Originally Posted by BorackBasher

mesh isnt the issue.. it will drive smooth as butter until i hit something.. not hard either where it shouldnt strip the spur.. i let jimmy barnett drive the truck yesterday and it was super quite until he wall tap the wall.. then all of sudden bam! sounded like a losi.. crunchy to the max

Originally Posted by RossNZ

Sounds to me like something in your drive train is binding thru travel or shock when you land hard or hit something, check travel thru the car for a axle or bearing binding, this will lock up and strip a spur in a split second, also check your chassis bolts, if loose the rear end can flex left to right, just a thought, have you checked the bearing behind the slipper, no movement in and out with the slipper assembly, could bind up under an impact or maybe twist abit?

Originally Posted by Cain

Heck, I wonder if that flex you get could be causing the belt to bind up possibly and whammo, down goes the spur?

Others probably got better info, its just your last post seemed to make me think of htat.

One nice thing I like about the exotek is no need for the brace as far as I am seeing.

Originally Posted by BorackBasher

the bearing in the transmission case that the top shaft goes through? i will double check that today when i go to the track.. the front chassis brace screw is bent.. it keeps on bending and i finally just left it in... there is some flex even with the chassis brace.. is that my issue right there?

Originally Posted by RossNZ

Yes the bearing the shaft goes thru, I had to add a shim to mine as it started to bind, yours could be getting hot, and locking enough to strip the spur, check the belt can't get to tight with chassis movement, that could bind it maybe, my moneys on something binding and locking up someplace, up travel thru your axles etc, when you set your mesh, I'm sure you turn the spur all the way round?, shaft not bent?

Originally Posted by BorackBasher

if the slipper is too tight that will cause the spur to strip?

Originally Posted by fq06

Dan & Cain, right on the money with the diff fluid. I run 5/5 with the C-Diff.

Dirty, do yourself a HUGE favor and have new gears for the diff when you pull it apart to shim it or you will more than likely be doing it a second time.

Order a couple 62 tooth spur gears from RcShox for spares along with the pins. You will more than likely end up running 6 pins once you drop the oil weight in the diff, but those wear so good to get some freshies.

Absolutely the first tuning change though is 5k front fluid.

On the temps, if you ask tekin they will tell you that you are geared correctly based on temps. I prefer 160, but I am not running the pro4. Add a fan with the 13 and your at 160 with more torque out of the motor and top end than the 12.
I come off at 150 after a heat but 180 during practice if I drive for more than 10 min.

Originally Posted by Cain

.5mm I believe but you also don't use that shim that goes between the cup and the case. Again, from memory of what instructions AE sent.