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Old 09-28-2012 | 11:28 AM
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Welcome to 2000 pages!
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Old 09-28-2012 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Welcome to 2000 pages!
Is the thread going to end at 2012?
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Old 09-28-2012 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore
What is the toe on the 3-3 and the 3-2 stock blocks?

Cain: I'm gonna give it a try probably.
3 degree, lol. Try the 3-3 toe block for tight indoor track.

Originally Posted by xDIRTYx
Is the thread going to end at 2012?
Yes, the Mayans predicted it, lol.
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Old 09-28-2012 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain
What are you running for shims under the inner ball studs front and rear?
Originally Posted by fq06
Looks like he is saying negative (-1.5) and to know that number I'm going out on a limb to say he has a gauge
EDIT: I see in snafu's post it was originally 1.5 camber.

To flash back a page or two, -1.5 with a camber gauge may not be -1.5 as well
Yes, I have a camber gauge, a cheap RPM one, and I'm at -1.5. After reading back, am I really at -1.5? Next time I'm at the track I'll ask one of the guys that have the expensive ones and see if it's true.

I have 7 MM under the Rear Ball studs.
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Old 09-28-2012 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Snafujg
Yes, I have a camber gauge, a cheap RPM one, and I'm at -1.5. After reading back, am I really at -1.5? Next time I'm at the track I'll ask one of the guys that have the expensive ones and see if it's true.

I have 7 MM under the Rear Ball studs.
Yeah, see if someone has a setup station, your more than likely off. If it was off consistently on all 4 corners, not a big deal. But when you are measuring off the wheel there are too many variables to get a correct measurement with the wheel probably not square and the tire that you rest the gauge on is far from precise. So your probably -1 / -1.8 / -0.7 / -1 or whatever.
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Old 09-28-2012 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Snafujg
Yes, I have a camber gauge, a cheap RPM one, and I'm at -1.5. After reading back, am I really at -1.5? Next time I'm at the track I'll ask one of the guys that have the expensive ones and see if it's true.

I have 7 MM under the Rear Ball studs.
I'd take off the 8mm mod and see how it feels then.
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Old 09-28-2012 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by fq06
Yeah, see if someone has a setup station, your more than likely off. If it was off consistently on all 4 corners, not a big deal. But when you are measuring off the wheel there are too many variables to get a correct measurement with the wheel probably not square and the tire that you rest the gauge on is far from precise. So your probably -1 / -1.8 / -0.7 / -1 or whatever.
I use 4 new wheels with no rubber mounted to set toe and camber. Easier to get a read on the blank wheel, and no rubber to bind on the table.
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Old 09-28-2012 | 02:26 PM
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Quick update: no selfmade cva-pin broke today whats in that awesome grease that can reduce the wearing so much? xD and i got some new tires, now i can concentrate on the setup again. With old tires i had too much grip in the rear and too less in front and now its the other way round. xD Maybe i'll start with the setup from another driver here who has always new tires and go from there.
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Old 09-28-2012 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Cody227
Quick update: no selfmade cva-pin broke today whats in that awesome grease that can reduce the wearing so much? xD and i got some new tires, now i can concentrate on the setup again. With old tires i had too much grip in the rear and too less in front and now its the other way round. xD Maybe i'll start with the setup from another driver here who has always new tires and go from there.
In sedan they used to use different outdrive/universal/CVD/CVA/double joint universal combos to change how much grip you make and where.

Maybe what this truck needs is different CVA grease!
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Old 09-28-2012 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by n8b
I use 4 new wheels with no rubber mounted to set toe and camber. Easier to get a read on the blank wheel, and no rubber to bind on the table.
And after you've driven half a day and hit a bunch of pipe and other immovable objects? You never have the need to change your camber settings for track condition changes or different tracks? Maybe you have a set of wheels in your pit box without tires to make your changes with, but it's still inaccurate.
Camber gauges are good enough for most though. But once you have used a station, you don't go back.
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Old 09-28-2012 | 03:38 PM
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On the setup station deal.How many pros have you seen using one.To be honest most Ive seen setting up there cars use a shock oil bottle or something of that nature.As long as what ever your using is consistant it doesn't really matter.I've used rpm camber and toe guages for 10+ years and never had an issue.The most important thing is to know when you need more or less camber or toe and how it affects the handling of the car.
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Old 09-28-2012 | 03:47 PM
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Exactly all the pros at my track just use bottles or something square and they eyeball it. They always beat us every time, there getting like 16.4 and my best is 18.3
We were talking about this at the track yesterday. They agree it's not as critical as some may think...
Yes it would be nice to have a neard station but not needed to win or have a dialed car
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Old 09-28-2012 | 04:31 PM
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True, not needed to win. Especially pros, they could win with -.9 / -1.1 / -.7 / -1... maybe even throw in a 0

Speaking of which, wouldn't a bottle be zero? Secret camber setting their not sharing on the setup sheets?

I have one from when I ran nitro TC, so I use it. Every one I have put on the station is off.
It is a chunk of change, I would not spend the $ on it either if I hadn't known the benefit from TC. Granted, it is a requirement for onroad to be competitive and offroad does not need anywhere near the precision, but I have it so why not.

Last edited by fq06; 09-28-2012 at 05:32 PM.
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Old 09-28-2012 | 04:35 PM
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well i Do wish I had one tho..
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Old 09-28-2012 | 04:47 PM
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That's -1° or as close as your going to get from a series of suspension compressions on a sct.
Not -.8 or -1.2

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