i dont know yet. pretty much room for the receiver and transponder: i could put it on the servo or on the sites, but the esc is too big. most likely i will put it on the battery strap (if i am going to use one) or in front of the battery if using shorty packs. I don't know how wide i can make the chassis by now because i want to use the centro finnisher body, but a nice guy here will send me his old C4 chassis soon.

That is the issue I have with these alum conversion cars. Where to put the electronics. If you run a full sized pack, this becomes a problem. I liked the rb6, but the esc location was a real pain for me. It was buried in the RM config. I did however like the channels they put in for a clean wiring job. But because of the esc location, running a full pack could be a pain. With the current trend, shorties might become the goto for stock or mod in these new cars. AE will probably make a buggy with an alum chassis, but I am on the fence with that. makes the car heavy. I know a lot of local struggles with the alum chassis in 17.5. Mostly because the track were designed with 13.5 in mind for the jumps. Thus, 17.5 would often case the jumps. If the track were designed with 17.5 in mind, it might be better.

I have had a few u braces break when running the shaved u brace with spacers to run the a outside hubs... 8 scale size tracks with a lot less plastic when you shim it up 3mm.

Does anyone know of a longer ball stud that would work for the rear ubrace then the stock ones?

Thanks!

your shaving a brace and adding 3mm of washers? I would just use a non shaved ubrace with 1x shim.

I race on a bunch of different tracks... I was looking for an easy way to switch back and forth.

Some I like the A hubs others I like the C hubs.

well, I would change the ubrace for the tracks or get an alum brace and use TI studs with the wide washers. You could also try the wide washers and put a nut on the bottom with a long ball stud to support it more. The ubrace it not too hard to swap out, I would just use 2 of them or just get the alum brace.

These should do the trick ...

TLR 10mm ball stud

are these metric threaded and fit the standard ballcups? (m3 or m2.5?)

Cody , Fit depends of the brand ball cups you use , same size thread as the Ae , just longer ...

I'm in the same exact boat. just this weekend I qual'd second in the A-main and was in the lead when I ripped the stud out of the u-brace (running 3mm shims) 90% of the time I run on indoor track with shaved brace and no washers...this weekend was running a charity outdoor race with no spare u-brace and no hobby shops close by so just ran it, and it bit me.

I have my esc in the back of the battery tray on my sc10b.2 (car in question) and it's a 20 minute job to swap braces (if I have one available) would be nice if there was a way to run both config's on the same brace. I'm real close to pulling the trigger on alum brace with Ti studs....seems like thats the only way to use 1 brace for 2 configs.

I'm running these. They are longer than those Losi ball studs:



http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...all-Stud-Set-2

WC, how did that new graphite rack work for ya?

Just about to order one.

I put my speedo on the shelf, transponder, reciver, and cap is all underneath the shelf. My car got a wicked oversteer, high speed mainly. Its fast, but hard to drive.

Does the additonal 40 grams behind the battery, you added help this?

Thanks, Krom.

krom

very happy with the Vision-Racing steering rack , the precision machined bushings fit way better then factory . No slop , zero ....

And you can fine tune steering with 2 extra ball stud locations .


I just ordered a couple glue tip from , very cool stainless steel tips ...
Finally can glue a tire like a pro ...


additional ballast weight in the rear tray adds stability & traction ...

zero weight brings better jumping & landings , more reactive steering

My local indoor track is clay and there's so much traction it's stupid. All you run are slicks. With that said, I've run the Durango and Schumacher in mid-motor form and it's a joke. They can't even come close to times you can pull off with standard rear-motor cars. They turn great but there's not enough rear traction.

I'm not getting how any mid-motor is going to be competitive even with relatively advanced driving skills if you're driving on dirt. I can see it on carpet or euro-style indoor tracks (or if you're one of the top 10 drivers in the world), but not anywhere else.

Do you guys have any steering issues running a 3mm shim on the inner ballstud? Which hub are you running?