SC10 4x4 Thread
Yes there off a 1/8 buggy using losi 8 springs I believe. There are no 1/10 vehicles that use 16mm shocks that I'm aware of... Cept George's sc10 4x4 now. 
FYI guys.. the hot bodies d8 springs are pretty short compared to most eBuggys
And I know length was an issue he had to deal with.

FYI guys.. the hot bodies d8 springs are pretty short compared to most eBuggys
And I know length was an issue he had to deal with.
Yes there off a 1/8 buggy using losi 8 springs I believe. There are no 1/10 vehicles that use 16mm shocks that I'm aware of... Cept George's sc10 4x4 now. 
FYI guys.. the hot bodies d8 springs are pretty short compared to most eBuggys
And I know length was an issue he had to deal with.

FYI guys.. the hot bodies d8 springs are pretty short compared to most eBuggys
And I know length was an issue he had to deal with.
The hot bodies springs are very short, here is a breakdown of the HB springs as well as them converted to AE rates, assuming my calculations are right:
Hot Bodies D8 spring rates
Part # Length Force Color Lbs
67446 60 74 Gray 4.14
67447 60 81 White 4.54
67448 60 89 Blue 4.98
67449 60 98 Orange 5.49
67450 68 59 Green 3.30
67451 68 68 Yellow 3.81
67452 68 81 Red 4.54
67453 76 52 Gray 2.91
67454 76 59 white 3.30
67455 76 63 Blue 3.53
67456 76 74 Orange 4.14
Associated RC8.2 Rates
Front Black 3.30
Front Silver 3.90
Front Green 4.00
Front Silver 4.30
Front Blue 4.65
Front Bronze 4.70
Rear Black 2.70
Rear Green 3.25
Rear Silver 3.30
Rear Silver 8.2 3.55
Rear Blue 3.75
Rear Bronze 4.00
Springs using now come very close to Ae 13mm Yellow spring rates .
running on indoor clay med to high traction
If using a softer 13mm spring set-up then yellow ?
Try to match that rate for BB shock mod.
Don't recommend using front springs for the rear.
Front spring rates are a lot more progressive & firmer compared to rear spring rates .
running on indoor clay med to high traction
If using a softer 13mm spring set-up then yellow ?
Try to match that rate for BB shock mod.
Don't recommend using front springs for the rear.
Front spring rates are a lot more progressive & firmer compared to rear spring rates .
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 939
From: Commerce Twp. MI
You'll hear a variety of positions on this including those that feel the vehicle needs nothing and is the greatest thing since slice bread.
You have to sort through that and believe what you want to believe. The way I personally look at it is if you keep getting different people in different areas reportin similar issues on similar conditions, they aren't all just teaming up and lying. 
In my personal opinion, the first thing you should identify with the SC10 4x4 is what conditions do you plan to run it in.
It excels at indoor 1/10 oriented conditions, but in stock form is not as good on loose big jump conditions like found on 1/8 sized tracks like its competitor, the losi SCTE, which, considering the platform for the losi SCTE has a variety described by losi itself as a 1/8 buggy, not surprised.
In those situations, it benefits from a variety of parts. You can do some of the mods on the cheap versus others and get very good results.
It also has interesting in air handling characteristics that depending on where you are coming from RC wise, you may need to adjust your jumping "style" when using the vehicle. I find that for me with how my vehicle is setup, I prefer to punch it on the face of the jump. This usually has it jump for me at least slightly nose up which during flight it either levels off mid air then slightly nose down, or, if its still up, I can pin the brake to drop the front end. I can't however save it if its coming off nose down, it's pretty much is a lost cause at that point. Before with a lot of vehicles, I would just run it up over the jump and could control it mid air with throttle or brake inputs.
Durability wise, Its a highly durable truck in my opinion after you do the diff shim mod. I have been quite happy with that aspect of the vehicle. I beat it up pretty good last night on an indoor area that had a massive jump landing on a very thin carpet over concrete in a small shopping mall. Pretty much clearing the landing jump repeatedly and nothing broke in comparison to all the buggies in attendance for this bash fest. Nose dives, tail landing, upside down landings that beat the body up hard and a couple of jumps into the landing area as well as several into a trash can in from of a pillar, hitting the pillar lol, still all good.
As a side note, the RC Shox center diff provided extreme punch as well, with little run up could punch over the large jump expanse, just for those curious if the center diff can be used on carpet / high traction conditions. 8 pins right now, excellent performance.
M2C block setting of 2.75 degrees toe in gave quick direction changes that I liked on the high traction surface while still being controllable all around the track. I may try the next heaviest sway bar on the rear and see how it goes, but the truck feels pretty much dialed right now.
You have to sort through that and believe what you want to believe. The way I personally look at it is if you keep getting different people in different areas reportin similar issues on similar conditions, they aren't all just teaming up and lying. 
In my personal opinion, the first thing you should identify with the SC10 4x4 is what conditions do you plan to run it in.
It excels at indoor 1/10 oriented conditions, but in stock form is not as good on loose big jump conditions like found on 1/8 sized tracks like its competitor, the losi SCTE, which, considering the platform for the losi SCTE has a variety described by losi itself as a 1/8 buggy, not surprised.
In those situations, it benefits from a variety of parts. You can do some of the mods on the cheap versus others and get very good results.
It also has interesting in air handling characteristics that depending on where you are coming from RC wise, you may need to adjust your jumping "style" when using the vehicle. I find that for me with how my vehicle is setup, I prefer to punch it on the face of the jump. This usually has it jump for me at least slightly nose up which during flight it either levels off mid air then slightly nose down, or, if its still up, I can pin the brake to drop the front end. I can't however save it if its coming off nose down, it's pretty much is a lost cause at that point. Before with a lot of vehicles, I would just run it up over the jump and could control it mid air with throttle or brake inputs.
Durability wise, Its a highly durable truck in my opinion after you do the diff shim mod. I have been quite happy with that aspect of the vehicle. I beat it up pretty good last night on an indoor area that had a massive jump landing on a very thin carpet over concrete in a small shopping mall. Pretty much clearing the landing jump repeatedly and nothing broke in comparison to all the buggies in attendance for this bash fest. Nose dives, tail landing, upside down landings that beat the body up hard and a couple of jumps into the landing area as well as several into a trash can in from of a pillar, hitting the pillar lol, still all good.
As a side note, the RC Shox center diff provided extreme punch as well, with little run up could punch over the large jump expanse, just for those curious if the center diff can be used on carpet / high traction conditions. 8 pins right now, excellent performance.

M2C block setting of 2.75 degrees toe in gave quick direction changes that I liked on the high traction surface while still being controllable all around the track. I may try the next heaviest sway bar on the rear and see how it goes, but the truck feels pretty much dialed right now.

Associated released 0.5mm shims to use instead of the stock 0.2mm shims under the sun gear as well as removing the shim they show in the manual that goes behind / under the diff cup.
Call AE and they will send you some out for free. Some people use .4mm for less tightness of the drivetrain initially. After running the vehicle in (or, possibly the diff itself iwth a hand held drill, have heard of this), you can clean out the diffs, put fresh oil in and it will be pretty free.
Call AE and they will send you some out for free. Some people use .4mm for less tightness of the drivetrain initially. After running the vehicle in (or, possibly the diff itself iwth a hand held drill, have heard of this), you can clean out the diffs, put fresh oil in and it will be pretty free.
Any stiffer and the truck looses
traction & steering for my conditions ....
For the front shocks ?
losi 15mm spring fits great & offer the correct spring rate .
Finding a rear spring is the trick ...

Most rear springs are all too tall for the 29mm shock body ...

Why I suggest trimming some coils off a set of rear springs that are a bit softer to equal a good rear rate .
Trimming 2 coils will stiffen the spring some .
Keep this in mind when choosing a set of rear springs .
Will keep the grip and the correct spring rate needed for the rear suspension ...
Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 189
Is there a chart or formula for figuring out what oil weight to piston hole diameter?
I'm asking this because my track surface temp is about 55 degrees. Using typical setups, I get too much pack in the shocks. I was running maifield's setup in higher temps and the truck was performing great. To reduce pack, I have dropped down to 25 wt. front and rear, but would like to go lower in the rear. However, since I have removed the upper x-ring to reduce friction (this made a bigger diff. than I thought it would and don't want to go back to two x-rings) I am worried about blowing the thin oil out as if I stayed with the balance recommended, I should be running 17.5 wt. rear shock oil. If I went with the 1.3mm pistons instead of the 1.2's, about how much higher in weight oil should I go to get the same feel? (Using given setup at a constant temp) I will go my two to three weights lighter for my track temp.
I understand that it won't be exactly the same feel due to fluid dynamics.
I'm asking this because my track surface temp is about 55 degrees. Using typical setups, I get too much pack in the shocks. I was running maifield's setup in higher temps and the truck was performing great. To reduce pack, I have dropped down to 25 wt. front and rear, but would like to go lower in the rear. However, since I have removed the upper x-ring to reduce friction (this made a bigger diff. than I thought it would and don't want to go back to two x-rings) I am worried about blowing the thin oil out as if I stayed with the balance recommended, I should be running 17.5 wt. rear shock oil. If I went with the 1.3mm pistons instead of the 1.2's, about how much higher in weight oil should I go to get the same feel? (Using given setup at a constant temp) I will go my two to three weights lighter for my track temp.
I understand that it won't be exactly the same feel due to fluid dynamics.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (40)
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 465
I don't want to steal WC's thunder, but I did it too and will be driving it hopefully next week? Can't say how it works, but it's an easy swap parts wise. Ebayed 2 sets of front shocks, $70 total. Sitting on Losi green and red springs for now, we'll see if I do the AE coil/cut once it turns a lap... Very anxious and eager to try, but no time 'til after the holiday...
I don't want to steal WC's thunder, but I did it too and will be driving it hopefully next week? Can't say how it works, but it's an easy swap parts wise. Ebayed 2 sets of front shocks, $70 total. Sitting on Losi green and red springs for now, we'll see if I do the AE coil/cut once it turns a lap... Very anxious and eager to try, but no time 'til after the holiday...

Race again this Friday , Saturday & Sunday .. O-Man !
Now you know what I am ...
Just a old track rat & I eats lots of CHEESE ..
Is there a chart or formula for figuring out what oil weight to piston hole diameter?
I'm asking this because my track surface temp is about 55 degrees. Using typical setups, I get too much pack in the shocks. I was running maifield's setup in higher temps and the truck was performing great. To reduce pack, I have dropped down to 25 wt. front and rear, but would like to go lower in the rear. However, since I have removed the upper x-ring to reduce friction (this made a bigger diff. than I thought it would and don't want to go back to two x-rings) I am worried about blowing the thin oil out as if I stayed with the balance recommended, I should be running 17.5 wt. rear shock oil. If I went with the 1.3mm pistons instead of the 1.2's, about how much higher in weight oil should I go to get the same feel? (Using given setup at a constant temp) I will go my two to three weights lighter for my track temp.
I understand that it won't be exactly the same feel due to fluid dynamics.
I'm asking this because my track surface temp is about 55 degrees. Using typical setups, I get too much pack in the shocks. I was running maifield's setup in higher temps and the truck was performing great. To reduce pack, I have dropped down to 25 wt. front and rear, but would like to go lower in the rear. However, since I have removed the upper x-ring to reduce friction (this made a bigger diff. than I thought it would and don't want to go back to two x-rings) I am worried about blowing the thin oil out as if I stayed with the balance recommended, I should be running 17.5 wt. rear shock oil. If I went with the 1.3mm pistons instead of the 1.2's, about how much higher in weight oil should I go to get the same feel? (Using given setup at a constant temp) I will go my two to three weights lighter for my track temp.
I understand that it won't be exactly the same feel due to fluid dynamics.
55 is not that cold , would only consider going 5w down unless it got even cooler like 40 <> 45
Silicon oil is stays very close to its weight even in cooler temps .
Even better then a single X-ring ?
2 X rings and trim .030 off the top of the shock cartridge where the top X-ring sits..
Will be as smooth as the single ring set-up with
no stick & better a seal,
( no leak) ...



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