Im not quite following how this is happening. The way i set mine up is by adjusting the wheels to be straight or just a hair of toe out with the servo tie rod disconnected. When doing this, i make sure both turnbuckles are even lengths. If 1 is off, i will back one off slightly and tighten the long one. Once this is set, i the connect the turnbuckle to the servo horn. Then i place it on the spline gear of the servo and center it as best as i can and adjust the sub trim in my radio to make it dead balls. Once this is good, i then set my end points in my radio to give me just enough steering throw to get to full lock without having any wheel chatter. Hope this helps buddy.

Just realized i said servo tie rod connected, i mean disconnected. I just fixed that.

Just awesome. Todays race cancelled from the rain and tommorows race at the only other local track was called off from the rain today. This sucks. I am dying to run my car.

Okay guys and girls, if you're thinking about getting a Tekno EB48.2 stop thinking and go buy it. I wish I had made the switch sooner. Today was my first day with the buggy (I was driving a MBX7E) and I followed the manual minus using K springs/pistons, +1 front hub and I reduced the rear toe from 4. 3.0, set the rear droop to 119 and it was dialed. Tomorrow is race day, but I can tell you with only 3 battery packs through the buggy today it was soooo good. This buggy fly's like no other (we have a 32' triple) and it goes through the chicane like an on-road car. Easy/fun to drive and very stable.

Stop waiting and pick up one today. I let my buddy drive it and all he said was, "damn, it feels good."

Mark

yeah, that threw me off reading it! I read it 3 times!
then noticed when I scrolled down I saw your correction!
still boggles my mind I never had this problem!
gonna start over tomorrow! it was good, I just changed out my servo today
and now this!
im gonna zero again everything! measure with my tie rods with my calipers
ill try 1 degree toe out ( I usually do dead even) then sub trim then end points
do you have steering mod? do you use wider front hubs?
thanks again!

I'm not sure what you mean by "a little off", the servo horn itself? Or something else?
Check out page 24 in the manual, the servo is not supposed to be straight out to the side, it has a little angle to it.

No steering mods. Servos do vary. The location of the spline gear coming out of the servo are not all in the same spot with different brand servos. In 1/12 scale pan cars, there is no steering rack and the steering turnbuckles mount direct to a spring loaded servo saver that is also your servo horn. All the cars have slotted servo mounting holes in the chassis for this reason. The spline gear location varies up to about a 1/4 inch between different brands.

I will go shoot a pic of mine now for you to see how i did mine. It will not matter if you have zero toe or 1 degree toe out. It will never change.

...

For some reason, i cant upload my pic.hmm, keeps telling me upload failed.

I have 3 teknos
and severaql other cars!
i just cant get the eb48.2 exactly right and its killing me!

It's dead easy to setup. Something must be upside-down, backwards or inside-out if it doesn't work.

Can you put some pics up?

Well i am the new proud owner of an eb48. I originally had an rc8be that i bought used off of one of my fellow racers and than another individual during racing yesterday said that he would like to trade me. He said the car was to twitchy for him. he is a little off the beatin path which might account for his decision. anyways i have neglected to look at this thread but i have a sct410 and i am pretty much up to date on that thread. What is the common setup for diffs? i run 10 10 3 in my sct and i like it but idk if it carries over. also the parts needed to make it a eb48.2 are the diff case, the rear toe block, the lightened outdrives, and the hd arms. am i missing anything? thanks

it was a defective brand new servo! changed it out and bam, that was it!

Hey guys this weekend was my first outing with the EB48.2 Big thanks to Matthew and team for the outstanding support and getting me everything I needed to run this weekend. I start off with the base setup minus a few things. I ran K 1.3x8 pistons and K light blue front springs and K Orange in the rear with 40/30 shock oil. I also changed the sway bars. In the front I ran 2.2 and the rear I ran 2.4 and added +1 front hub. The .2 was built other wise to the kit settings. I ran 3 packs through it Saturday after I was done with the build and I was faster then with my previous car. The build was spot on and this buggy fly's so good it isn't funny. The kit came with the rear 1.5 toe block and I had a total of 4 degree which for me it was to much. I then changed out the insert so that I'd have only 3 degrees of rear toe and the buggy felt great.

Sunday was race day and I was able to watch other cars and noticed that I had to much rear body roll when going to through the chicane and notice on exit of a small sweeper that the rear rolled to much breaking some traction. After round 1 I changed the shock oil in the rear to 32.5 and the car felt better. In round 3 I made to changes. I went to 35wt rear oil and was able to get a few practice laps before A1 and it felt great. I wanted to try some front arm sweep and manged to add it before A1 as well. I'm glad I made that change. The tone went off for A1 and I quickly grabbed the lead and lead the entire race putting a lap on the field. In A2 I made no changes but I should put some fresh rubber on as my tires were pretty worn. Overall the buggy responded to every change and you could feel it. Here is the setup I ended up with. My buggy was nimble, fast and easy to drive. I hope this helps.

I think for the next run I will try the 2.5 or 2.6 rear bar.

Mark

Anyone know where you would use the tkr1230 shims on the eb48.2!!