5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
08-02-2012 | 11:16 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 451
From: tx rchq
thanks fq6 i tried the 15 it was good and raised the limiter back to 70 or 80 then used ept at 85 and speed at 70 pt was beater but far from praised
got in the MIP pistons at least 30min install thanks to second shocks i can swop back ez but i don't think they are coming off i dropped 3s off my average lap times and most are better than my best from last night of a 33s it was like the truck wonted to be Divine fast less grip but control no more ice skating more like a losi but faster i used 35w in front and 30 in the rear ae oil
got in the MIP pistons at least 30min install thanks to second shocks i can swop back ez but i don't think they are coming off i dropped 3s off my average lap times and most are better than my best from last night of a 33s it was like the truck wonted to be Divine fast less grip but control no more ice skating more like a losi but faster i used 35w in front and 30 in the rear ae oil
08-02-2012 | 11:38 PM
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 92
From: Northern Arizona
Looks way too tight to me, that'll give you drag (and a lot of fine, black plastic dust). The first setting was fine, maybe a tiny tad tighter. You'll want to be able to wiggle the spur back and forth a very small amount before it touches the pinion.
But as others said, get a new pinion.. that's likely half the reason for the shredded spurs right there.
But as others said, get a new pinion.. that's likely half the reason for the shredded spurs right there.
08-03-2012 | 12:29 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 398
From: Hamburg
Good morning!
Do u guys think it would work to replace the clicker-spring with a little tube made of brass, to lock it without the need of glueing or additional tuningparts? I'm student and have to pay all my parts myself, so i'm looking for a low-cost alternative to try wether fulltime 4wd is good for me or not. The clicker parts are quite expensive in germany
Greets cody227
Do u guys think it would work to replace the clicker-spring with a little tube made of brass, to lock it without the need of glueing or additional tuningparts? I'm student and have to pay all my parts myself, so i'm looking for a low-cost alternative to try wether fulltime 4wd is good for me or not. The clicker parts are quite expensive in germany
Greets cody227
08-03-2012 | 02:35 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 275
Good morning!
Do u guys think it would work to replace the clicker-spring with a little tube made of brass, to lock it without the need of glueing or additional tuningparts? I'm student and have to pay all my parts myself, so i'm looking for a low-cost alternative to try wether fulltime 4wd is good for me or not. The clicker parts are quite expensive in germany
Greets cody227
Do u guys think it would work to replace the clicker-spring with a little tube made of brass, to lock it without the need of glueing or additional tuningparts? I'm student and have to pay all my parts myself, so i'm looking for a low-cost alternative to try wether fulltime 4wd is good for me or not. The clicker parts are quite expensive in germany
Greets cody227
08-03-2012 | 02:52 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 398
From: Hamburg
Not for me. I tightened down the nut as much as possible and it didnt work. The clicker clicks even when the car is in the air (with fulltime 4WD) and i break a little bit. And the clicker is not damaged or something like that. I read often that the clicker dont work and usually they glue the clicker. There is also NO diference in handling with the locked clicker.
08-03-2012 | 03:02 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 275
Not for me. I tightened down the nut as much as possible and it didnt work. The clicker clicks even when the car is in the air (with fulltime 4WD) and i break a little bit. And the clicker is not damaged or something like that. I read often that the clicker dont work and usually they glue the clicker. There is also NO diference in handling with the locked clicker.
The clicker would also click if you spin both front wheels backwards by hand if it was slipping through.
08-03-2012 | 03:10 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 398
From: Hamburg
I'm pretty sure it's not the belt. It clicks also when i hold the car in the hand, hit the throttle for a moment and then let the car roll out in the air. Same issue when i hold the rear-tires and turn the front-tires by hand.
08-03-2012 | 04:12 AM
Has it been doing this fo some time ?, yours sounds to be on the very worn side.
08-03-2012 | 04:16 AM
Can someone help me with a belt issue? I have it geared 20 tooth rear an 19 tooth front for overdrive, an my belt became loose or thats what I thought. I had the tensioners fully tightened an it was barely enough to keep the belt tight enough. So I bought a new belt an put it in an it is no tighter then the old belt. I still have to run the tensioners fully tightened to keep it barely tight enough. Anybody know why?!
08-03-2012 | 04:25 AM
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 8
Looks way too tight to me, that'll give you drag (and a lot of fine, black plastic dust). The first setting was fine, maybe a tiny tad tighter. You'll want to be able to wiggle the spur back and forth a very small amount before it touches the pinion.
But as others said, get a new pinion.. that's likely half the reason for the shredded spurs right there.
But as others said, get a new pinion.. that's likely half the reason for the shredded spurs right there.
08-03-2012 | 05:00 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 398
From: Hamburg
@blown: that may sound a bit ungrateful, but i dont think it's the diff. The clicks come only when i spin the wheels in one direction, not in the other. The sound is also different from when i had the diff-issue in the rear. I'll check the diff, but i'm really sure its the clicker. The sound, and the other symptoms are typical for that. Anyway, do u think the brass tube will sustain (i dont know if its the right word) the forces from the clicker? Just for testing-porpuses.
08-03-2012 | 06:18 AM
@blown: that may sound a bit ungrateful, but i dont think it's the diff. The clicks come only when i spin the wheels in one direction, not in the other. The sound is also different from when i had the diff-issue in the rear. I'll check the diff, but i'm really sure its the clicker. The sound, and the other symptoms are typical for that. Anyway, do u think the brass tube will sustain (i dont know if its the right word) the forces from the clicker? Just for testing-porpuses.