5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
07-09-2012 | 06:05 PM
Just bolt it all up and adjust until you reach your desired camber setting at ride height.
07-09-2012 | 06:42 PM
That was a really intense race!! looks like a really high skilled layout.
07-09-2012 | 06:46 PM
Tech Initiate
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 32
From: Central Ohio
It really depends on where you are running and what the surface is like. You have listed all the major things now you have to put together a combo that will give you the results that you want to address any issues that you are seeing in the handling of the truck.
The main upgrades are:
Swaybars, you need them (FT kit comes with them)
Spring kits, you need those too
8mm mod, used to lower rear roll center to get more traction on all surfaces...May result in more traction rolling on high traction surfaces but I have had good luck with it everywhere.
RC Shox products, they make the center ball diff, an adjustable steering bar, and dual stage pistons...That is up to you a lot of us are running the C diff and pistons with good results
FT upgrade kit, basically adds the the important upgrades from regular kit or RTR to make it almost a FT kit...Main improvements are the multi plate slipper, chassis brace (also comes with the updated rear belt cover and rear shock tower) and saddle pack mounts.
Exotek LCG chassis, aluminum center chassis to add weight and add it down low...Lots of people run it and it seems to be a good upgrade if you want/need the extra weight. You can try some stick on weight to see if you like it or replicate the feeling on a budget.
Exotek locked front hub, replaces the inner slipper pad and plate with a octagon that is keyed directly to the spur and belt pulley. Should help with the overpowered rear with the stock and or VTS slipper setup. At $8 I say that is something to have in your box to have as a tuning option at least.
I think those are all the main upgrades people have been using.
The main upgrades are:
Swaybars, you need them (FT kit comes with them)
Spring kits, you need those too
8mm mod, used to lower rear roll center to get more traction on all surfaces...May result in more traction rolling on high traction surfaces but I have had good luck with it everywhere.
RC Shox products, they make the center ball diff, an adjustable steering bar, and dual stage pistons...That is up to you a lot of us are running the C diff and pistons with good results
FT upgrade kit, basically adds the the important upgrades from regular kit or RTR to make it almost a FT kit...Main improvements are the multi plate slipper, chassis brace (also comes with the updated rear belt cover and rear shock tower) and saddle pack mounts.
Exotek LCG chassis, aluminum center chassis to add weight and add it down low...Lots of people run it and it seems to be a good upgrade if you want/need the extra weight. You can try some stick on weight to see if you like it or replicate the feeling on a budget.
Exotek locked front hub, replaces the inner slipper pad and plate with a octagon that is keyed directly to the spur and belt pulley. Should help with the overpowered rear with the stock and or VTS slipper setup. At $8 I say that is something to have in your box to have as a tuning option at least.
I think those are all the main upgrades people have been using.
07-09-2012 | 07:06 PM
What are you guys running for toe in/out?
I have the FT, and set it up per the manual. That means I have a few degrees to in at the rear and a couple degrees OUT at the front.
I have been having a hard time keeping this thing under control. It would get a little squirrely when going hard under power on a straightaway.
Today, I was playing around at the track and brought my front toe much closer to zero degrees (it might still be out a tad). Seems to have made the truck much more stable.
Does this make any sense?
I have the FT, and set it up per the manual. That means I have a few degrees to in at the rear and a couple degrees OUT at the front.
I have been having a hard time keeping this thing under control. It would get a little squirrely when going hard under power on a straightaway.
Today, I was playing around at the track and brought my front toe much closer to zero degrees (it might still be out a tad). Seems to have made the truck much more stable.
Does this make any sense?
07-09-2012 | 07:13 PM
What are you guys running for toe in/out?
I have the FT, and set it up per the manual. That means I have a few degrees to in at the rear and a couple degrees OUT at the front.
I have been having a hard time keeping this thing under control. It would get a little squirrely when going hard under power on a straightaway.
Today, I was playing around at the track and brought my front toe much closer to zero degrees (it might still be out a tad). Seems to have made the truck much more stable.
Does this make any sense?
I have the FT, and set it up per the manual. That means I have a few degrees to in at the rear and a couple degrees OUT at the front.
I have been having a hard time keeping this thing under control. It would get a little squirrely when going hard under power on a straightaway.
Today, I was playing around at the track and brought my front toe much closer to zero degrees (it might still be out a tad). Seems to have made the truck much more stable.
Does this make any sense?
07-09-2012 | 07:31 PM
What are you guys running for toe in/out?
I have the FT, and set it up per the manual. That means I have a few degrees to in at the rear and a couple degrees OUT at the front.
I have been having a hard time keeping this thing under control. It would get a little squirrely when going hard under power on a straightaway.
Today, I was playing around at the track and brought my front toe much closer to zero degrees (it might still be out a tad). Seems to have made the truck much more stable.
Does this make any sense?
I have the FT, and set it up per the manual. That means I have a few degrees to in at the rear and a couple degrees OUT at the front.
I have been having a hard time keeping this thing under control. It would get a little squirrely when going hard under power on a straightaway.
Today, I was playing around at the track and brought my front toe much closer to zero degrees (it might still be out a tad). Seems to have made the truck much more stable.
Does this make any sense?
07-09-2012 | 08:28 PM
07-09-2012 | 08:43 PM
07-09-2012 | 08:49 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 148
From: Utah
Need gearing help
So I just picked up a sc10 4wd and ordered me a Tekin RX8 ESC with a Tekin pro4 4000kv 4.5 motor. I have no idea where to start with gearing or what types of gears! I know this motor comes with the 5mm shaft so is that limiting me to 32 pitch gears? And what is the difference in (mod-1) gears? Any help on a starting point would be great. I hate spending $30.00++ in gears to never use them again!
thanks in advance and I can't wait to race this 4x4 sc10
thanks in advance and I can't wait to race this 4x4 sc10
07-09-2012 | 08:55 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 292
From: Hawkes Bay. New Zealand
I run on a med size outdoor track with that same motor, 60-15 and it's just warm after a race, also run 62-15, even cooler, if your on high grip indoor I'm sure 12-13 would be very safe.
07-09-2012 | 09:01 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 292
From: Hawkes Bay. New Zealand
What are you guys running for toe in/out?
I have the FT, and set it up per the manual. That means I have a few degrees to in at the rear and a couple degrees OUT at the front.
I have been having a hard time keeping this thing under control. It would get a little squirrely when going hard under power on a straightaway.
Today, I was playing around at the track and brought my front toe much closer to zero degrees (it might still be out a tad). Seems to have made the truck much more stable.
Does this make any sense?
I have the FT, and set it up per the manual. That means I have a few degrees to in at the rear and a couple degrees OUT at the front.
I have been having a hard time keeping this thing under control. It would get a little squirrely when going hard under power on a straightaway.
Today, I was playing around at the track and brought my front toe much closer to zero degrees (it might still be out a tad). Seems to have made the truck much more stable.
Does this make any sense?