That is 'one' problem i've never experienced.

Just a thought but maybe adding some extra weight down low could help out with the stability?

I assembled it like you said and it has as much wobble as before:

http://imgur.com/a/7MQ16#10

//EDIT: 0.1mm under the outdrive seems to be a bit better, because it reduces the axial play.

Wow still lots of negativity on this truck. The truck performs really well up here. Anyway my question is the new FLOW esc from LRP, do you think it will be strong enough to run this truck? I'm selling my RX8 (awesome esc BTW) because I need a esc that is good with a TC for indoor season and 4WD SC for outdoor season. Any comments would be appreciated

What is your setup EXACTLY and the conditions you run on? I had the same problem on the really loose tracks we run on, on one straight if I punched it the rear end would come around enough that I could do a full spin down the straight. Going with the M2C rear toe in block system and using 3.5 degrees of rear toe really helps the truck, A LOT. Easily more controllable down straights and can power out of turns, etc. A LOT faster than before.

For what you are mentioning as requirments, The Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro or the new Revention Pro should fit the bill. I run the GT2.0 Pro essentially in all my vehicles now as its so versatile and has a small footprint relative to the RX8.

This is just my two cents, but I personally used some steering expo on my radio to cure a bit of that for me. I liked it, but there was a fine point that I had to experiment with in practice that could get me the "turn inside of them in a 180" and less twitchy at speed.

The clicking sound is under power on straights or after corners so there is minimal suspension travel. Will add the clips to be sure anyway.

Will open up the gear boxes and add shims if needed. Not sure how to determine the best "shimmage" (probably not a word )

Oil is stock; 30K front and 5K rear.

Tires AKA cityblock Hazard +3mm

Thanks for the link. Looks like something I will try. The M2C blocks as well as the center diff.

Stock FT. Much like the link to the Maifield setup that was given below.

And buy a new truck all over again?!??! Not yet but maybe if I can't fix it. Worth a shot right?

Besides, like I mentioned I have a B4.1 a B44.1 and a 2wd SC10 and like em all.... Also, from what I read this truck would suit my style and track better. But that I now doubt

Ok, have at least most of Mayfields setup including diff fluids. Only difference are the shocks fluids which he runs just slightly lower (front and back). It's really 95% the same...

Have the 20/20 pulleys and the bladder style shocks.

Your last comment is the one that keeps me awake

+ YouTube Video

Raw onboard footage from "LRP Areena"! Enjoy the Ride ;-)
(Driving without "minipins", bad traction)

All the slop is not really eliminated , most is it though..

If the gears have a lot of wear & tear ?
Maybe why you still have issues with slop ...

Give your truck a little toe out , this will improved its stability on
the straights ...

So the slop which the outer ball-bearing has is normal? Wow, it's quite much i think :0 Maybe the oil comes THROUGH the inner ball-bearing because it has no sealing? I'll try to change them to the ones in the idler-gear, it doesnt need them as much as the diff xD

KODY

You can make the out drive cups fit tight , but then your diff action will suffer .

A little oil leaking is normal , replace the O-ring seals
for a improvement if necessary....

I do have a bit of toe out on my truck also the track always has a bit of lose stuff on it so its a very low traction track I think just adding weight would help out the most to this truck for me, also help me to not be "LOSI'ED" so much.

Pointy71: Are the tires you using the hot ticket on your track?

When you say you are using 95% of the setup, is that including linkage positions from Maifields setup, the one here:

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...field_ROAR.pdf

If so on the rear, I personally would lengthen your rear turnbuckle to at least the middle hole on the hub carrier. I actually ran it full length for the conditions out here but middle on the hub since you say you have medium traction may work for you.

I would also try 1 setting lighter on the sway bars front and rear.

Usually with newbies we would configure there vehicle with more toe-in (almost excessively so) so it would track straighter down the, well, straights.

Here is what the Hudy offroad book says about Front Toe settings:

FRONT TOE
Increasing (more toe-in) • Makes car easier to drive

Decreasing
(less toe-in, or more
toe-out)
• Decreases understeer
• Increases steering at corner entry
• Faster steering response
• Less stable under acceleration
• Makes car more diffi cult to drive

I would think as you accelerate down the straight, you would want it to be more stable which according to the manual is opposite of what you would see by adding in toe out.

I posted an image of a setup i used for our very low traction stuff out here. You may find it to be useful for you. If you can't find it, let me know.

bear in mind, it uses the M2C toe in blocks, RC Shox pistons, and Center Diff. The item I would think at a minimum you will want is the M2C toe in blocks as that will give you the rear traction you need in my opinion, or something else that addes more toe in to the rear than stock 3 degrees.