When the B44.

When the B44.1 came out the B44 dropped in price (299.00)..... Hmmmmmm maybe something new or just wishful thinking...Losi Parts house dropped to 299.99 as well was 349.99 i believe.... The Losi car does exist, who knows on the release. Last year they brought the 22T to the nationals maybe they bring the new 4x4 buggy this year. The 44.1 is awesome it would be hard to improve......

Thanks for the info.


- Are the Jco Ballcups worth it? RPM Std or Long better?
- With my last one, I doubled up the front tower, is it necessary to do that with the new 44.1?
- Is the Ballast weight for the front or rear? I presume its center under the drive-lines?
- Are the diff shims the same, i have some left over from my last B44.
- What body comes with the B44.1, is it a Jco shell or PL? (I'd prolly run the Jco Finisher body.


Regarding batteries- I have a Venom sponsorship, so I would likely be running their Saddles. For those folks racing mod, What is your preferred battery choice power and rating wise?
Venom offers the following: (50c 2s 4500mah) OR ( 30c 2S 4200mah)
Most of my racing would be On a tight indoor Clay High Traction track.



MOmo

i use the rpm cause that is the easiest to get from my local hobby shop,the ballast is for the rear between the packs, i don't use it some do.i never did the 2 front towers but my latest one came with it i don't know if it is needed,motor i run all tekin now i have the new gen2 6.5 and i run my own HVR saddles 5300 60c

u dont need to double up the towers, the b44.1 comes with a thicker tower than the orignal

The losi natural (white) ballcups from the XXX series are really good. They are a very long cup so they add a bit of extra strength to the turnbuckles. The new Lunsford cups are also very nice.

I have the best results with the Associated ball cups. They can be snapped on with a pinch from a marshal or on looker. I have seen countless times when people give up trying to pop on a ball cup and then give up and hand the car to the driver. I have even tried and said many times. How the hell did something so hard to snap back on pop off in the first place. Losi ball cups mainly.

They will all end up bending breaking or popping off. The inner mouth wears down and pops off. But the outer never wears and so popping back on is difficult.
AE's are designed to pop on easier, they have a wider mouth on the outside. But the inner is precise till it wears.

Same as all the other brands.
Never had any worse results than any other basher type that seem to be to tight and not fit freely. If I have one that starts pooping off frequently I just put on a new one. I would rather a ball cup pop off than snap a ball stud or steering knuckle. I have seen this time and time again.

I would stick with the AE set up. Good luck none the less. There all about the same in 1/10 scale but to me AE are the best over all design and performance ball cups IMO.

I read some talk of diff gear shimming. And someone posted 9/10 shims in there diff. That's to much to tight and will result in inadvertently wearing the gear just the same but from to much mesh. You will actually get a dust grit in the grease as it runs and wear the diff out faster. Some may have seen this on the inner casing doing a rebuild?

I put all the provided box stock shims on the gear side. And I have put down some diff killing ring munching and spit out the the diff ball power to my diffs and they have defeated the evil 5.5 turn Dragon time and time again.

Put four good spots of clear diff grease on the gear and pinion shim all 6 shims to the gear side and don't look back.....

Breaks are the # one diff gear killer. To much at mod speeds and there crunched. I hate it when I see the rear tires leave the ground from over breaking and then the gear blows out and the driver comes off squealing these AE diffs suck.
Its not that the diff gear sucks, its your breaks are strong enough to stop a freight train...LOL

Keep in mind slippers are a diffs best friend on power while the slipper AND breaks work as a team off power.....

Okay I wont bore you guys all day. Later.

I'm guessing a B44.2 which might include big bore shocks...

Giving the other offerings from other companies, I don't think people are going to want to buy a buggy just to have to replace the shocks right way..

they still break once in a while tho (only part I've broken on the 44.1)

Yep I think they have seen the righting on the wall by now. We all want BB. Now if they use a larger shock shaft which is all I really wanted in the first place I will be happy.
I am ready to gear up and get a kit for the winter so I am holding out till the last second before getting a kit. Yet 50.00 off is a good deal. And if the new kit is higher priced 300 plus the cost of BB's might be okay seems how you could sell or use the V2's as a back up. Heck a set of new V2's sold for 50 gets the kit down to 250 plus the cost of a set of BB's. Hmmmmm?

anyone try the JC lowered wing mount?

You do realize though, that going with a larger diameter shock shaft results in increase 'pack' in the shock because of the additional shock shaft volume you are shoving into the shock body. Which is why ideally you would want a shaft shaft that was as thin as possible without breaking.

Currently, I have had any issues breaking shaft at the threads and the only times I have were worthy of it!

I couldn't agree more. Not that its an issue but its really the only thing on the kit I see that needs or could be improved. I break maybe 2 or 3 a season. And that's mostly due to practicing in traffic or pushing it to hard. Then its and eyelet shaft and an A-arm in most cases with a trip around the track trying to find the spring cup and spring. I would like to see the A-arm breaking only and not the shaft. Simple fix with out the cup and spring hunt.

My guess is maybe the b44.1 kit will be updated before the b4.1. I suspect since the b44.1 is still a contender and somewhat state of the art, they will update the b44.1 first, including big bores and some other minor upgrades and call it something like the b44.1 worlds, etc. The b4.1 was take longer to update because with the current 2wd trend of aluminum chassis, big bores, and 22 like styling, it would be a hard sell to just upgrade the shocks on the b4.1 and call it a new or upgraded model. IMO.