The 16mm BB shocks project is going great .

Driven other Sc10 trucks with the 13mm shocks and immediately experience the difference ...
Even have one truck set-up exactly the same as my truck cept it does not have the 16mm .


Feel I now can say to you guys with the up most certainty..

The 16mm shock set-up performs way better then the standard shock set-up.


Reasons

*more steering
*more traction
*better jumps & landings
*more stability
*smoother chassis roll on the sweeper & sharp turns...

Can claim after weeks of testing & racing ...
The 16mm shock is worth .3 to .4 sec per lap faster on average .

Most of all , They are easier to drive & more consistent....

Yeah, looks like that grub is in a precarious place. The AE pinions are a little wider to cover more than the spurs width so you can position better.

I used a 1mm shock clip CA'd on the back of the stock non vts cover where the screws pass through and that gave clearance for the C-Diff.

Shouldn't have any effect on rolling resistance, C-Diff and slipper are dormant without a difference in wheel speed front to back... got a overdrive pulley in?
Check the image of the thrust washer in Cameron's walk through. The two washers have different depth machining. I forgot how it went without looking, maybe ask in the rcshox forum.

One is machined out more and deeper, that accepts the side of the bearing with the balls sticking out more. The shallow side accepts the side of the bearing that the balls are more flush with the bearing housing. You could have that backwards and not know it causing drag in there (not sure if it would be noticeable) and eventually toast the bearing from heat. I don't think Cameron's walk through mentions that, just shows orientation.

I wouldn't think once it is assembled correct it matters which way the assembled bearing and washers face but I remember hearing deep or shallow side of washer (?) goes inboard on the shaft. Ask Marcus.

interesting. Surprised AE didn't see this on the SC10 4x4 initially, unless it wasn't tested that way before release. Maybe more conditions based?

Is there anything out of the ordinary you had to do to get the shocks to where they are now?

I am getting back into off-road this spring and considering getting one of these for the 4x4 class. But I am hearing they are quite fragile. How well do they hold up? And can I use 1/10th electronics?

Wild Cherry,
What 16mm shocks,pistons,oils,springs, are you using?

they are not fragile. Just follow the tips mentioned, in particular the diff shimming.

For electronics, 1/10 electronics depends. I run the Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro and it works excellent with the Tekin 4 Pole 540 motor I use or the previous 550s. the newer reventon Pro only works with the 550 2 Poles for now. No need to mod the ESCs to fit them, they are very small relative to the Tekin RX8.

The MMP can work, but may need an external BEC and may not run as well as the RX8 from what I have read.

As for motor, personally you are better served with going with a 550 sized motor or a 4 pole 540.

will post later tonight complete details & pictures ...


This shock mod is the best performance mod for the truck sense the Factory upgrade kit was made available ...

Easy to do too...
well , maybe trimming the coils off & bending
the rear spring is a little technical ...
Will show you everything ...

hey i was jw if there is much dif in the 4x4 sc10 and the slash....i have never driven a sc10 so i dont know if it is any dif...thanks

Sorry its the angle of the picture the pinion grub screw is not making any contact with the spur.

Its clicking with cover on and off so its not the cover but will definitely look into the spacers for fitment clearance.

I am running a 19t pulley up front per maifields latest setup on ae site.
I will check the depth of the thrust washer sides but one side of the thrust washer is hollow and one side is flat with the bearings. I will check the grooved washers to see the depth that the bearing sit in and adjust if needed. I don't know how that could be the cause of the clicking but will check it just to be sure.

would i be better off with the ft version of this and upgrade few thing on it to make it add weight or should i just go buy the tekno sct410 this were i am stock at

Personally, I would start by pulling the center diff completely, then free rolling it to see if you get any clicking.

If there are parts you can install during the center diff assembly that will stay when free rolled, may be worth a look. Basically trying to eliminate possiblities.

As for the pulley up front, I don't recall anyone using that in addition with the center diff.

I would say first identify what it is you want out of the vehicle. If you are wanting a 1/8 based SCT, then the SCT410 may be right for you. If you want a vehicle like what the AE SC10 4x4 is, then you go that route.

No over/under drive with the C-Diff. Fighting against each other. Defeats the purpose of having a C-Diff to determine where it wants the power.

Balls stick out from both sides of the thrust bearing, one side more than the other. Side that protrudes more goes in deeper machined washer.
Would not create a click, just thought of that when I thought about drag that you have on a side note.

Click is as Cain said, something else going on. Remove stuff till no click and start putting it back together to find where the click is... after you space out the spur cover.

Dont run an over or underdrive pulley with the center dif, will create all kinds of handling issue and is not needed. Defeats the purpose.
Make sure that the thrust bearing assembly isnt rubbing against the motor plate or transmission. Other than that there is no difference with or without the center dif as it has nothing to do with how the truck rolls, same shaft.

Also , running Maifields setup with a center dif is not going to be very good, lots of adjustments are needed. start off with my base setup on my thread and go from there.

Mantis starting setup is very good with the center diff as a base. Probably the only thing I would add right away if you are on loose conditions, the 3.5 degrees of toe in is killer with the M2C blocks.

gonna try the Sc10 4x4 on another carpet surface tommorrow. Nothing formal but considering the closet track is an hour away, take what i can get!

I tore it back apart and removed the 19t front pulley and reinstalled. No Click now.
I also changed my belt tension settings back to the middle front middle rear. I was running it highest tension setting rear and front based on maifields set up and thought the belt might be too tight.

I went back and pulled it all out and looked at the build post with pics, I got the thrust bearing installed correctly exactly as Cameron Kelloggs build pics on rc shox thread.


Thrust bearing is sitting with clearance from the motor plate and transmission. I think the biggest part of the clicking sound was my gear mesh being too tight, I never ran power to the truck was just pushing it on the floor by hand and was hearing the clicking. Now after loosening belt tension and pulling the 19t front pulley I noticed the soft whoosh that my gears make when I roll the truck on the ground is the same timing as the clicking just alot quieter so I think it was the sound of my teeth meshing together when too tight. I remeshed and everything is gravy
I did notice one thing of note. I could only get the grooved washers that the thrust bearing sits between, to install with one washer going first, the other washer would only slide down to about quarter of an inch from end of shaft and would not go down further, (guessing tighter tolerance on inner ring that was tighter than shaft diameter) I checked the shaft and found nothing that would obstruct the grooved washer from seating fully, yet it would not go down all the way. I was able to use the second grooved washer and it slid down and fully seated on plastic spacer then install the thrust bearing then the second grooved washer with the tighter center hole diameter and no issues from there.


Is this the set up you meant?



3.5 degrees of toe? m2c blocks? I am on page 1620 of this thread I only have 500 more pages to be caught up so forgive me as I have not heard of the M2C but think I read a post saying its the rear toe block like the 3.2 and 3.3?