I'm running yellow front and back. 32.5f and 30r oil. Yellow front bar and blue rear. vts
Seems good to me. Still roll once and a while but it's because I'm going too fast.

Hey quick question. I'm running a 4.5 Reedy 550, and a RX8. I would like to replace the Tekin with a LRP SXX TC Spec. Good idea? I just like the idea of a smaller esc.

lrp is smooth. i know some people having board isues with them tho. getting them fixed but takes a loooong time for the fix and return. lrp is my next esc i think i will try when the time comes

ps. i have the same combo as u and i love it

Could this have an effect on how fast the new bones wear out? Because someone here said he drives his CVAs much lobger than me.

So i should replace the CVA-axle, the round thing in the bone where the cva-pin comes through? (the bone i use no is only a few days old).

I ran them dry, because of the dirt. But no im driving nearly everytime at an indoor high grip carpet track, so lubing might be an option. What lube would you use?

Yes, lube. Why the parts are wearing. Dirt or no dirt, lube.
Associated or any of them... black grease. Or better, Losi great grease... like bel-ray waterproof grease.

DO IT!

i'd recommend sending the ESC to LRP first to get the update (it's free).

It's the same combo I'm running and have ZERO issues (minus the ones i've caused)

how much black grease should i use and how can it reduce the wearing?

There ya go. Just buy a new Esc and promptly ship it back to the company to get it fixed before you even run it. It will only take 4 weeks.
Yay.!!
(scarcasm)

Or wait till a new verson is released.

Just coat all the parts and service it when you do your wheel bearings... or at least every other time you clean or replace the wheel bearings. The grease will have faded away by then or have dirt contamination, either way, time to service it.

I coat the cylinder, pin, and all that then put a blob in the pocket of the cva and when you push it together to assemble it will squish a little out the sides. Wipe off excess and install.

I put some grease on every place where the parts come together and distributed it with a little hex wrench. I also put some grease to the holes of the axle and to the assembled CVA when i installed it in the car. I hope the carpet-fibres wont stick to the CVA with all that gluey grease there. Maybe the hardened steel pins i made wont brake tonight

Sounds about right.

You can wipe off the excess on the back side that is visible, but don't wipe it completely dry.

If you are using fresh parts that don't have excess play from wear, you shouldn't need anything else than Associated's stock pin. If the pins you are using are at least as strong as AE's, you will be fine. If that pin is in new parts and it breaks or wears out the cva parts, you should have stuck with AE's pin.

As you can see in the pics, the bone im using right now has also some play. Its about 4-6 race-days old. Im driving today so i can see tomorrow how much it wears out during one day. But i think i'll buy some complete new CVAs in US anyways, the front ones also have quite much play. But no sharp edge like the rear-one i showed on the pic. after im done with that i can finally concentrate more on the setup. Its very bad as it is now, but that's another topic first i need some new front tires for more steering. I think i'll buy Schumacher Minipins with DE racing offset rims

I would absolutely start with fresh parts and keep them lubed for a happy long life. Keep running woggled out (excess play) parts and you will continue to have problems. The cva's should not be eating into your tuning time, thats a part you shouldn't have to think about except every month or however often you service your bearings.

You would have to notice if it's the front end of your truck or the rear that is catching to make it tracktion roll! Maybe someone can watch you take a roll over in that corner and let you know what it's doing? or video it!

Then you could decide on sway bars or other setup changes.

What are you running for shims under the inner ball studs front and rear?

I have been hearing a variety of opinions on what the 8mm mod provides, it seems the one consistent thing I have heard and that I saw at least on the loose stuff is that it felt more planted in the rear. The vehicle also to me seemed to react a little more to ball stud height changes in the rear.

For carpet prior to running the whole 8mm mod, I went as high as 7mm under the rear ball stud to stop traction rolling. It worked like a charm. Was able to go down to 5mm.

If you are not already running 7mm under your ball stud, give that a try, then, if that doesn't work I probably would remove the 8mm risers and go from there.

For setup, on carpet I ran the kody spektrum race setup but from memory changed to blue front springs on the rear, and the ball stud height changes I mentioned.