9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
08-08-2012, 03:18 PM
I used the stock shafts for over a year and never had one come loose. The setscrews were not loose. The point looked like about 75% of the cup tip was in contact with the pinion. I'm wondering if the setscrews were a little too soft and the points pounded out.
I've been active in RC since the early 80's. I'm 99.9% sure it wasn't an installation error.
I've been active in RC since the early 80's. I'm 99.9% sure it wasn't an installation error.
08-08-2012, 04:14 PM
Purchased a used SCTE, now I need to buy a pinion because they are Mod 1
08-08-2012, 04:18 PM
on the set screws for the tekno drive shafts. F/R.. if you look at it when your tightening things down, IN YOUR HAND you will notice that it gets tight even before it bottoms out on the ring and pinion shaft. so when you think you have it tight its not. you need to really use an L shaped allen and twist the shit out of it to get it to tighten, its made tight with a slightly tapered thread.. it starts to feel like it touching but its not. Hope this helps
08-08-2012, 04:21 PM
08-08-2012, 04:23 PM
Are they available in 1/8 and 5mm? I hope to get one from hobby shop tomorrow if not it will be a few days for an order.
08-08-2012, 04:24 PM
08-08-2012, 04:26 PM
take it apart all the way, check for any binding when putting it back together. Remember how (IF ANY shims are there) there is no way thats better then any other. and it helps with understanding how it goes..Make sure bearings are all good and have fun
08-08-2012, 04:56 PM
on the set screws for the tekno drive shafts. F/R.. if you look at it when your tightening things down, IN YOUR HAND you will notice that it gets tight even before it bottoms out on the ring and pinion shaft. so when you think you have it tight its not. you need to really use an L shaped allen and twist the shit out of it to get it to tighten, its made tight with a slightly tapered thread.. it starts to feel like it touching but its not. Hope this helps
08-08-2012, 05:02 PM
08-08-2012, 08:06 PM
Suspended
i would bet the 80 amp esc wont handle the 4600. i had the 4600 with the hobbywing sct esc and it would shut it down, i think the motor is drawing to many amps. when i switched to a hobbywing motor prob went away. but either way 80amp is not enough for a beast of a motor like the tekin 4600
Also, looked this up. The Pro4 4600kv motor at maximum burst is around 126-130 amps. Hobbywing ESC has a max burst of 380 amp.
Last edited by Biggie85; 08-08-2012 at 08:27 PM.
08-08-2012, 10:25 PM
So what batteries is everyone running in their scte?
Made a post a few pages back about my RX8 pro 4 4600 puffing batteries so I am looking for something that can handle the amp draw of this combo. My gens ace puff pretty easily and my turnigy nanotech 6600 65c are coming off slightly puffed also. Not a huge amount and they shrink back down but I dont trust the batteries when this is happening considering many people are saying a lipo battery should not puff at all, even after hard use, so I am curious what sort of success others are having in this vehicle with that combo and what batteries they are using.
I did order a revolectrix 6000 60c to give a go, considering they make big high end chargers and most of their product is geared toward high current draw helicopter applications, I figure these must surely hold up.....but curious to what others are using.
Also on the topic of batteries, I did pull one of the nanotechs apart to inspect the cells and they were perfectly flat, but the case itself you could see wasnt as flat as when I first got them. Does this indicate that maybe the cells aren't actually puffing? If so why does the case not appear as flat as the day they arrived?
Made a post a few pages back about my RX8 pro 4 4600 puffing batteries so I am looking for something that can handle the amp draw of this combo. My gens ace puff pretty easily and my turnigy nanotech 6600 65c are coming off slightly puffed also. Not a huge amount and they shrink back down but I dont trust the batteries when this is happening considering many people are saying a lipo battery should not puff at all, even after hard use, so I am curious what sort of success others are having in this vehicle with that combo and what batteries they are using.
I did order a revolectrix 6000 60c to give a go, considering they make big high end chargers and most of their product is geared toward high current draw helicopter applications, I figure these must surely hold up.....but curious to what others are using.
Also on the topic of batteries, I did pull one of the nanotechs apart to inspect the cells and they were perfectly flat, but the case itself you could see wasnt as flat as when I first got them. Does this indicate that maybe the cells aren't actually puffing? If so why does the case not appear as flat as the day they arrived?
08-08-2012, 10:33 PM
I dunno, I ran it hard twice tonight for 6 and 8 minutes. Never shut off or bogged out. Ill run it until i have a problem with it, then I'll switch it out.
Also, looked this up. The Pro4 4600kv motor at maximum burst is around 126-130 amps. Hobbywing ESC has a max burst of 380 amp.
Also, looked this up. The Pro4 4600kv motor at maximum burst is around 126-130 amps. Hobbywing ESC has a max burst of 380 amp.
08-08-2012, 10:34 PM
I know the 4 pole motors are awsome I use to run Tekin Rx8 4600 pro4. I'm getting back into hobby and running 4x4 again. What's some takes on maybe running Sc4x 4.5 so it's easier on batteries or perhaps a 4000kv run good?
08-08-2012, 10:44 PM
I am using both Gens Ace 5000/50c and 5300/65c with a RX8/4600 and haven't puffed one of the 6 batteries I rotate between me and my sons XXX-SCT. And several times I have run them to cutoff, although I try not to make it a habit as my motor is scorching hot by then.
08-08-2012, 11:02 PM
I just took a drill to the chassis and put lots of holes in it to lighten it. I managed to get down to about 4 lbs after drilling almost every part. It is really hard to drill out the center of drive shafts, getting straight enough of a shot is just annoying.
Then I got to figuring that if I just need to remove material, I should make parts thinner too. So I got out a file and took the chassis to half thickness, I even got to smooth out the bottom from all the 8th scale rocks I'd been hitting.
After also cutting out holes for most of the body, I was still able to put on a big wing in the back and some air splitters up front to come in at just under 4lbs.
Oh, and don't forget the most important part, carbon fibre pistons. Weight savings and more responsiveness due to meshing with the oil and emulsifying the carbon into the silicon to make the oil even lighter too!
Then I got to figuring that if I just need to remove material, I should make parts thinner too. So I got out a file and took the chassis to half thickness, I even got to smooth out the bottom from all the 8th scale rocks I'd been hitting.
After also cutting out holes for most of the body, I was still able to put on a big wing in the back and some air splitters up front to come in at just under 4lbs.
Oh, and don't forget the most important part, carbon fibre pistons. Weight savings and more responsiveness due to meshing with the oil and emulsifying the carbon into the silicon to make the oil even lighter too!
