2LikesTekno RC EB48 Thread
11-04-2013 | 03:11 AM
#9751
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 410
From: North East Ohio
I think those used to go into the diff cup, behind the pinion in....actually i just looked at my books from EB48, 48.2. I don't even see it in the spare parts section. It should go behind the pinion, only so many thing are 6mm on this buggy. Most likely a part number to get the shims alone....I would guess
11-04-2013 | 03:14 AM
#9752
Hey guys this weekend was my first outing with the EB48.2 Big thanks to Matthew and team for the outstanding support and getting me everything I needed to run this weekend. I start off with the base setup minus a few things. I ran K 1.3x8 pistons and K light blue front springs and K Orange in the rear with 40/30 shock oil. I also changed the sway bars. In the front I ran 2.2 and the rear I ran 2.4 and added +1 front hub. The .2 was built other wise to the kit settings. I ran 3 packs through it Saturday after I was done with the build and I was faster then with my previous car. The build was spot on and this buggy fly's so good it isn't funny. The kit came with the rear 1.5 toe block and I had a total of 4 degree which for me it was to much. I then changed out the insert so that I'd have only 3 degrees of rear toe and the buggy felt great.
Sunday was race day and I was able to watch other cars and noticed that I had to much rear body roll when going to through the chicane and notice on exit of a small sweeper that the rear rolled to much breaking some traction. After round 1 I changed the shock oil in the rear to 32.5 and the car felt better. In round 3 I made to changes. I went to 35wt rear oil and was able to get a few practice laps before A1 and it felt great. I wanted to try some front arm sweep and manged to add it before A1 as well. I'm glad I made that change. The tone went off for A1 and I quickly grabbed the lead and lead the entire race putting a lap on the field. In A2 I made no changes but I should put some fresh rubber on as my tires were pretty worn. Overall the buggy responded to every change and you could feel it. Here is the setup I ended up with. My buggy was nimble, fast and easy to drive. I hope this helps.
I think for the next run I will try the 2.5 or 2.6 rear bar.
Mark
Sunday was race day and I was able to watch other cars and noticed that I had to much rear body roll when going to through the chicane and notice on exit of a small sweeper that the rear rolled to much breaking some traction. After round 1 I changed the shock oil in the rear to 32.5 and the car felt better. In round 3 I made to changes. I went to 35wt rear oil and was able to get a few practice laps before A1 and it felt great. I wanted to try some front arm sweep and manged to add it before A1 as well. I'm glad I made that change. The tone went off for A1 and I quickly grabbed the lead and lead the entire race putting a lap on the field. In A2 I made no changes but I should put some fresh rubber on as my tires were pretty worn. Overall the buggy responded to every change and you could feel it. Here is the setup I ended up with. My buggy was nimble, fast and easy to drive. I hope this helps.
I think for the next run I will try the 2.5 or 2.6 rear bar.
Mark
Its weird right, that is what i was saying over the phone. The car rolls more in the rear. Im trying out lowering the camber link on the tower to raise the roll center in the rear. I want to try reducing the roll without thickening the oil. I will let you know how it goes. I wanted to try it this weekend but both races were cancelled. So, lucky me got stuck at IKEA all day with the wife. Yeah, much rather would have hit the track and run. I think that is the closest to suicide i have ever been.
11-04-2013 | 04:06 AM
#9753
Tech Adept
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 205
I think those used to go into the diff cup, behind the pinion in....actually i just looked at my books from EB48, 48.2. I don't even see it in the spare parts section. It should go behind the pinion, only so many thing are 6mm on this buggy. Most likely a part number to get the shims alone....I would guess
11-04-2013 | 05:57 AM
#9754
Well i am the new proud owner of an eb48. I originally had an rc8be that i bought used off of one of my fellow racers and than another individual during racing yesterday said that he would like to trade me. He said the car was to twitchy for him. he is a little off the beatin path which might account for his decision. anyways i have neglected to look at this thread but i have a sct410 and i am pretty much up to date on that thread. What is the common setup for diffs? i run 10 10 3 in my sct and i like it but idk if it carries over. also the parts needed to make it a eb48.2 are the diff case, the rear toe block, the lightened outdrives, and the hd arms. am i missing anything? thanks
The description on Tekno's site has all of the updates in there.
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5002-...etition-buggy/
11-04-2013 | 06:44 AM
#9755
Here is a video of my EB48.2 in our first round of 1/8 winter series.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-nKxB-dGw4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-nKxB-dGw4
Last edited by egobrkr; 11-04-2013 at 07:58 AM.
11-04-2013 | 06:54 AM
#9756
Hey mark,
Its weird right, that is what i was saying over the phone. The car rolls more in the rear. Im trying out lowering the camber link on the tower to raise the roll center in the rear. I want to try reducing the roll without thickening the oil. I will let you know how it goes. I wanted to try it this weekend but both races were cancelled. So, lucky me got stuck at IKEA all day with the wife. Yeah, much rather would have hit the track and run. I think that is the closest to suicide i have ever been.
Its weird right, that is what i was saying over the phone. The car rolls more in the rear. Im trying out lowering the camber link on the tower to raise the roll center in the rear. I want to try reducing the roll without thickening the oil. I will let you know how it goes. I wanted to try it this weekend but both races were cancelled. So, lucky me got stuck at IKEA all day with the wife. Yeah, much rather would have hit the track and run. I think that is the closest to suicide i have ever been.
drive away!
11-04-2013 | 07:29 AM
#9757
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,546
From: Northern VA
Jason,
You crack me up. I've know how you feel though.
The car was a dream to drive. It felt like driving the old 12 scale or 8th scale on-road. Where you put the buggy is where it went.
Keep me in the loop on the rear roll. The buggy felt great and responded well to each change that I made. It's nice to make a change to the buggy and feel it.
Mark
You crack me up. I've know how you feel though.
The car was a dream to drive. It felt like driving the old 12 scale or 8th scale on-road. Where you put the buggy is where it went.
Keep me in the loop on the rear roll. The buggy felt great and responded well to each change that I made. It's nice to make a change to the buggy and feel it.
Mark
11-04-2013 | 09:18 AM
#9759
You may be over tightening the screws if your center diff is rubbing, that should not be happening unless they are over tightened.
11-04-2013 | 10:13 AM
#9760
I think those used to go into the diff cup, behind the pinion in....actually i just looked at my books from EB48, 48.2. I don't even see it in the spare parts section. It should go behind the pinion, only so many thing are 6mm on this buggy. Most likely a part number to get the shims alone....I would guess
The EB48 and the SCT410 use TKR1226 behind the pinion. The EB48.2 (or any kit with the new straight cut diff gears) does not need TKR1226 behind the pinion.
11-04-2013 | 10:42 AM
#9761
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 157
From: Belgium
just take a scalpel and scrape away the molding leftover and the rubbing sound should be gone
I have tightened all completely, I don't see how that can cause rubbing
11-04-2013 | 11:51 AM
#9762
Man, that sucks! An all day IKEA shopping trip! You cant get out of those places! The guys maze of death! I'm with you, I'd rather rake leaves ALL DAY than be stuck in Ikea, UNLESS if there were no one inside and you had your touring car and a stand with video monitor to help you see the whole layout!
drive away!
drive away!
That would have made the trip alot better.
11-04-2013 | 11:55 AM
#9763
Jason,
You crack me up. I've know how you feel though.
The car was a dream to drive. It felt like driving the old 12 scale or 8th scale on-road. Where you put the buggy is where it went.
Keep me in the loop on the rear roll. The buggy felt great and responded well to each change that I made. It's nice to make a change to the buggy and feel it.
Mark
You crack me up. I've know how you feel though.
The car was a dream to drive. It felt like driving the old 12 scale or 8th scale on-road. Where you put the buggy is where it went.
Keep me in the loop on the rear roll. The buggy felt great and responded well to each change that I made. It's nice to make a change to the buggy and feel it.
Mark
11-04-2013 | 11:59 AM
#9764
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 367
so tomorrow im ordering the tekno, just want a last OK on the cart.
the kit,
tekin rx8 with the 2050kv motor,
savox 1258.
parts:
from and rear arms,
spur gear,
inner hinge pins,
front shock shaft,
CVD's,
AE droop screws,
DE racing skid plate.
any other part i may need? really dont want to get stuck...
any build tips? mods?
doe's the diffs still need a brake-in?
thanks!
the kit,
tekin rx8 with the 2050kv motor,
savox 1258.
parts:
from and rear arms,
spur gear,
inner hinge pins,
front shock shaft,
CVD's,
AE droop screws,
DE racing skid plate.
any other part i may need? really dont want to get stuck...
any build tips? mods?
doe's the diffs still need a brake-in?
thanks!