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Team Associated TC6 Thread

Old 12-21-2012, 06:40 AM
  #8386  
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Originally Posted by wtcc
The slipper will be the same to drive in comparison to the spool. It will only save you money when hitting something. On an wide open track with at least medium traction the spool will be the faster solution. This where I drive: http://www.amsc-augsburg.de/die-renn...erie/index.php

In the end it really depends on track layout and traction if a gear diff with oil or a spool is faster. If you don't have to break before taking a corner, I would also take a one way into the calculation...
Guess ill try the slipper pads then. Its a semi big open bumpy track. I dont have any brakes on the car just use about 20% drag brake. The car does push a tad in a big sweeper at wot.
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:53 PM
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Well, my tracking information now says that my parts are out for delivery. The mail man is taking his sweet ass time today. It's almost 3pm here in Alaska and he hasn't showed yet. I guess it's a busy time of year for him. I still have a couple of hours that I can wait before I need to leave the house.
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Old 12-21-2012, 05:46 PM
  #8388  
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Originally Posted by KC10Chief
Well, my tracking information now says that my parts are out for delivery. The mail man is taking his sweet ass time today. It's almost 3pm here in Alaska and he hasn't showed yet. I guess it's a busy time of year for him. I still have a couple of hours that I can wait before I need to leave the house.
Jesus man have patients or give him a break. probably has lots to deliver, imagine how I felt when they missed my delivery on a 2k canon camera I through a bitch fit that I got the camera at 9pm out of the hub where it was at

Let us know when yoi get your rsd evo swap. Might pick up another tc6 or maybe the exotek swap for the other one
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Old 12-22-2012, 01:37 AM
  #8389  
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez
Jesus man have patients or give him a break. probably has lots to deliver, imagine how I felt when they missed my delivery on a 2k canon camera I through a bitch fit that I got the camera at 9pm out of the hub where it was at

Let us know when yoi get your rsd evo swap. Might pick up another tc6 or maybe the exotek swap for the other one
Yeah. It's not really the mail man's fault. Getting stuff shipped to Alaska in a timely manner can be a real pain in the butt sometimes. Especially this time of year when the weather really sucks. The mail man showed up about a half hour before I had to leave. Took me about 30 seconds to replace that bushing. I went on to win the 17.5 A-main tonight! I'm really enjoying the touring car racing. My car didn't give me any problems at all tonight. It ran perfectly and I think I really have it all dialed in. I'm sure I'll screw it up when my new chassis gets here! HA!

I am also extremely pleased with my ESC and motor. My ESC is the 80A LT4 from Brushless Hobbies in OKC. I paid $63 for this ESC and it has been fantastic. My motor is a Turnigy Trackstar that I paid $32 for from Hobby King. It's all super smooth! It is definitely the fastest car on the track. I was asked several more times about it tonight. My motor temps were around 130 all night long. I never saw it hotter than 141 and that was after running it for 15 minutes during practice. I'm thinking I might go up a couple of teeth on my pinion. Anybody that wants an ESC and motor for less than $100, you just can't go wrong with the setup I have.
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Old 12-22-2012, 01:58 PM
  #8390  
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Please help me with rebuilding my stock shocks any info would be great
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Old 12-22-2012, 03:26 PM
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Default Grid Servo Mount

Just installed Team Grid Servo mount on my TC6.
Good product. Never run on it yet though.

FYI
1. My regular size servo sticks out as you see on pics. Low profile servo should work the best with this mount.

2. I used 2mm sims between mount and servo. Servo horn barely miss upper deck.

3. Good communication and fast shipping. Thanks!
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated TC6 Thread-photo-1-3.jpg   Team Associated TC6 Thread-photo-2-3.jpg  
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Old 12-22-2012, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by KC10Chief
Yeah. It's not really the mail man's fault. Getting stuff shipped to Alaska in a timely manner can be a real pain in the butt sometimes. Especially this time of year when the weather really sucks. The mail man showed up about a half hour before I had to leave. Took me about 30 seconds to replace that bushing. I went on to win the 17.5 A-main tonight! I'm really enjoying the touring car racing. My car didn't give me any problems at all tonight. It ran perfectly and I think I really have it all dialed in. I'm sure I'll screw it up when my new chassis gets here! HA!

I am also extremely pleased with my ESC and motor. My ESC is the 80A LT4 from Brushless Hobbies in OKC. I paid $63 for this ESC and it has been fantastic. My motor is a Turnigy Trackstar that I paid $32 for from Hobby King. It's all super smooth! It is definitely the fastest car on the track. I was asked several more times about it tonight. My motor temps were around 130 all night long. I never saw it hotter than 141 and that was after running it for 15 minutes during practice. I'm thinking I might go up a couple of teeth on my pinion. Anybody that wants an ESC and motor for less than $100, you just can't go wrong with the setup I have.
It would be interesting to find out if that speedo actually is a "no boost" controller. Since it's not ROAR approved, it could be totally boosting, which is probably why it's so fast. You can't tell me that the name brand motors are slower compared to the track star just by chance. It's more likely that its the speed control that's doing something that's not quite kosher. Still gonna buy one of theses motors just in case though. Can't beat the price even for a so called throw away motor.
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Old 12-22-2012, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by YoDog
It would be interesting to find out if that speedo actually is a "no boost" controller. Since it's not ROAR approved, it could be totally boosting, which is probably why it's so fast. You can't tell me that the name brand motors are slower compared to the track star just by chance. It's more likely that its the speed control that's doing something that's not quite kosher. Still gonna buy one of theses motors just in case though. Can't beat the price even for a so called throw away motor.
Yeah. I have no idea. It's running in blinky mode. You can select the level of boost you want in the menu. You have to plug it into a computer and there is a program you use to program it. That's about the extent of my knowledge on how it works. All I know, is that it is faster than the guys running the high end ESCs and motors. There are other guys running strange ESCs and cheap motors. We just race for fun in my club anyways. They don't care if the motor or ESC you have is ROAR approved.
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Old 12-22-2012, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by KC10Chief
Yeah. I have no idea. It's running in blinky mode. You can select the level of boost you want in the menu. You have to plug it into a computer and there is a program you use to program it. That's about the extent of my knowledge on how it works. All I know, is that it is faster than the guys running the high end ESCs and motors. There are other guys running strange ESCs and cheap motors. We just race for fun in my club anyways. They don't care if the motor or ESC you have is ROAR approved.
It's kinda the same here with our local club but the competition is getting so that we are having to start to police whether or not a speedo is boosting. It's that big a difference. They don't want to get all ROAR on every combo but if its significantly faster than the others, it's likely it's boosting. That's primarily why approval is so important. Personally I prefer boosted classes because its a great tuning tool as well as being faster without going mod. When it comes to racing there is always going to be the flavor of the month regardless of what component you chose to emphasize.
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Old 12-23-2012, 09:07 AM
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Default TC6.1 FT vs. TC6.1 Worlds ??

Hi All:

What are the main differences between the FT TC6.1 and the TC6.1 Worlds ??

Is it worth the extra $100 for the Worlds ??

Thx
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Old 12-23-2012, 09:12 AM
  #8396  
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Ok after looking long at the car, it looks as though I am backwards lol. In the end of the day, I'm trying Mike Haynes set up


My question is,When it says shimming, is that between the bulkhead and mount? Or in between the mount and the arm?

If i only put 1mm I. Between the FF and arm, and .5mm shim I between the FR, there is a hole lot of slop

Last edited by beyondthepack; 12-23-2012 at 09:40 AM.
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Old 12-23-2012, 10:44 AM
  #8397  
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You use shims on both spots, but you just have to identify which part of the set up sheet refers to what.

Wheelbase refers to moving the arm fore and aft. In this case Mike lists 1mm in the fron t and the rear. This means that he has 1mm shims in front of the front arms and 1mm in the rear of the rear arms. Since the arms can be moved front to rear 3mm, this means that behind the front arms he has 2mm and in front of the rear arms he has 2mm. This is the standard TC6 wheelbase setting.

The setting of spacing in between the suspension mount and the bulkhead adjusts your car's width. In this case Mike is running 3 dot suspension mounts all around. This set up says he is running them in the lower hole on the bulkhead (a). Apparently mike is using offset mounts (you can tell this by the OS abbreviation) in each position except for the RWD (rearward) position in the front- otherwise referred to as FR position. I think this is incorrect on the sheet because the shimming is not enough to fit the DCJs properly. He is probably running OS mounts all around. The shimming is indicated by the FWD/RWD shimming box on the sheet. Here it says that Mike was running 0.5 mm behind the FR mount and 1mm behind the FF mount. This is pretty standard geometry for tc6 set ups on carpet, given that there is a mistake on the set up sheet and Mike is actually running offset mounts all around.

In the rear he is running no shims behind the fr position and 1.5 mm behind the rr mount. This should roughly yield 2 degrees of rear toe.
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Old 12-23-2012, 10:44 AM
  #8398  
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Originally Posted by beyondthepack
Did anyone else have to add 2mm washers on the arm mounts for there duel cardan drive shafts? If I didn't I would get massive binding when adjusting the camber.


Just one question, where did you get the mount for the servo? As I'm looking for one maybe two.

Thanks
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Old 12-23-2012, 11:33 AM
  #8399  
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Originally Posted by TeamGoodwrench
Hi All:

What are the main differences between the FT TC6.1 and the TC6.1 Worlds ??

Is it worth the extra $100 for the Worlds ??

Thx
The two biggest differences are the vertical ballstud bearing caps and the new narrower worlds chassis both of which you can buy separately as upgrades for the 6.1. The vertical ballstud bearing caps provide finer increments of adjustment but I don't think is a must have but the worlds chassis is definitely worth trying.

Saying that if you are buying a new kit I reckon it's definitely worth going for the Worlds kit as it's what all the factory drivers etc. are using and means you can try their setups etc. And if you do decide you are going to buy later it will cost you more than $100.
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Old 12-23-2012, 11:45 AM
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Hello, I'm needing some help. I just got a used tc 6.1 ran it last night. Car pushed real bad, how do I dial in more steering? Im munning on a small carpet track
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