you ever use a pair of shock pliers? OMG, if you do you'll never want to do the towel/rag trick again!

Considering we all need to be changing o-rings each week it's a must have item!


The whole o-ring debate....I can feel the difference, by hand. On the track..maybe maybe not but the placebo effect is priceless Either way they cost 2 bucks to replace, half of us burn off a $15 set of tires in one day, what's 2 bucks.?

I change my O-Rings after every heat!

But seriously, they are cheap! IMHO a MUST HAVE!

Anyone else have a lot of slop in the front steering blocks?? My rear hubs aren't too bad, but the front blocks are terrible. I thought about trying to shim them, anyone else tried this??

The big bores shaft is slightly smaller, which I think accounts for less stiction after they swell up -- there is room for them to grow! Not saying it isn't there, but the stiction is night and day less than what I experienced with v2's and Losi XXX shocks.

i got a suggestion from the local fast guy to move my front shocks inward on the arm, it just made the car feel more balanced, ill do a set up sheet when i have some more time

I shim all my kits. Use motor shims or the kyosho shim kit comes with .01, .02, .03 size. The steel hat bushings in the steering arms can be shimmed as well with old axle shims.

i never liked shimming, always causes bind somewhere, you should just be replacing your blocks...

factory team 2 hole are alot better....not perfect, but better.

I use angle cutters for shock pliers but not the cutting end. I grab the shock shaft with the inside of the pliers where the handles meat. Its smooth and flat and works great. I have yet to scratch a shock shaft.

I have some TLR shock shaft pliers but I mostly use needle nose. They won't scractch if you dont let them slip. Squeeze tight.

my "shock pliers" are regular needle nose with shrink tube over each side lol

Car is brand new, never run, I'm still finishing the build. That's why the slop caught my attention. I may try shims to see what happens. I could replace the blocks but I expect they will be the same way. When you say two hole are you referring to the mounts where the camber link attaches? Maybe I will check it out.

yes, everyone knows the factory team 2 hole 30deg caster blocks are machined not molded, making them have alot less play.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-RC10B4-T4-GT

I have the TLR pliers. Work great will never go back to squeezing as hard as I can.

I use a very thin motor shim on the bottom of the steering block.
2 hole 30 degree caster block, kit spacer for the arm .
Carbon arm

Plastic front arm brace

rear hub I use 1mm blue spacers both sides .

2 grub screws on each rear hub
carbon arm

Yeh shims, jconcepts carbon steering rack, and RPM ball cups clean that up for me