optimize grip.

[QUOTE=sakadachi;13948995]Hi Granpa

Considering my car is setup pretty low, I bet I am only using no more than 30-40% of the total stroke of the CVA SuperMini's. That said, the extra oil available with the big boars in that same 30-40% travel would benefit..?

I doubt that you're using that much travel. For your present set up, there probably wouldn't be any noticeable benefit except for the most sensitive of driving talents. Not demeaning your driving, but only a few people would be capable of noticing. And, there might not be any difference at all. Too little and too quick of shock movement.

No need to be confused. Just think of all that happens when you move the piston up and down. If you do that, all becomes clear.

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Wow grandpa tell us how you really feel.

Torg- Please let me know if we can fit a smaller pinion in the M-Four? 380's burning up after 7min..

Granpa

No offense intended in my last post. I thought I was just stating the obvious.

It takes a lot of time and effort to explain why the simple shocks we use do what they do, but it's a relatively simple thing to figure out. Oil gets displaced as the piston moves up, the bladder gets deformed, air gets compressed above the bladder. Once you get the above sequence you'll understand when to use the red sponge above the bladder, what effect rebound has, etc. Can you imagine what the Formula 1 shock guys go thru?????

OSherman

iTrader: (3)

any insight as to standing a shock up vs laying a shock down on the rear of a mini? what performance differences should one expect?

torg

What size pinion and spur do you have now?

I have 64T Spur and 16T pinion, but that's on a Novak Three-80 13.5.

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Granpa- No offense taken, I am just kidding around. I know what you mean, there are other variables that can affect such minuscule difference in oil volume. But rather spending money on boring parts I prefer to spend a little more and get the next cool thing in my arsenal.


torg- Nice ride! I am running the 18t pinion that came with the kit. I think I am going to change out to 16t when I run the Tamiya Sport-tuned 380 next. I was worried I would destroy the Sport-tuned motor so started with the basic 380 to get a sense of this thing.

torg

When talking about touring car shocks, there is also the TRF short shocks

So we have (at least):
big bore regular
regular
short
mini
big bore mini

1, 2, 3 hole normal and tapered pistons, many different o-rings, x-rings, rod guides, bladders, sponges, oils etc

enough variables for me to really screw up This is why I always build it to kit first, then get some advice from more experienced drivers.

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

That's definitely the approach I take too.


BTW, torg- how are your belts holding up on your M-Four?

I placed $50 of spare orders today for the M-Four. Typical replacement parts just in case I crash real bad. lol Also placed order for the 16t and 17t pinions.

Granpa

A seemingly innocent inquiry by one of the premier Mini pilots in the country. But, not really so, cause the M05, reacts rather oddly to changing shock positions. You would think that laying a shock over would soften the shock action, but it doesn't seem to react that way on the 05 on the front. Oddly the stock position seemed to drive as if it were the stiffest even though it is the most layer over. For the shocks, oils and springs being used at that time, the car itself reacted best in the second hole on the option shock tower.

I had just started to play with the new rear shock tower and using the M06 hinge pin. This as you know gives you a much wider shock position, but requires a longer shock. This combo gave me one of the most stable, locked down Minis, I have ever driven. Unfortunately, I never could run a good lap time with it. Then I got sick.

To your ????, I don't know cause for me, the 05 never reacted in a predictable fashion. I finally had to go to the let's try this and see what the heck happens. By the way, nice going at the Regional here. I heard you were TQ, but had to leave before the Mains.

torg

still using original ones, but I have a spare set for the future.

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info, torg!

I suppose next time I will put that on my to-buy list.



Ordered up a low capacity dual Dynamite charger to charge these tiny 2S Lipo's for my M-Four. Will let my son use it too to charge his NiMH.

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

torg- BTW, on the M-Four, when I screwed on the rear belt tensioner the rear belt was rubbing against the tensioner's post so I trimmed like 1.5mm off of the post to allow the belt to center onto the two small tensioner bearings. (not talking about the bulk head covers).

Did you encounter this problem on your kit? Not a big deal, but that was the only design problem I encountered while building this kit.

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Tried my new nanotech 2S for 1/16th on my M-four.
Slightly more capacity/power than the ones I got but not by much. I like that I can fit both types in my chassis no problem.

Also made my old side by side conditioner into a MFour stand with fan blowing at the motor to cool. Works great too!

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Hey guys, just got my replacement diff case in for the 3Racing gear diff. It's the ver.2 with the plastic, rather than the aluminum cover. Was this ever released as an M chassis part, or was it supposed to be just for the Sakura FF? The reason I'm asking is it's a part that's not showing up on the 3Racing site. I guess what I'm wondering is if one is superior to the other. Really hate leaky gear diffs!

Edit: Nevermind. The plastic cover is different from the alloy one. If I had another one of the blue spacers, like the one on the other side of the case, it would be close. Alloy wins! Just hope it leaks less with new seals.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

I have a question about the m05 v2 lower arms, these:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product_view.asp?p_id=9523

I am in the process of converting my m05 to m05v2. I ordered the v2 lower arms, but not sure they'll make it in time for my next race. Are they different than the m05 arms? I see you can adjust droop, but is there any other difference in terms of size or angle or fit? Wondering if it will make a difference performance wise to run the m05 v1 arms on my m05 v2 chassis?