Hi, I am about to buy a new motor as the stock RTR Reedy motor is burnt out. I have chosen the Hobbywing Xerun 3672SD motor. But will the rear chassis plate have to modified for the motor to fit. If so, how will i need to modify it.

Sorry if the pictures are blurred

For anyone interested....

I had my steering ball links popping off while racing at my small indoor track. I installed the Du-bro 3mm monster ball links and that took care of the problem. Granted they changed the layout since I last had been there and it was much more of an "open" layout. But not a problem all day. Here is the link to what I bought....



http://shop.dubro.com/p/3mm-monster-...ks?pp=12&pp=12

Depends on what kind of setup you have going on as far as either a clutch basket they setup or Center Diff setup.

The center diff setups use a much lower oil weight in general up front. I am running 7K front, 5K rear pretty much indoors, outdoors, etc.

For the clutch basket style setups (MTK, VTS, etc) seems about 15K and up in the front is common, 5K - 7K rear . I'd say look at some of the setups posted on AE's site and go with the one that appears to fit your conditions the best if running the VTS or similar slipper setup.

Can't see why you would need to modify anything (could be wrong), I'm running 550 sized motor no changes needed.

Which 550 motor are you using?

janga,

That motor is 72mm long... the length will be the problem. Measure 72mm from the motor plate and see where you will need to cut the chassis. I would choose a shorter motor... Xerun 3656SD would be plenty.

I'm going to be using the VTS system, should I use the overdrive pulley in the front diff. Also I've noticed that most people run full time 4WD instead of the clicker, I was just wondering what the reason is for this.

rippen

Overdrive is useful in helping the truck pull more or extra steering coming out of the corner .

Most use full time 4w because it gives smoother steering & extra traction compared to the overdrive....

But isn't full time 4WD harder on the drivetrain?

overdrive makes for more load for the Front drive train , rear load stays the same with either ..

So just lock the front slipper.

Yes , start with a locked clicker & no overdrive ..
If you desire more steering the clicker can be loosen & overdrive added....

Thanks for the info, also just order the Exotek chassis and rear hubs.

Janga, I got the Castle 2400kv in my SC10 4x4 and I had to do some shaving on the inner edge of the rear chassis piece right where the motors back end hits on the inside.
Take a dremmel to it where the back of the motor hits, shaving a little bit at a time. Shave a little and then check by placing the motor in its spot until it fits with no problem.
This operation does not mess with the structural integrity of the rear chassis piece. I did this and have had no issues. Also it is not alot that gets shaved.

rippen
You don't really need but they are great parts .....

You need ...

saddle packs

+3mm Rims

Team upgrade kit* (*if your truck is not the Team edition)

8mm camber mod

ballast weights

metal wheel hex

sway bars

yellow Ae 13mm springs