This is from JC TheGuide.
Less Overall Steering:

Front shock out on arm -check

Thicker front shock oil - using the 35 weight kit oil ( some guys at the track using 40 weight)

Stiffer front spring- yellows on the front

Thicker oil in front diff - 30k front diff oil.

Thicker front swaybar - 2.2 mm sway in the front

More rear toe-in - std 3 deg with zero deg hubs

Long rear upper link - it shortened with the 8mm mod , used to be inside tower and middle hub.

Raise front upper link on tower - its at 3mm, I will raid it to 5mm tonight.

I didn't catch this before, but if your running 30k oil in the front diff your probably running the slipper, the C-Diff should help keep you inline on the straights. May be money better spent than the STRC .5° toe hub.

The strc part is thirty something and the C-Diff is about double that but worth it IMO.

yes, I am using the vts 3 disk slipper.

Im sure this has been asked many times so heres one more lol. Why are so many people selling their 4x4 SC10 and getting the losi SCTE? Im looking for a 4x4 and im undecided on which to get. Im leaning towards the losi only because it does seem to be a better option. I dont care for the belt and its light weight of the sc10. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

I was the same as you. I got the factory team and am so glad I did. I run indoor clay tracks and it is dialed with the Cody setup. I wouldn't get one unless its a ft tho. Otherwise you may dump even more money in it to get up to ft spects. If I ran on 1/8 outdoor tracks I would give the losi a try. The two trucks have 2 different driving styles I think. You can "losi" people with the losi tho... Haha

yeah, some guy at the track was asking about my truck. Said he wanted to get the rtr and race it. I told him what you just said, get the FT or it will cost you more. The sway bars alone are $40.

I race at a indoor clay track myself... and i see a lot of losi guys bullying the sc10's around. I personally like the look of the sc10 and its reputation on the track... but then again, losi is great too lol.

Unfortunately, not the case around here....AE might be good support, but LHS is a Losi/Traxxas house... and 2 out of the 4 guys that switched dropped 2 seconds off their lap times on the first raceday after switching...

It just gives me all the more drive/desire to get back out there and start kicking their tails...

Going to Full Throttle RC Raceway in 2 weeks... let's see how well I do this time. At the Motodome in April, I was right in the middle of the pack....

it is all about flavor of the month. I have seen the AE to Losi to AE swap a lot over the years. There are normally 2 types of drivers. Those that like forgiving cars(ones that push) and those that like cars that turn. I forgot, also the people that buy anything new, lol. AE cars always turn and in my opinion Losi's always push. The Matt Francis XXXT was nice though. This is a generalization for sure, but that is normally the issue. At my track most of the guys are AE guys. Why? Because Kinwald races here and everyone wants to be like him. When he had an Xfactor, they all had it too. it is comical as hell. But often the fast guy leads the rest in what to buy. nationally the sc4x4 is winning a ton. But then people say that because of the Ryan's, and not the car. If you can try to drive them both and see which you like best. The sc10 4x4 is difficult for me, but I am learning more about tuning than I ever needed too before. And i hope this will aid me with other cars in the future.

A couple weeks ago, I posted on here and on the RCShox thread about my rear diff binding when I tighten the slipper spring. This happens with both the V2 center diff and the original factory slipper. Before I tighten the spring, the diff spins freely. Once I tighten the nut 1 turn, just putting a little pressure on the spring, the diff starts to bind.

Here's what I've done so far:
Triple-Checked I have the screws in the right spot on the case
Backed off screws 1/2 to a full turn so they aren't over-tightened
Replaced all the bearings in the transmission with Avid bearings
Replaced the Diff Housing
Installed the .5mm shims from AE in the diff
Replaced the Rear Transmission Case
Installed FT Rear Shock Tower

Top shaft is not bent. Any other ideas?? This is very annoying that I can't figure this out. Everything is fine until I go to tighten that spring.

You installed it the wrong way around. That'll cause exactly what you describe.

Sounds more like an incompetent user. I've been using them for several months on stock rims with no issues whatsoever. You're not supposed to tighten them until the rim falls apart.

So let me get this straight. When you tighten the rear slipper nut, the rear tranny locks up? I assume the front is fine? If i had to guess, I would say you somehow missed something when you built the kit. A bushing or shim somewhere around the slipper plates and shaft is causing the bind. Try pulling off the rear tranny and leave the slipper attached. Remove the belt. Try to spin the spur gear and see if it binds. If it does, leave the slipper attached and take apart the rear diff case and remove the diff. Try to spin it again. if it still binds, remove the middle gear and try to spin, if it still binds, you will know for sure it is the shaft and slipper assembly that is wrong. The inside sliper plate should not be rubbing against anything but the slipper pad. If your missing a part, it might be binding on the case or the motor plate. Just systematically slows disassemble the rear tranny until you find the binding peace.

They are faster in more hands. An SC10 4x4 is like a sword; If you can't wield it, you'll just hurt yourself. Losi's and Durango's, Slashes even are blunt weapons; swing and connect. The SC10 4x4 in the trained hand is faster imho. But it requires 'that' driver who drives on that edge. My "Toy"Slash is pulling off better laps now. Is that because Traxxas knows how to make better race trucks? No, it's how it drives and how I drive working together. (and the extra 800.00 bolted to it. ) Some people can't "link" with their AE 4x4. I've honestly had enough of you sideways bashing them because they just need to 'be better' or "figure out why they can't drive the best truck in existence as fast as me". You link with your Sc104x4. Congratulations.

This is another WC-pile. Having some AE cool dudes at TRCR does not make the company 'realiable'. (The beginning of this SC10 4x4 was anything but reliable.) I've had nothing but trouble with AE in all service respects. Customer Service personally and professionally. They have gone downhill on service in only the last 2 years. I hope to see that change because as it stands I am thinning out my AE fleet. I'd rather spend money elsewhere atm. (personally speaking)

Ye, Bro. I'm sorry but- 'Ur doin it wrong.' - Traxxas hasn't done anything wrong.

I have not personally had any issues with AE's customer support. Actually, I have never had an issue with any RC companies RC support. I have not had to deal with the Chinese hobby shops yet, but I just assume that will go horrible. Novak, Tekin, LRP, AE, Losi, Lundsford and many others are very good. This is a small sport and you cant really afford to be bad and stay in business. In most cases the support racers need, LHS support for the products we use. In fact, the only support issues I have ever had in this hobby were with the some of the LHS and the tracks they maintain. Thus many of these shops and track are gone, because they never listened to the racers that supported them. I would love to buy my parts from the LHS where I race, but they dont have what I need 75% o the time. Not really their fault, their old shop burned down last year and they are trying to recover.


Coyote,
you are right about one thing, the driver and car need to be in sync. That is why I said he should try both if he can and then make a judgement call. If you are new to racing a more forgiving car will typically feel better. It really comes down to owning and racing a car you enjoy. The hobby is too expensive to race something you hate.