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Old 10-09-2013 | 01:21 PM
  #10306  
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Has anyone tried that new MIP 17.5 Pucks Drive System yet? I run my 17.5 buggy blinky in the local expert mod buggy class since the local 17.5 class is dead and in order to keep up, Ive done everything I can think of to make the drive train lighter and quicker (alum. top shaft, alum. pinion, triad, ceramic bearings, shaved diff gear and idler) but the price of the MIP kit is making me think twice. I just wanted to see if anyone is running it and if they like it and if it really makes a difference in terms of acceleration and deceleration.
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Old 10-09-2013 | 01:35 PM
  #10307  
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Originally Posted by khartlauer
Has anyone tried that new MIP 17.5 Pucks Drive System yet? I run my 17.5 buggy blinky in the local expert mod buggy class since the local 17.5 class is dead and in order to keep up, Ive done everything I can think of to make the drive train lighter and quicker (alum. top shaft, alum. pinion, triad, ceramic bearings, shaved diff gear and idler) but the price of the MIP kit is making me think twice. I just wanted to see if anyone is running it and if they like it and if it really makes a difference in terms of acceleration and deceleration.
It's going to help a very small amount but not as much as getting a mod motor. Save the rabbit hole your about to head down and get the motor and be done with it.
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Old 10-09-2013 | 01:36 PM
  #10308  
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why not get a mod motor?
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Old 10-09-2013 | 01:36 PM
  #10309  
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Originally Posted by wallnutz684
How is the grip on the indoor track?
MUCH higher and more consistent than the outdoor track. Surface is also much smoother and the jumps are more consistent across the face as well (made of wood).
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Old 10-09-2013 | 01:45 PM
  #10310  
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Originally Posted by cobra408
why not get a mod motor?
cause I love racing 17.5 class and I love the feel of them. Plus i love seeing people's faces when I run faster laps and beat their 8.5 motored car with a stock motored car lol no, im kidding. Im just one of those guys that has run mod motors in the past and i just dont enjoy running them so I run the stock motor. They are just smoother to me and I love the way they run. Plus I like running two classes with the same vehicle. makes those LONG race days not so darn boring!
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Old 10-09-2013 | 02:04 PM
  #10311  
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how about boost and timing? no need to keep it blinky in mod. this is free (besides pinions) and very effictive
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Old 10-09-2013 | 02:04 PM
  #10312  
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anybody ever snap the cvd pin?

I was looking at mine since I thought my motor slid in the a main on Saturday but actually the cvd pin broke and the cvd is gone.
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Old 10-09-2013 | 02:13 PM
  #10313  
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore
how about boost and timing? no need to keep it blinky in mod. this is free (besides pinions) and very effictive
I run spec esc's in both my 17.5 vehicles so no boost for me. I shoot the motor timing through the roof though. I run my vulcan at about where the "50" mark would be if there was one. All that aluminum and ceramic stuff in the transmission makes it where the motor is literally 100 degrees after a 5 min run with a 78/29 gearing. I have it absolutely dialed. thats why im really hesitant to switch to mod motor cause Id have to change a lot of stuff or I'll ruin all of it.
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Old 10-09-2013 | 02:18 PM
  #10314  
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Originally Posted by silveraider14
anybody ever snap the cvd pin?

I was looking at mine since I thought my motor slid in the a main on Saturday but actually the cvd pin broke and the cvd is gone.
Ive done it, the cva's need an occasion rebuild every now and then. and eventually the slop will force you to replace them all together. in my sc10, the cva's are super worn down that they are next on my to do list. the cva pegs that slot into the outdrives are not round anymore, almost completely flat on both sides of the pegs, the slot on the hub where you slide the pin through is notched. you can turn the wheel almost an 1/8th before it engages the transmission lol
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Old 10-09-2013 | 02:36 PM
  #10315  
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Originally Posted by khartlauer
cause I love racing 17.5 class and I love the feel of them. Plus i love seeing people's faces when I run faster laps and beat their 8.5 motored car with a stock motored car lol no, im kidding. Im just one of those guys that has run mod motors in the past and i just dont enjoy running them so I run the stock motor. They are just smoother to me and I love the way they run. Plus I like running two classes with the same vehicle. makes those LONG race days not so darn boring!
Run boost for your mod main and turn off boost for the stock main. Boosted 17.5 can hang but it's still a 17.5 and not the same as a mod motor. Depending on track layout I can run boosted 17.5 at the same lap pace as I do with a mod motor unless there is a big tripple that the boosted 17.5 won't clear.
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Old 10-09-2013 | 02:37 PM
  #10316  
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Originally Posted by chevmaro
Run boost for your mod main and turn off boost for the stock main. Boosted 17.5 can hang but it's still a 17.5 and not the same as a mod motor. Depending on track layout I can run boosted 17.5 at the same lap pace as I do with a mod motor unless there is a big tripple that the boosted 17.5 won't clear.
I currently have a spec esc so i cant run boost. and our current layout is tight turns and not too many big jumps so 17.5 is perfect for it right now, the low end control is awesome.
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Old 10-09-2013 | 04:10 PM
  #10317  
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when i 1st bought my reedy sonic 17.5(NOT mach 2) it ran at maybe 110* now after a year it runs at 140-150* why is this?? Geared 69/35. High traction, slick tires
i noticed a power drop when it heats up as well. Also what can you do in the transmission to lighten it. I know this was answered in the past but i cant find it???
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Old 10-09-2013 | 04:25 PM
  #10318  
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I just installed the AE FT shelf and my car weighs (with full size lipo) 1550g! How much weight can I cut by using the mip topshaft? My cars a pig compared to you guys....
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Old 10-09-2013 | 04:41 PM
  #10319  
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Originally Posted by Goodesta
when i 1st bought my reedy sonic 17.5(NOT mach 2) it ran at maybe 110* now after a year it runs at 140-150* why is this?? Geared 69/35. High traction, slick tires
i noticed a power drop when it heats up as well. Also what can you do in the transmission to lighten it. I know this was answered in the past but i cant find it???
Clean out your motor, flush the bearings and lube. Your rotor is probably getting weaker too which is why you're seeing higher temps.

Avid Topshaft (lighter than the MIP)
Avid Triad Slipper
MIP 17.5 Lite Kit (aluminum driveshafts and outdrives)

Originally Posted by PIIHB!
I just installed the AE FT shelf and my car weighs (with full size lipo) 1550g! How much weight can I cut by using the mip topshaft? My cars a pig compared to you guys....
1550g isn't that bad. You could go to a short pack and add the weight back where you need it to make legal.

The Avid topshaft, both the long and standard, are lighter than the MIP shaft. I don't remember what the standard Avid topshaft weighs, but I have a MIP topshaft and Avid long topshaft right here. The Avid is 4.1g and the MIP is 4.2g. Not much, but the standard Avid is going to be lighter than both.
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Old 10-09-2013 | 04:49 PM
  #10320  
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Originally Posted by PIIHB!
I just installed the AE FT shelf and my car weighs (with full size lipo) 1550g! How much weight can I cut by using the mip topshaft? My cars a pig compared to you guys....
Hideeho
You'll only drop a few grams with the mip or avid top shaft. The big deal is it is rotating mass which affects acceleration as though it were several times more removed.

Your car is not a pig. Change to a shorty & you'll drop 100g+/- instantly & be right in the ball park with the light cars posted.
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