A few pages back, or maybe another thread, someone got a cone grinding bit and opened up the outdrive to give the cva more clearance. He said no limiters, but you still have the stock a arm (not rpm a arms) coming in contact with the a arm. But maybe you can run just 1mm of clips that way.

This is why I said this subject should be its own thread so it is right out thread and easy to find. Not sifting through a thousand pages of info.

My error, you stated 8mm external limiters, not 8mm of clips.
I stand corrected.
The puppy lives!

Not at home to measure the rubber bumper/limiter thing. To clarify the last page or two of questions, what is the measurement of the rubber bumper? 4mm??
So rubber bumper plus 4mm of clips totals 8mm of total travel limitation?

2mm. Bumper + 6mm = 8mm

So bumper is only 2mm? Seems more than that, but once again, not at home with a micrometer.
I have 4mm clips + rubber so I would be short of 8mm total if the rubber is only 2mm.

Hope this helps everyone remember 8

+ YouTube Video

Just took a ride in the waaaay back machine!

Thanks Cameron for lightening the mood!

So tempted to troll this thread...

HYE U GUYZ HOW DOI MAKE TURCK FASTER

Gaaaah! I caved in.

Seriously, though. Sometimes I think the best thing one can do to solve problems is to avoid forums altogether and think for themselves. All RC cars are little more than plastic and metal; what you see is what you get.

Seriously don't be afraid to try anything. Take a day at the track learn what does what. Try the big sway bar then try the small one. Try no washers under the ball studs then try 6. If it does not work make a change don't continue to drive it. You soon will have an idea what does what and will have a direction to go when at a track you need to make a change for.

Great example for me. Everyone likes there truck heavy; I run my lite. Did not know until I tried it....

next subject?

I just went from dual garodisks to the pin mod with garodiscs and my added front slipper.

The truck is great! TQ'd the qualifiers and took second in the main after messing up pretty badly in the first lap. I'm very happy with the druck on my bumpy outdoor dirt track. it is MUCH easier to drive.

Now I'm ready for more power.

I bumped my timing up on my castle 3800 from 10* to 15 degrees. I am now having some issues with the current draw. I melted the solder joint off my deans plug and I only have one battery that runs with this setup, a Gens Ace 5000 40c. the others cut out, like a lipo cut off but at near full charge.

I am sure the motor is drawing a ton of amps, but its not getting over 165 deg in 10 min of running.

I am considering soldering two plugs to the ESC and Bateries to share the load so i think I can solve that problem.

my question is, can anyone recommend a battery solution that will keep up with the amperage? I am considering:

1) two 3.7v 1/12 scale packs for their low CG. reedy makes a 6500 65c that would be perfect if it performs as adertised. or a pair of the orion 90c look tempting but that 90c rating looks too good to be true, and I just dont know if the 1/12 batteries are really designed for that much load.

2) The gens ace 6000 saddle packs, seem popular but I dont really want the hassle of trying to squeeze them under the belt. ( or the High CG).

3) two 7.4v shorty packs in parallel. (reedy 4000 60c)
I expect these would be beasts, but are they anywhere close to being legal in an intermediate 4x4 class?

besides, " thats too much timing for a four pole" does anyone have any recommendation on the connector and battery issue?

Taco sounds to me like you need batteries with a higher C rating. I wouldn't bother with the solutions you were thinking of, but that's just my opinion. I've had similar issues with my gene ace 40c melting the positive wire off the bullet, but only when I gear it too high. Adding more plugs into the wiring will only add more resistance. Hope this helps!

now thats what im talking about ! 2 pages explaining how to use the clips on the shocks.

now this is all to keep the cva from hitting the outdrive and causing problems with the diffs but how does this effect the suspension ? does it in any negative way ?

promatch makes some good batteries for the money, and has a 1 year warranty on their lipos:

http://promatchracing.com/products.php?cat=38