Tekno RC EB48 Thread
#8371
#8372
#8373
Probably a week or two. They need to take pictures and get everything in the system. Same with Tower, Stormer and others, might take a week or two.
#8377
But Tekno was 1st, who cares who is 2nd.
The electronics layout is switched around a bit from the EB48 though with the battery and motor farther back. And ESC on the left instead of the right side.
#8378
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 65
I think that now that motor, ESC and battery technology have caught/surpassed the performance level of nitro it was only a matter of time before "E" specific kits were developed..
Also I don't know if I would call the Losi 8ight-E 3.0 a copy of the EB-48. Yes they made it narrower but that is inevitable when designing a "E" specific buggy. However when you look at drive line, motor position and parts it really doesn't compare to a EB-48 at all. I would say techno is design with no compromises to performance and uses high precision parts. The Losi while nice has a "compromise" design and if the parts are typical of Losi stuff will have parts with not has high of a precision level.
Also I don't know if I would call the Losi 8ight-E 3.0 a copy of the EB-48. Yes they made it narrower but that is inevitable when designing a "E" specific buggy. However when you look at drive line, motor position and parts it really doesn't compare to a EB-48 at all. I would say techno is design with no compromises to performance and uses high precision parts. The Losi while nice has a "compromise" design and if the parts are typical of Losi stuff will have parts with not has high of a precision level.
#8379
I will be doing full teardowns and servicing of my EB48 and SCT410 this weekend. Trying to find out why the front end of the EB48 let going and just spins now.
My question is this, and I appologize before hand if this is an easy answer type one, but for the whole new gears, etc. If I need gears for my front end, do I need to do all the gears in the vehicle (rear) or can I go new up front, old / current in the rear?
My question is this, and I appologize before hand if this is an easy answer type one, but for the whole new gears, etc. If I need gears for my front end, do I need to do all the gears in the vehicle (rear) or can I go new up front, old / current in the rear?
#8380
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 340
From: San Diego
I will be doing full teardowns and servicing of my EB48 and SCT410 this weekend. Trying to find out why the front end of the EB48 let going and just spins now.
My question is this, and I appologize before hand if this is an easy answer type one, but for the whole new gears, etc. If I need gears for my front end, do I need to do all the gears in the vehicle (rear) or can I go new up front, old / current in the rear?
My question is this, and I appologize before hand if this is an easy answer type one, but for the whole new gears, etc. If I need gears for my front end, do I need to do all the gears in the vehicle (rear) or can I go new up front, old / current in the rear?
#8381
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,808
From: Texas
If the front just spins free, it's probably not your ring and pinion gears. The first place I would look is the set screw that holds the dog bone coupler to the front pinion gear. I have had mine back out a couple of times.
#8383
I've done some more testing with the CSI Blue V-Ports and I'm getting better results. Feels great on the bench. 12" drop, no bottoming out, but it feels really soft.
25wt AE Front with Yellow Springs / 20wt AE Rear with Orange Springs. Buggy is really good in the bumps and jumps. It also rebounds very quickly, faster than the my 8 X 1.3's with the same pack feeling.
I'm going to test it with a one rate drop in springs front and rear this weekend. The buggy has never felt so good.
25wt AE Front with Yellow Springs / 20wt AE Rear with Orange Springs. Buggy is really good in the bumps and jumps. It also rebounds very quickly, faster than the my 8 X 1.3's with the same pack feeling.
I'm going to test it with a one rate drop in springs front and rear this weekend. The buggy has never felt so good.
#8384
Tech Regular
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 437
From: Pennsylvania
I've done some more testing with the CSI Blue V-Ports and I'm getting better results. Feels great on the bench. 12" drop, no bottoming out, but it feels really soft.
25wt AE Front with Yellow Springs / 20wt AE Rear with Orange Springs. Buggy is really good in the bumps and jumps. It also rebounds very quickly, faster than the my 8 X 1.3's with the same pack feeling.
I'm going to test it with a one rate drop in springs front and rear this weekend. The buggy has never felt so good.
25wt AE Front with Yellow Springs / 20wt AE Rear with Orange Springs. Buggy is really good in the bumps and jumps. It also rebounds very quickly, faster than the my 8 X 1.3's with the same pack feeling.
I'm going to test it with a one rate drop in springs front and rear this weekend. The buggy has never felt so good.
#8385
I have been working on those pistons for a while now. Finally got fed up and took the tekno shocks off the car entirely. Replaced them with mugen shocks. Tore down the tekno shocks and the guides inside are all screwed up. Kind of shocking. The car is only about two months old and I don't run that often. I ended up with 27 in the front and 25 in the back. kyosho lt blue in front and orange in back. Not too bad . once I order the new parts i'll try again but for now I am sticking with mugen shocks.
I did try the 27F/25R and for me it was too stiff. It didn't feel terible, but I noticed that I couldn't carry nearly as much speed into a jump as it was throwing me way to high in the air, and carrying my car too far off of the landings. As soon as I softed it up a bit, the car got tons better in the bumps, and I could hit jumps a lot harder.



2Likes
