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Old 04-26-2012 | 06:09 PM
  #22216  
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im running on a bigger loamy track with a 18 tooth on my 5.5 with 4 degrees timing and run like 140 degrees but run a 13-16 on indoor and it stays cold maybe 100 degrees
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Old 04-26-2012 | 06:33 PM
  #22217  
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Who's racing this weekend?

I'm super broke but wanna run!! I want revenge for last time LOL
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Old 04-26-2012 | 07:04 PM
  #22218  
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I'll be racing at west coast raceway. Been working on my sc10 like crazy
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Old 04-26-2012 | 07:07 PM
  #22219  
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I might make the trip down too.
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Old 04-26-2012 | 07:14 PM
  #22220  
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Originally Posted by IRM616
I'll be racing at west coast raceway. Been working on my sc10 like crazy
jealous!! I'd love to run there. love to run my buggy there. actually working on it now lol.
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Old 04-26-2012 | 07:22 PM
  #22221  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
jealous!! I'd love to run there. love to run my buggy there. actually working on it now lol.
I'm racing my stock b4 and sc10 4x4....I've been trying to dial my truck but the rear is getting under the truck. That's been my main issue. I'm running yellow springs all around. Tried FT blue on rear and no help. Got the C hub and that helped but not as much as I like. I'm running zero spacers on inner ball stud (rear and front). I think if I can find that one thing my truck would be dialed. Work in progress...
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Old 04-26-2012 | 07:25 PM
  #22222  
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I have 4 mm under my rear stud on the tower. That should help alot.

first run 2mm then go up till it feels right.
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Old 04-26-2012 | 07:26 PM
  #22223  
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how do the 4x4 run it the street?
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Old 04-26-2012 | 07:38 PM
  #22224  
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Has anyone tried those MIP Bypass1 shocks yet,curious if they work???and how well
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Old 04-26-2012 | 08:08 PM
  #22225  
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Need help.

Can't get my kit shocks to stop leaking.

They leak out of the x-rings.

I've tried:

New cartrage with new seals
Green slime
TiN shafts.

All those items are currently new. I built the front shocks with 30wt bladder with zero rebound. After 5 pumps of the shock shaft, oil starts coming out at the seal.

I have no idea what else to try.
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Old 04-26-2012 | 08:19 PM
  #22226  
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did you try different o rings? they might be shot.
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Old 04-26-2012 | 08:20 PM
  #22227  
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Brand new ones came with the cartrage kit.
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Old 04-26-2012 | 08:48 PM
  #22228  
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WC posted a while back to shave 1mm off the x-ring housing. The little plastic piece that holds the x-rings in place. Probs about twenty pages back. Was going to try but so far mine aren't leaking...
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Old 04-26-2012 | 08:53 PM
  #22229  
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Originally Posted by keddy
Brand new ones came with the cartrage kit.
Go AE's website and dowload the FT SC10 4x4 manual. AE added an additional o-ring ASC6469, which is the same o-ring used in the 2wd shock caps and other shocks, that goes between the shock cartridge body and the shock body.

Also, make certain the tapered side of the shock cartridge is pointed up as on page 24 of the FT manual and page 21 in the Team version. I also wait to tighten down the shock cartridge cap until after I've inserted the shock shaft. I turn the shock shaft as I'm inserting it so as to not "scrape" the threads past the x-rings, possibly damaging them.

Also, make certain you aren't damaging the shafts with pliers or something. I hold my shock shafts with diagonal side cutting wire cutters right above the top thread of the shaft when I'm threading on the shock rod end. Others use something to protect the shock shaft, like a cloth, to protect the shaft.

Steven
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Old 04-26-2012 | 09:00 PM
  #22230  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
I have 4 mm under my rear stud on the tower. That should help alot.

first run 2mm then go up till it feels right.
Okay. Thanks I'll work on that
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