5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
12-20-2011 | 06:56 PM
Great looking setup!
I had some 2mm carbon plate and decided to redo my chassis with the stick pack centered in the chassis. It also just about eliminates the torsionial flex. Batteries are super easy to change out and I don't have to worry about pack size. I made an elevated platform for the ESC which works well since I'm still using the CC Sidewinder that came with the 1410 and it gets good airflow. temps 140f after a full pack. Waiting for Mantis to ship the ball diff and I should be pretty complete. Can't wait to see how it handles compared to the pinned setup I'm running now.
Sal
12-20-2011 | 07:05 PM
Looks real trick.
The only thing I see is you said it almost eliminates torsional flex? Alot of traction is generated by that kind of chassis movement. What you dont want is folding flex. that changes wheel base and can bind moving parts. But it does look badass.
The only thing I see is you said it almost eliminates torsional flex? Alot of traction is generated by that kind of chassis movement. What you dont want is folding flex. that changes wheel base and can bind moving parts. But it does look badass.
Last edited by Jerm13; 12-20-2011 at 07:16 PM.
12-20-2011 | 07:24 PM
Thanks Dan!
12-20-2011 | 07:24 PM
I felt the stock set chassis had too much. I'm running the Rc Shox 2 stage shock pistons and it seems more planted and predictable with a stiffer chassis.
12-20-2011 | 07:27 PM
I used some aluminum in the first incarnation but the chassis flex caused it to bend and then the chassis stayed kind of warped.
12-20-2011 | 07:30 PM
12-20-2011 | 08:08 PM
12-20-2011 | 08:25 PM
You can use our top deck as your battery hold down as well as our battery spacers to do the conversion. Top deck is 35.00, spacers are 10.00.
The spacers, you just servo tape to the bottom deck to keep the battery from moving side to side.
For 45.00 you can have all the parts ready to go and you don't need to do any cutting, except for the center rib on the chassis and the forward-most mounting position for the rear brace.
PM me if you are interested and we will guide you in the right direction to complete the conversion.
The spacers, you just servo tape to the bottom deck to keep the battery from moving side to side.
For 45.00 you can have all the parts ready to go and you don't need to do any cutting, except for the center rib on the chassis and the forward-most mounting position for the rear brace.
PM me if you are interested and we will guide you in the right direction to complete the conversion.
12-21-2011 | 04:37 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (38)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,776
....and BTW, nice work!
12-21-2011 | 05:00 AM
Thank you.
You can use our top deck as your battery hold down as well as our battery spacers to do the conversion. Top deck is 35.00, spacers are 10.00.
The spacers, you just servo tape to the bottom deck to keep the battery from moving side to side.
For 45.00 you can have all the parts ready to go and you don't need to do any cutting, except for the center rib on the chassis and the forward-most mounting position for the rear brace.
PM me if you are interested and we will guide you in the right direction to complete the conversion.
The spacers, you just servo tape to the bottom deck to keep the battery from moving side to side.
For 45.00 you can have all the parts ready to go and you don't need to do any cutting, except for the center rib on the chassis and the forward-most mounting position for the rear brace.
PM me if you are interested and we will guide you in the right direction to complete the conversion.
Sal
12-21-2011 | 07:41 AM
The torsional flex is really excessive on this truck. So much that the truck looses alignment while running on the track. This makes the truck wander in straight sections and does not allow the suspension to work properly. From our experience, when this was eliminated by using our top deck (and others who have used the exotek chassis) the truck became more stable, precise, generated more traction and ran faster laps around the track.