5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
04-26-2012 | 09:18 PM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
SBWheel
nice call on that o-ring , thanks ...
got me 12mm TiN ball studs today & slapped um on 7mm high ...
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 04-26-2012 at 09:36 PM.
04-27-2012 | 12:40 AM
Hard to say without knowing if you drive on a track or just bash. Indoor or outdoor track? Loose or high grip track.
If you drive at one of the tracks near you, find out what tires their running. Ask a guy with a sc10 4x how his truck is setup. Download an AE setup sheet with a track description like yours.
You can look through these and see if there is a track condition like yours.
http://www.teamassociated.com/setupsheets/SC10_4x4/
If you drive at one of the tracks near you, find out what tires their running. Ask a guy with a sc10 4x how his truck is setup. Download an AE setup sheet with a track description like yours.
You can look through these and see if there is a track condition like yours.
http://www.teamassociated.com/setupsheets/SC10_4x4/
04-27-2012 | 01:23 AM
Tech Adept
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 105
From: Cornwall
I'm racing my stock b4 and sc10 4x4....I've been trying to dial my truck but the rear is getting under the truck. That's been my main issue. I'm running yellow springs all around. Tried FT blue on rear and no help. Got the C hub and that helped but not as much as I like. I'm running zero spacers on inner ball stud (rear and front). I think if I can find that one thing my truck would be dialed. Work in progress...
04-27-2012 | 03:33 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 427
Jeff will you be running at the Supercup race on May 19th in Tampa? I will be there and It would be nice to run against you. I havent seen you since that time at the Asylum and you didnt have your 4X4 built yet.
04-27-2012 | 05:05 AM
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 179
From: St.Catharines Ontaio
Go AE's website and dowload the FT SC10 4x4 manual. AE added an additional o-ring ASC6469, which is the same o-ring used in the 2wd shock caps and other shocks, that goes between the shock cartridge body and the shock body.
Also, make certain the tapered side of the shock cartridge is pointed up as on page 24 of the FT manual and page 21 in the Team version. I also wait to tighten down the shock cartridge cap until after I've inserted the shock shaft. I turn the shock shaft as I'm inserting it so as to not "scrape" the threads past the x-rings, possibly damaging them.
Also, make certain you aren't damaging the shafts with pliers or something. I hold my shock shafts with diagonal side cutting wire cutters right above the top thread of the shaft when I'm threading on the shock rod end. Others use something to protect the shock shaft, like a cloth, to protect the shaft.
Steven
Also, make certain the tapered side of the shock cartridge is pointed up as on page 24 of the FT manual and page 21 in the Team version. I also wait to tighten down the shock cartridge cap until after I've inserted the shock shaft. I turn the shock shaft as I'm inserting it so as to not "scrape" the threads past the x-rings, possibly damaging them.
Also, make certain you aren't damaging the shafts with pliers or something. I hold my shock shafts with diagonal side cutting wire cutters right above the top thread of the shaft when I'm threading on the shock rod end. Others use something to protect the shock shaft, like a cloth, to protect the shaft.
Steven
I've done all of the suggested and am definitly not new to shock, don't understand how they can possibly leak.
And I use a set of aluminum shock pliers for the shaft.
Is it possible the xrings need time to swell a little?
04-27-2012 | 05:45 AM
Just throwing it out there, in case anyone likes to travel to big events...we've got one coming up here in a few months! Our track was chosen for the RC Pro Series Canadian Nationals last year, and now Novarossi has picked us for the 2012 Novarossi Challenge!
Here's the link, and a vid from last year's Nats. The CRE boys love racing and break their backs to put on a phenomenal program!
http://www.rctech.net/forum/canadian...aug-3-5-a.html
| + YouTube Video | |
04-27-2012 | 06:38 AM
LOL. Did that with my 12mm cheapos for the carpet track, vehicle was on rails. Wish the losi guy who whipped me last time was there. think I could have given him a real run for his money now that I wasn't flipping over all the time.
04-27-2012 | 06:48 AM
04-27-2012 | 07:10 AM
IRM and kahuna,
It's a $35 test, but the 3.5 degree toe rear hub from strc is what I run. It will lock in the rear end a little better taking away some oversteer and introducing a little understeer. I think it has most of it's effect on exit steering.
If it doesn't solve your problem, your out $35 worse case scenario... but it helped my setup.
It's a $35 test, but the 3.5 degree toe rear hub from strc is what I run. It will lock in the rear end a little better taking away some oversteer and introducing a little understeer. I think it has most of it's effect on exit steering.
If it doesn't solve your problem, your out $35 worse case scenario... but it helped my setup.
04-27-2012 | 08:22 AM
04-27-2012 | 08:47 AM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Most here on this thread welcome your good questions ...
You can go to www.rc10,com they have set-ups posted for the Sc10 4x4 .
Pick one that fit your track conditions best ...
Most of the time the tires are the most important for finding rear traction , use what your local racers prefer most ...
KJohn , your out of luck bro , we ordered the team 12mm TiN studs & they only come two to a bag .
Have more hanging on wall though.....
Cain , try the JConcept pressure points , they do not roll over near as bad as the Bar Codes and will help even more I bet .