5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
10-08-2012 | 09:51 AM
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...HandbookV2.pdf
Adding toe-in (front of wheels point inward) adds
straight-line stability, while adding toe-out (front of wheels point outward) tends to make the car
wander a little
straight-line stability, while adding toe-out (front of wheels point outward) tends to make the car
wander a little
10-08-2012 | 10:38 AM
10-08-2012 | 10:42 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 398
From: Hamburg
Can't be a new one, it has to be beetween 0.1 and 0.2mm thick. But what would you recommend, 0.1mm under the outdrive and 0.4mm under the sungear or 0mm under the outdrive and 0.5mm under the sungear? 0.6mm doesnt work at all and 0.5mm is already a bit tight. (the washers rotate when i turn the outdrive).
//EDIT: how thick are the ones under the planet gears? They were not included in my kit, are they new too?
//EDIT: how thick are the ones under the planet gears? They were not included in my kit, are they new too?
10-08-2012 | 10:55 AM
not sure what to recommend to be honest as I am using the .5mm setup. I would think that if you got the same basic amount of overall shim thickness by say doubling up on the 0.2 shims under the sun gear and leaving in the shim between the case and the outdrive which (measure, I don't know for sure) assuming its .1mm gives you the 0.5mm setup should be fine. But, maybe there is more to it than that.
The 0.5mm setup new was tight. Will need to drive it in and you may find you will want to rebuild your diffs with fresh oils after that period. I found when I did that on my previous SC10 4x4 the vehicle felt great.
The 0.5mm setup new was tight. Will need to drive it in and you may find you will want to rebuild your diffs with fresh oils after that period. I found when I did that on my previous SC10 4x4 the vehicle felt great.
10-08-2012 | 10:57 AM
In all cases there are shims next to the planet gears, no change in size.
.5 is for worn problematic gears. Too tight for new gears.
Two .2 shims under the sun does not really want the outside shim on the outdrive... but you can, will be snug. One .5 under sun will not allow the shim on the outside of the outdrive.
Brand new gears and brand new cases with no woggled out housing should be good with one .2 shim. There are also aftermarket .3 shims if your inbetween .2 & .4.
.5 is for worn problematic gears. Too tight for new gears.
Two .2 shims under the sun does not really want the outside shim on the outdrive... but you can, will be snug. One .5 under sun will not allow the shim on the outside of the outdrive.
Brand new gears and brand new cases with no woggled out housing should be good with one .2 shim. There are also aftermarket .3 shims if your inbetween .2 & .4.
10-08-2012 | 11:40 AM
The outside shim will not tighten the gear mesh, it will pull the outdrive out sightly putting pressure on the sun gear shim with the pin keeping the mesh consistent. If you use the .5 shim and the outside shim, there will not be enough space to get the sun gear pin through the hole. That's why AE says no outside shim when using the .5 shim. You need to let the outdrive post move in a hair to then get the pin over the thicker than designed for shim.
Also, like Cain said... not sure what's right for you. Those gears are not exactly machined pieces so some diff builds will vary. Best to dry fit and see how it feels then run it once you feel like it's correct. If your 5k rear fluid feels like 7k or 10k, the mesh is too tight.
Almost always better to start with fresh diff housing so there is no play in the outdrive... especially if you have run it for a while.
Also, like Cain said... not sure what's right for you. Those gears are not exactly machined pieces so some diff builds will vary. Best to dry fit and see how it feels then run it once you feel like it's correct. If your 5k rear fluid feels like 7k or 10k, the mesh is too tight.
Almost always better to start with fresh diff housing so there is no play in the outdrive... especially if you have run it for a while.
Last edited by fq06; 10-08-2012 at 12:38 PM.
10-08-2012 | 12:35 PM
Just got back from the track after a couple new tuning updates and the first run on the new rear Exotek hubs. These work fantastic. I found that using the 2mm spacer that it comes with and an additional 2mm spacer takes me right to the same height that using the B4.1 rear carbon hub tower I was using before I got them. I'm still using 7mm of spacers in the inner as well. I've also put in 7k diff fluid up front and 5k in the rear with the ball diff and 4 pins. It felt perfect. I ended up taking 3rd in the A-main tonight on a track I only ran once before and had no practice time. This truck is perfect now and I am very glad I gave it the chance it deserves!
And one of my sloppy pit area just for kicks!
And one of my sloppy pit area just for kicks!
10-08-2012 | 12:49 PM
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 236
I know tow out can give a wondering feel to the car and tried tow in to it also but I'm not getting that feeling anyway I have done countless set ups and like what I have now, but I know it can be better and the only thing I haven't tried yet is to add a good amount of weight on the car which I can make easy and cheap. And yes I want to try a few of the aftermarket stuff as well .
10-08-2012 | 01:07 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 398
From: Hamburg
done with the first diff now. Feels (a bit) tighter than the rear one (<- without good shimming), but without the extrem wobble at the outdrives. I used 0.1 out and 0.4 in at one side and 0.3 out + 0.4 in at the other side. I'll rebuild the rear diff tomorrow.
Last edited by Cody227; 10-08-2012 at 01:43 PM.
10-08-2012 | 06:44 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,250
Cain,
You are a fkn saint. Your patience is rock steady... I was flinching just reading it.
---------------
It looks like rain is coming in, my race season might be coming to an end this weekend.
Time to decide if i'm spending alot of money in gas to drive up to Wild Choke's place; TRCR, or go carpet touring racing for the winter. 
You are a fkn saint. Your patience is rock steady... I was flinching just reading it.
---------------
It looks like rain is coming in, my race season might be coming to an end this weekend.
Time to decide if i'm spending alot of money in gas to drive up to Wild Choke's place; TRCR, or go carpet touring racing for the winter.
Last edited by SC Shaun; 10-08-2012 at 06:57 PM.
10-08-2012 | 07:43 PM
I have seen a lot of "factory" drivers say "my car wanders, I'm putting toe out into it" and it work. It makes the car track straight because it induces scrub, and the extra toe out makes the car tun in a little crisper. It also can induce a mid corner push because of the ackerman it induces.
Because of the servo's self centering function, toe in (which in a "street" car causes the car to go straight by the same sort of tire scrub) seems like it makes the car have hyper steering center off.
On an unrelated note, after running sedans indoor on carpet for a week, I now realize what a pile of shit 4wd short course is to drive by comparison.