Tekno RC EB48 Thread
#8386
Tech Regular
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 437
From: Pennsylvania
I think that it is a pretty serious issue that tekno should look at. The shocks are way too inconsistent. I hope that the problem is just the guides but I don't know. I hate to make comparisons but when I ran mugen I could build the shocks and they stayed the same until I changed them. Tekno shocks work for a few races at best then the car starts to feel different. I had the same issue with my associated truggy. So I tore the shocks off and I have been running mugen shocks on it for a year now. It's perfect. I also have an xray that is just as consistent. Why would I pay 75 bucks for tekno shocks when I can get mugen or xray shocks cheaper. I am curious to see the feedback on the new guides. I asked a friend of mine that runs for tekno and he rebuilds his shocks ALOT. To me that is a waste of time. Shocks are one of the most expensive parts on the car. They should be more reliable. I still love the car but the shocks do raise questions with me. If I am running multiple classes and also taking care of my sons car it just isn't good to have to rebuild shocks all the time.
#8387
I think that it is a pretty serious issue that tekno should look at. The shocks are way too inconsistent. I hope that the problem is just the guides but I don't know. I hate to make comparisons but when I ran mugen I could build the shocks and they stayed the same until I changed them. Tekno shocks work for a few races at best then the car starts to feel different. I had the same issue with my associated truggy. So I tore the shocks off and I have been running mugen shocks on it for a year now. It's perfect. I also have an xray that is just as consistent. Why would I pay 75 bucks for tekno shocks when I can get mugen or xray shocks cheaper. I am curious to see the feedback on the new guides. I asked a friend of mine that runs for tekno and he rebuilds his shocks ALOT. To me that is a waste of time. Shocks are one of the most expensive parts on the car. They should be more reliable. I still love the car but the shocks do raise questions with me. If I am running multiple classes and also taking care of my sons car it just isn't good to have to rebuild shocks all the time.
#8388
Tech Regular
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 437
From: Pennsylvania
Could you be more specific about the inconsistencies? We've spent a lot of time and money trying to perfect our shocks and we're quite happy with where they are right now. For example, I rebuilt Austin's shocks before practice at the recent ROAR 1/8th ENats. We ran them the whole weekend without touching them. They were as smooth after A3 as they were for the first practice run. No air, no leaks, super smooth, etc.
#8389
well it seems that you build them they aren't too bad but then after a few races they seem to change. I will have the car looking good one day and the next raceday the car seems to be bouncing all over the place. the shocks seem to loose some "pack". I tried two different types of csi pistons, stock pistons, different spring combinations and nothing seems to work. for example. if I build my mugen shocks with 20mm of rebound I can race all weekend and they will be the same after the weekend. I build my tekno shocks with no rebound but after the weekend the car is sitting lower, harder, handles like a brick. now I took the shocks apart after maybe a dozen runs since I bought it and the shock shaft guides in the shocks are all destroyed and the shafts are "hanging". In two years with my old shocks I never had to replace those once. No disrespect here..it is an amazing car. xray had issues with the 808e shocks as well. I just think that I spend twice as much time with shocks tan I ever have before. I have been running rc cars since the Mrc Tamiya Hornet so I am not a "rookie" . Maybe post a video of you building the shocks?
#8390
I've done some more testing with the CSI Blue V-Ports and I'm getting better results. Feels great on the bench. 12" drop, no bottoming out, but it feels really soft.
25wt AE Front with Yellow Springs / 20wt AE Rear with Orange Springs. Buggy is really good in the bumps and jumps. It also rebounds very quickly, faster than the my 8 X 1.3's with the same pack feeling.
I'm going to test it with a one rate drop in springs front and rear this weekend. The buggy has never felt so good.
25wt AE Front with Yellow Springs / 20wt AE Rear with Orange Springs. Buggy is really good in the bumps and jumps. It also rebounds very quickly, faster than the my 8 X 1.3's with the same pack feeling.
I'm going to test it with a one rate drop in springs front and rear this weekend. The buggy has never felt so good.
27.5 rear k orange spring
with the CSI blue.
#8391
well it seems that you build them they aren't too bad but then after a few races they seem to change. I will have the car looking good one day and the next raceday the car seems to be bouncing all over the place. the shocks seem to loose some "pack". I tried two different types of csi pistons, stock pistons, different spring combinations and nothing seems to work. for example. if I build my mugen shocks with 20mm of rebound I can race all weekend and they will be the same after the weekend. I build my tekno shocks with no rebound but after the weekend the car is sitting lower, harder, handles like a brick. now I took the shocks apart after maybe a dozen runs since I bought it and the shock shaft guides in the shocks are all destroyed and the shafts are "hanging". In two years with my old shocks I never had to replace those once. No disrespect here..it is an amazing car. xray had issues with the 808e shocks as well. I just think that I spend twice as much time with shocks tan I ever have before. I have been running rc cars since the Mrc Tamiya Hornet so I am not a "rookie" . Maybe post a video of you building the shocks?
As far as the cartridges getting torn up, a few good hits on the old parts and I can see that happening. The newer cartridge parts should be more durable.
On the ride height and handling, make sure the arms and the rest of the suspension are free. I'll check the suspension for free movement after every few runs. I always ream the holes of the arms before assembly and even put the reamer through once or twice during rebuilds to clear out debris that could be causing a bind. Check hinge pins for trueness, etc.
One more thing that we found really helps to keep the vehicle running smoothly is the use of a silicone lubricant (http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/566).
If you have any suggestions on how we can make the product better, please let us know (forum, pm, email, whatever). Thanks.
#8392
Tech Regular
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 437
From: Pennsylvania
csi red pistons - tried 80, 70, 60,50,40,35,32,30
blue vports - 42,37,35,32,30,27,25,22,17
stock pistons - 40,37,35,30,37,
all with kyosho light blues in front and orange in the back
ended up at 27.5 front and 25 in back.
#8393
Tech Regular
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 437
From: Pennsylvania
Thanks for the honest feedback, it is much appreciated. We will try to get a video up soon with all of our latest building techniques.
As far as the cartridges getting torn up, a few good hits on the old parts and I can see that happening. The newer cartridge parts should be more durable.
On the ride height and handling, make sure the arms and the rest of the suspension are free. I'll check the suspension for free movement after every few runs. I always ream the holes of the arms before assembly and even put the reamer through once or twice during rebuilds to clear out debris that could be causing a bind. Check hinge pins for trueness, etc.
One more thing that we found really helps to keep the vehicle running smoothly is the use of a silicone lubricant (http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/566).
If you have any suggestions on how we can make the product better, please let us know (forum, pm, email, whatever). Thanks.
As far as the cartridges getting torn up, a few good hits on the old parts and I can see that happening. The newer cartridge parts should be more durable.
On the ride height and handling, make sure the arms and the rest of the suspension are free. I'll check the suspension for free movement after every few runs. I always ream the holes of the arms before assembly and even put the reamer through once or twice during rebuilds to clear out debris that could be causing a bind. Check hinge pins for trueness, etc.
One more thing that we found really helps to keep the vehicle running smoothly is the use of a silicone lubricant (http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/566).
If you have any suggestions on how we can make the product better, please let us know (forum, pm, email, whatever). Thanks.
#8394
What I have found is during a race day, dust gets in the pivoting parts of the cars(happened with all the cars I have run, not just Tekno) and it will bind the suspension arms and ride height and droop can change. Like Danny said, reaming the arm holes helps keep the pin holes in the arms free of dust and debris as well as making sure the hinge pins arent bent by rolling them on a flat surface. I also shim most of the front to rear play out of the arms as dust doesnt get in as easily.
As normal maintenance, After each race day I check the hinge pins and arm holes. along with check for any broken parts and bad bearings. To this day, I only rebuild shocks to tune. My shocks hold great and never leak. I have one of the origional cars from the 1st batch. No wear on them at all. I will try the new shock bushing out but thats only because Im and upgrade whore.
As normal maintenance, After each race day I check the hinge pins and arm holes. along with check for any broken parts and bad bearings. To this day, I only rebuild shocks to tune. My shocks hold great and never leak. I have one of the origional cars from the 1st batch. No wear on them at all. I will try the new shock bushing out but thats only because Im and upgrade whore.
#8395
Forgot to mention, I ream the arm holes out with a reamer that is .159. It is a little more free on the pin and doesnt bind up as easily. The hole in the arm will actually be a little smaller than .159 as the material deflects the reamer a little. It leaves me about a .001 inch slip fit. Works great.
#8396
I tried that exact combo but it was a bit hard. this is what I have tried so far
csi red pistons - tried 80, 70, 60,50,40,35,32,30
blue vports - 42,37,35,32,30,27,25,22,17
stock pistons - 40,37,35,30,37,
all with kyosho light blues in front and orange in the back
ended up at 27.5 front and 25 in back.
csi red pistons - tried 80, 70, 60,50,40,35,32,30
blue vports - 42,37,35,32,30,27,25,22,17
stock pistons - 40,37,35,30,37,
all with kyosho light blues in front and orange in the back
ended up at 27.5 front and 25 in back.
I also will be doing testing with 8 x 1.3
I was also thinking to clue hole up on spare set of caps and run rebound. Has anybody done this if so how was it?
#8397
Tech Regular
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 437
From: Pennsylvania
I race on tracks that have really large jumps with not much landings on most of them.. Guess thats why i'm just a tad thicker. What brand oils I use Losi.
I also will be doing testing with 8 x 1.3
I was also thinking to clue hole up on spare set of caps and run rebound. Has anybody done this if so how was it?
I also will be doing testing with 8 x 1.3
I was also thinking to clue hole up on spare set of caps and run rebound. Has anybody done this if so how was it?



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