Not really

you can't move the weight forward as a saddle pack inline brings ..

Because you never know how much current the motor is going to pull until you have it in the car and running.

In a Savage XS Flux, the Castle 1410 won't pull 100a on 2S. In a Ten SCTE, it'll pull over 100a.

Also, the ratings are easily available if you're smart enough to know where to look.

Why would Castle call the Mamba Max Pro the Mamba 70a? That makes it sound weak, because of the way they rate their speed controls.

There's far much more to surface ESC's than power rating. With air ESCs, a notchy feeling throttle isn't a big deal. Input voltage and amperage rating are really the only important parts of an air ESC. In car ESC's, you also need to know about brake feel, adjustability, smoothness, etc...so we'd wind up with a Castle Reasonably Adjustable 70a Not All That Smooth but Fair Braking ESC with dodgy BEC so buy our external BEC and be $20 shy of buying an RX8, instead of a Mamba Max Pro. The Sidewinder would be the Castle Buy This Because It Came With A Motor You Want But Get A Better Speedo Because This One Will Die, the Hobbywing Yu Want Egrorr, the KO I Bought This Because I'm An Elitist et al.

So, suck it up, learn how to look up specs on a manufacturer's website. We aren't dealing with E-flite PT-17 profiles, we're dealing with cars, which are a much harsher environment for a speed control than anything air. When was the last time you saw a current spike in a plane that was 3x what the prop/motor normally pulled? That's right, when it lawn-darts at WOT, and the plane is gone anyway

Not all that hard to do & fun

Take your time cutting & removing the middle section of tray..

start by removing the middle section of the b44 battery tray, cut across right where the edge of the pack runs on both sides of the middle of the trays.

glue the two pieces together

then position tray inside chassis, mark mounting holes, drill & countersunk


emulsion has more traction & a plusher ride ...

Looks like I'll need more limiters, but I've heard that the limiters will also change the handling of the truck negatively so kind of reluctant.

Anyone running the exotek saddle setup? I was going to buy the b44.1 saddle setup but incase i want the exotek chassis then the b44 setup will be worthless.

What he said was geared to me because I asked a question and said I didn't want a clown to tell me to go back 100 pages. There was a mature individual who directed me to an informative page.. I said thanks to him and punk had to say how tune changes as if he helped me out.. I'm far from a newb to racing but new to this sc truck.. I can guarantee I would run circles around in him on the track no matter what I'm driving.. Some people have nothing better to do than get message alerts and check on this thread till 1-2am in the morning, where I read hundreds of pages in 2 weeks.. Whatever, some kids have to be cool with rude comments hiding behind a keyboard but would kiss our buts in person..

does the kit shock come filled with oil and is there oil in the box?

Yes, No.

will it be good to pick up a diff o rings and the one for the shocks too. re do them from the box?

Yes they do come with oil in them, but they have changed a few things from the first kits so who knows what is really in them for weight. If you are a brasher drive it. If you are a racer best to refill them. Either way you will want to remove the lower o-ring from the shock to reduce seal drag. The lower one is not needed.

shock oil in the newest kits is 35f 30r

I had some 2mm carbon plate and decided to redo my chassis with the stick pack centered in the chassis. It also just about eliminates the torsionial flex. Batteries are super easy to change out and I don't have to worry about pack size. I made an elevated platform for the ESC which works well since I'm still using the CC Sidewinder that came with the 1410 and it gets good airflow. temps 140f after a full pack. Waiting for Mantis to ship the ball diff and I should be pretty complete. Can't wait to see how it handles compared to the pinned setup I'm running now.

Nice!

maybe he post's (sp) better than he drives or wrenches.

Yeah my post may be my first but I've been around this rc stuff for a long time

So I opted to purchase a built truck and sold my kit to pass on the build,so I have a question on the belt adjustment. I took apart slipper to check on pads and I needed to tighten belt, I removed the pulley and I don't see any markings as far as what number it was on to gauge the tension.. The manual has 1-5 but I don't see anything, can someone help me out.. While on the topic if what would making one side tighter than other do, give more drive to that side when needed for certain conditions or typically run each side even?? Thanks