I think you have them mixed up there.

Toe-in in the rear will lock the rear in, and induce scrub. Toe-out in the front will give you sharper turn in.

100%.
Driving onroad teaches you how to tune and really takes a fine touch to go fast. When I raced on & offroad years ago, if I raced onroad on a Saturday and offroad on Sunday.. I killed it on Sunday.

Agreed, but it makes a difference if you have a servo self centering or the driver has to bring it back.

BTW, all toe induces scrub.

Everyone should try racing sedans for the first time in 10 years at a big indoor race, with no pit man, zero testing, all controled practice, two new cars that never so much as turned a wheel, and oh yeah, get all your support gear (except for your transmitter) stolen a month before the race!

It's not for the brave of heart, but I had a wonderful time at the IIC and am really glad I did it.

Going from toe out to a zero toe setup calmed down my truck on straights and took te twichiness out

Frankly, that seems completely legit.

I used to run carpet TC and offroad. Onroad actually messed me up for off road. On road cars are planted, and can be pushed pretty hard. Offroad I would start to over drive my car and lose time. But I miss onroad, I dont think anyone does it here. TC used to be huge, I guess it died.

I'd love to get into on-road, but there's not much of a scene here. I think it'd make me a better driver, as I would have to focus on being smooth while driving at or close to the limit.

I got to watch Hartson run this past weekend, and his truck looked really good (as it should of course). It looked nose-heavy, and the back did rotate coming into the sweeper, but it was VERY controlled. With some quality time, this truck is very competetive. Granted a Losi took the win, but Olson (Losi/MIP) was on a whole different level.

+ YouTube Video

Thanks for the heads up.

Sedans are on a whole different level. Used to run sedan heavily in CT in the early 2000s. Back when the whole 19T class was a big deal and xray had just come out with there first vehicle.

Ok, not sure what to do here, but my SC10 4x4 is just plain slow, really slow, as in slowest short course on the track at the Southern Nats.......by a long shot.....Here is my setep:

- Exotek aluminum mid-chassis to reduce flex
- Exotek aluminum front diff lock replacing inner slipper pad
- Front slipper/clicker lock (CA'd together)
- FT slipper basket
- Tekin Pro4 4600 4pole with Castle MMP with no timing

I run between 11t - 13t pinion depening on track size. Temps normally around 160-165 after 8min. Nol distinguishable noise, grinding, etc. I took the belt off and both front and rear wheels seem to spin pretty free. Belt on, not so free (Pinion removed).

Not sure what to do now....I am told I jave to much motor, yet have the slowest truck on the track. Stumped and not sure what to do now......

where are you slow on the track?

Going down the straight, where are you topping out?

People have reported on this thread they get more power when switching from the MMP to say the Tekin RX8. Me personally plenty of power with the Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro.

Absolutely true. I don't think this is 100% your problem, but I was able to gear down two teeth alone with the rx8 AND no longer have any Esc timing. Insane.

Mid to top end. Tops out early like it needs more gear, but temps are already around 165.

dunno about the speed issue, but I would try the rcshox cdiff.

had that similar issue. Wanted to run more gear but motor was at a temp that I felt was high. The Pro 4s from what I have been told can be good to higher temps than normal 540s, I think someone said once in the 180 range. Confirm though with Tekin.

If you are not running a fan on the motor worth, doing.

Also, I found that running very little Turbo timing at a higher RPM range gave me the top end I needed and kept temps down. The Pro4's don't like timing throughout the RPM range from what I have seen, but can benefit with timing at the top, like 5 degrees.