Are you using the plastic under body ? If so, that is always going to cause bad chassis slap. Ditch and get the AE or JCon chassis film instead.

For the standard AE v2 shocks, you shouldn't need to venture too far from 35 front / 30 rear.

Thanks for the link. I plan to try one out. I especially like the warning label...LOL

I have been running the 44 for several years. I have built at least 5 44.1's or more. What I like the most is its ready to "race" it really needs no upgrade. But I would say if you want to do something worth the money is to purchase the 12mm hex's on the rear. I like the set up I run but if I need some push on power I keep some .05 rear hubs on hand. I definitely want to try the new avid slipper. I think it would be worth the money. The 44.1 slipper wont handle anything faster than 6.5 with out replacing it often. I have tried the upgraded thick pads and they wont last either. They were worse for some reason. Now it could be the material? The old yellow pads lasted longer.

I appreciate your input. By no means was I insulting Avid, other companies do the same kind of thing, so avid isn't alone.

I have talked to several racers who use it and it seems like a phenomenal upgrade. I still haven't pulled the trigger, but I hear much more pros than cons.

As for the triad slipper, I will wait on more feedback before I make a decision. Ive never been a bandwagon type, so I'll await some reviews before I make a decision.


Un4,
Yea, I've liked that about AE cars, just put it on the track and race it. It's the "Ron Popeil" Of rc set it and forget it. I stick with AE cause it just works!




Momo

Thank you, when that warning label dawned on me I got so excited, it was like sitting in a math exam just looking at a problem and then bam the answer hits you in the face. It will be part of our branding for a long time I feel.

Sorry for being dumb, maybe... can you elaborate?

thanks
Paul

I'm guessing that he means if you're running the stock lexan chassis protector it's going to be loud and make your chassis slap seem worse (noise) than it really is.

ha - no influence on peformance... just noise then. thanks.

was that was the original question was about, really???

original question, no that was referring to actual chassis slap and not the noisy under tray. Which if you for some reason leave out the center mounting screws makes it sound like the car is gonna break in half

that's what I thought... so the answer above was completely off-base and hence delivered in a very peremptory manner still. The internet in 2012 just kills me...

hard to diagnose your issue from behind a keyboard but yes, try stiffer oil first and then pistons #2 or even #3. That of course assumes your shock has enough oil in it to start with and that the rear suspension isn't binding

Paul

In your experience how many runs would you estimate before the pads need replacing ? Can they be scraped or sanded and freshened up ? I run a 6.5, and I'm starting to wonder if it's time to replace my slipper pad. Seems like it's really hard to get it set 'just right' as of late. Been quite some time since I replaced the pads to be honest

Thanks

Use 800 grit on the pad and disc in figure 8 motion. I rough up the disc when I build the kit. I flip the pad when it feels weak and then pitch them after using both sides.

So, am I alone in running my slipper as loose as possible on this car? It is the only way to avoid destroying diffs all the time.

I run vented hubs and high-torque pads, then only crank it down about a half a revolution from where the pads are loose. Seems like it's better to have it scream than bark or grind...

mmh

some people have lots of diff problems, while others have rock solid ones... I would do a full rebuild if I were you... I've run mine with a normal-to-stiff slipper setup and the diffs would hold fine. a diff that's slipping uncontrollably is typically a diff that's got graphite lube on the main balls...

Oddly, I might recommend the stock ones at first, depending on your history with similar cars. Diffs are the weak spot and ceramic balls will destroy them even faster if you do something wrong.

It was my first "upgrade" and definitely helps avoid those constant popped links. However, I found that they get sloppy faster than the stock ones, so keep that in mind and plan to replace all of them periodically (probably along with ball studs, since they also get sloppy).

The SC104X4 slipper will not fit. The part you're looking for is ASC7495, which is a vented V2 slipper hub. Spur gears, slipper hubs, and slipper pads are the same as those used on the 2wd AE cars.

No clue, either way. I'm not a doctor.

Just run regular (ASC9603, included with kit) or high-torque (ASC91170) slipper pads. You could also try garolite pads, but they're pricey.