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Old 07-10-2012 | 04:07 PM
  #26341  
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Under the Hood of Brian Kinwald's Factory Team SC10 4x4

http://www.teamassociated.com/news/a...Team_SC10_4x4/



BK SETUP SHEET

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...d_Standard.pdf
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Old 07-10-2012 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
So let me get this straight. When you tighten the rear slipper nut, the rear tranny locks up? I assume the front is fine? If i had to guess, I would say you somehow missed something when you built the kit. A bushing or shim somewhere around the slipper plates and shaft is causing the bind. Try pulling off the rear tranny and leave the slipper attached. Remove the belt. Try to spin the spur gear and see if it binds. If it does, leave the slipper attached and take apart the rear diff case and remove the diff. Try to spin it again. if it still binds, remove the middle gear and try to spin, if it still binds, you will know for sure it is the shaft and slipper assembly that is wrong. The inside sliper plate should not be rubbing against anything but the slipper pad. If your missing a part, it might be binding on the case or the motor plate. Just systematically slows disassemble the rear tranny until you find the binding peace.

The front spins freely, until I tighten the rear. Then the front is binding. It's not to the point where you can't turn it, but it's not as free as it was prior to tightening. Here's a link to a youtube video that I posted before that shows what I'm talking about:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmfyJxcYv2E

This is with the belt undone. Front spins, back binds. I'll try to take it apart piece by piece.
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Old 07-10-2012 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Snafujg
The front spins freely, until I tighten the rear. Then the front is binding. It's not to the point where you can't turn it, but it's not as free as it was prior to tightening. Here's a link to a youtube video that I posted before that shows what I'm talking about:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmfyJxcYv2E

This is with the belt undone. Front spins, back binds. I'll try to take it apart piece by piece.
I am sorry I would love to help you trouble shoot this, but I am confused. That video was with the belt OFF? When you tighten the slipper spring with the belt OFF the front binds? I know I am missing something, because once the belt is off the front has nothing to do with the slipper.
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Old 07-10-2012 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Jake S
Under the Hood of Brian Kinwald's Factory Team SC10 4x4

http://www.teamassociated.com/news/a...Team_SC10_4x4/



BK SETUP SHEET

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...d_Standard.pdf
Things I noticed. 2 deg toe OUT. Like cherry suggested. But a 1.5mm sway up front? thats a first one for me, I have never seen it that light up front. Was he using the AE slipper? Wheel base long? Does this stabilize the truck? I know if you move the hubs forward it is more traction for the rear, so I would assume moving them back is less rear traction? 60 grams of weight at the servo. He has been doing the 8mm mod for over a year now I think, he must like it.
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Old 07-10-2012 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Things I noticed. 2 deg toe OUT. Like cherry suggested. But a 1.5mm sway up front? thats a first one for me, I have never seen it that light up front. Was he using the AE slipper? Wheel base long? Does this stabilize the truck? I know if you move the hubs forward it is more traction for the rear, so I would assume moving them back is less rear traction? 60 grams of weight at the servo. He has been doing the 8mm mod for over a year now I think, he must like it.
I run 1.5 front 1.8 rear fro sway bars and love. I also run 70G up front. I think I should be winning races but no! Apparently you have to know how to drive to do that.
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Old 07-10-2012 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
I run 1.5 front 1.8 rear fro sway bars and love. I also run 70G up front. I think I should be winning races but no! Apparently you have to know how to drive to do that.
Yeah, adding weight is pretty simple, I will probably try that this week. I will also try the toe out. What I like about his setup is the lack of 30000 dollars worth of option parts. Its mostly stock. I am sure he did something to those shocks tho.... he always drills them, lol.
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Old 07-10-2012 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I am sorry I would love to help you trouble shoot this, but I am confused. That video was with the belt OFF? When you tighten the slipper spring with the belt OFF the front binds? I know I am missing something, because once the belt is off the front has nothing to do with the slipper.
No, the back binds. With the belt off, the front is fine. In the video, the back is on the left and front on the right.
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Old 07-10-2012 | 05:54 PM
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What kind of results can I expect from running a front and/or rear sway bar? Do most people run them on the truck?
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Old 07-10-2012 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Snafujg
No, the back binds. With the belt off, the front is fine. In the video, the back is on the left and front on the right.
ok, then my original post is good. tighten the slipped and take apart like I said. I suspect the top shaft and slipper are binding.
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Old 07-10-2012 | 06:27 PM
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I also see a lot of people running the yellow front spring on the rear shock. Does this also work or do you recommend this same setup with the factory team sc10? I know the shocks are different on the ft and don't know if people run the same yellow front spring setup on the back.

Thanks again!
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Old 07-10-2012 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I ran on an indoor high bite track this past week and it seemed like it was less of an issue. I normally run on and outdoor wet clay track. So in your opinion where should the weight be added? and now much
Well it depends where you have room, my friend has 1.5-2oz up by the servo and another 1.5-2 oz at the rear of the tub and his truck is way calmer than mine. Its a situation where my truck can be faster on a perfect lap but his will be more consistent over the course of a race. I think I might pickup an exotek to use for outdoors its not that hard to swap the center chassis in and out depending on where I am running.

I personally like how light the truck is indoors, our track is small and has a very tight infield so the razor sharp handling is great.
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Old 07-10-2012 | 07:08 PM
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Does trimming the rear bumper really add anything? I see kinwald did it, as well as a few other people.
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Old 07-10-2012 | 07:14 PM
  #26353  
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Saves the body. I don't even run the rear bumper. Saves 5 screws and about a minute in in-between heat diff rebuilds and saves weight from the rear.
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Old 07-10-2012 | 07:16 PM
  #26354  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Does trimming the rear bumper really add anything? I see kinwald did it, as well as a few other people.
I trimmed mine to keep the rear of the body from tearing so quickly.

I run the T-Bone bumper now, it sticks further out and does not flex as much as the stock bumper so I have not had any problems with the body getting torn up by the bumper.
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Old 07-10-2012 | 07:22 PM
  #26355  
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Ah, so there is a purpose. I thought it was just stylish. So it saves the body huh. I am all about saving money lol. Gogo dremal demolition.
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