If you're running Scale Spec or Stock Touring, the slipper spool is probably fine, and may be better if you're tapping boards. But the fixed spool will be lighter. Gear diff is nice to have, though.

Take a look at the Airtronics M11x. Amain has it discounted at $339.

For Futaba servos, you'd want BLS551 (brushless) or S9551 (coreless). Savox 1251MG if you want to save a few bucks.

-Mike

Do the TC6 hubs have identical geometry to the TC6.1?

I believe so. It'd be great if someone can verify this though.

The TC6 kit 4* C-hubs and TC6.1 with 4* castor block insert are identical and can be used on either car.

Tc6 uses a narrower bearing with a larger id than the tc6.1.
Tc6 uses a 4mm crush tube as well.

D.

Does anyone have pictures/instructions for RSD's shock shims? I'm not smart enough to figure out where they go

That has no bearing (oops, pun) on the castor blocks.

-Mike

The website says they go behind the shock mounts to make the shocks more upright... So between the shock mount and the shock tower, I'd assume.

-Mike

Just got done building my tc6.1wc. The quality/finish of the parts lessened the joy of building this car. The most troubling things for me:

1) the amount of slop in the front suspension between the hub carriers and arms
2) Shock body threads were so bad that one of the shock collars would not thread on without some deburring using a magnifying glass
3) Pistons would "stick" against the shock bodies depending on the piston position.
4) Some chassis countersunk holes were either not deep enough or the screw heads were too thick, causing the chassis to rock left and right on a completely flat surface.
5) Rear gear diff shims either caused the outdrives to bind or be loose.
6) The servo turnbuckle would every so slightly bind on top corner of the servo at about 70% right turn when using a low profile servo (s9550)


Does anybody know where I can find shims that can be used to take out the slop in the front hub carrier/arm?

Drill a small hole in the c hub.
Insert a grub screw.
Be sure to glue the inserts into place.

Love the wiring!! The cleanest ive seen

Whats best for a big open track? Since I got mine new a year ago its got ball diffs front and back. What would the front slipper gain me? Keep in mind I run a gt3 silver can tc class not 17.5

I have a slight problem. Does anybody know of an alternative method for mounting the top of my shocks? I broke one of my shock bushings at last week's race. I missed the A-main completely as I am apparently the only one in Alaska with the 6.1 WC. I ordered some from A-main Friday night when I got home. I paid extra for priority shipping so they'd be here in time. However, the post office has managed to lose it and I don't think it's going to be here for a couple more days. The only hobby shop within 2,000 miles of here does not have any in stock either. Does anybody have a solution so that I can race tomorrow night? Will mounts from a TC5 or TC4 work? I am going to go by the hobby shop tomorrow and see if they have anything that will work. Thoughts?

Im looking at the tc3 shock mounts and they look like they may work. The tc3 uses one single long screw and a nut rather than 2 like tc6. Its also plastic but as long as it works. Try some of the losi scte or 22. I used some kyosho spares I had the other day when I mounted them upside down.

You might try one from a B4.1.

The slipper will be the same to drive in comparison to the spool. It will only save you money when hitting something. On an wide open track with at least medium traction the spool will be the faster solution. This where I drive: http://www.amsc-augsburg.de/die-renn...erie/index.php

In the end it really depends on track layout and traction if a gear diff with oil or a spool is faster. If you don't have to break before taking a corner, I would also take a one way into the calculation...