Too late.

Might be, but there are users here who are winning races who have had those "issues" and found "solutions".

Don't remember the inital release of SC10 2w very well do you?

Then you aren't looking, paying attention, or you are being willfully ignorant.

Here is Cav's trucks from the Spectrum race a couple weeks back - and even in this picture you can see saddle packs, a modified gear cover for the clutch basket, and a chassis brace, and a bunch of stick on lead - all stuff guys on this thread were doing six months ago before this truck won anything:



Here is race winner Kody's truck:



Here is the URL where I found it on AE's site:

http://www.teamassociated.com/news/race_results/732-Team_Associated's_Cavalieri_and_Numedahl_Win_Big_a t_the_Spektrum_Off_Road_Challenge

Functionally, what's the difference between the carbon brace on Ryan and Cody's truck and the truss the user here build? Style points?

There is another simple and more obvious solution. Have you considered you might be wrong?

Users here who attended the Spectrum race and spoke with Kody and Ryan confirmed they were running about the same setup Ryan ran at the Reedy race. You can find it here, and they list all the stuff you say the truck doesn't need to fix problems that don't exist.

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca..._Cavalieri.pdf

Oh, and you're welcome.

I don't see how that would be much of an improvement. You chose to use a single mount point on both ends of the brace (not where it attaches to the body) which creates a hinge. If you made the metal mounting tab longer by less than an inch you could secure it with 2 bolts eliminating the hinge. That would increase the rigidity significantly.

Is anyone running a chassis brace that still uses stick packs and the stock battery holder? I know people use it when converting to saddle but I am wondering if to much flex is getting taken out of the car when running a brace and the battery holder?

I run the stick pack with a chasis brace. I have almost no flex front to back. I still have the side flex but I like the side flex. Hope this helps. I can post a picture of my truck id you would like to see it.

Thats a good idea i might see if i can find one to fit.

@ Cameron, yea thats what i mean was on the outside. I tried adding one under the pin but it was too tight.
Thanks

The stock pistons have a taper edge on one side , which side on top of the shaft is the correct position please ?

yes, i HAVE read the first page of this thread. just wondering, what special things do i need to do to the truck?

Thanks Ill take a look into that.

Taper goes down.

Thanks Kiro .....

You have way too much time and looked too far in to my post. Clearly you took offense when other payed it no mind or just put in their $.2. When I looked in this thread it reminded me of any other V.1 of everything from the Slash 2wd to the Slash 4x4 and everything in between. Everyone is trying to find their way of fixing "problems". I admitted, the truck has it quirks that need to be worked out but I still ordered one. And excuse me for pointing it out but a carbon fiber rod as a center brace looks way better than some of the things I have seen in this entire thread, considering CF rod is so easy to come by at the LHS. I raced a "POS" rtr Slash for many club races and was quite successful with it. Then there were the guys, racing Slashes along side me, who complained about the truck yet couldn't drive to save their life. Like it was the trucks fault. I was just pointing out that it seems that some people forget that racing is a 2 part event. 1 part human and 1 part mechanical. Now we cant go blaming the mechanical one all the time now can we? As you have stated, the truck is wining races in the right hands with the right mods. I wont get in to arguing the semantics of my original post any more. Take it as you will, Put it on the track and let your skills show as I will do the same once I get mine built.


And thank you for posting those pictures. I had not seen them since I'm just getting back in to racing after a year off. Now I have something to go off of when I build my truck.

I like them for pavement when i'm just screwing around doing speed runs down the street, or when at the local carpet track and want it to handle more like a loose dirt track, but that is pretty much it.

on my truck which is a revised kit (not sure if it makes a difference) but the taper goes down on the front shocks, but faces up on the rear shocks.

Were the rear pistons installed with the taper side up??? They should be down.

Hi,

How do I take away steering and add it to the rear? I find the tail is too happy on corners

I'm using sway bar front and rear,
15,000 front and 5,000 rear diff fluid
Proline sniper soft front and rear
All others are stock setup.

thank you!