I have seen the previous responses on this but I will give you my feedback.
I had similar issues with the truck jumping. The V1 center diff helped and the V2 center diff even more so for correcting mid air. On triples and quads I would have the best luck getting out of the throttle up the face of the jump. This helped but still not always consistant. I was running blue front and rear springs.

I then bought the Exotek chassis and installed White front springs in the rear. This made the truck much more planted and less likely to case out on the face of jumps. The truck now flies lower and farther with much less throttle. I think the front springs in the rear made the biggest difference jumping while the heavier Exotek chassis make the truck feel much more planted.

You may want to try front green springs in the rear if you are running the stock chassis. Springs are inexspensive and easy to throw on and try.
I did mention in an earlier post that I tried the stiffer rear yellow and red rear springs and did not like them. The shorter front springs feel more progressive and don't have the rebound reaction that the taller rear springs have.

Going with the stiffer spring in the rear does affect rear weight transfer under throttle. The first thing I noticed was the truck was twitchy on initial steering. I had to make a toe adjustment and slow the steering down some but the handling is now much improved overall.

In my quest to find out which RCshox products to buy for my SC10 4x4...

I want to get all I need for Cdiff upgrade, and shock rebuild, and other advised upgrades for SC10 4x4 pre-team version SC10 4x4.

Is there only one type of RCshox valve to get for SC10 4x4?
Mine are currently stock pre-team version.
Is this all I need except for the 20 & 25wt oil? Associated SC104x4 2stg, [RCS-SC1044-0] $30.99 http://rcshox.com/shoxshop/catalog/p...products_id=31
Losi 20-25wt Shock Oil advised? Other?

I have the stock pre-team version slipper clutch in place.
For the RCshox Cdiff upgrade.Is this all that is needed? SC1044 center dif V2 [AE-CTRDIF-00] $59.99
http://rcshox.com/shoxshop/catalog/p...products_id=58
Or do I also need a V1 upgrade first?

Is it recommended to get spare balls? Spare spur? Rings? Other?

Recommended gear ratio? (I currently have 13t pinion>64t spur)

I’ll be planning on doing the Exotech chassis eventually, and I'm experimenting now with lead weight balance, and I'm about to try a steel skidplate...

I do both indoor and outdoor, both fairly smooth. outside is loose, inside is a high traction clay.
The jumps are usually not massive, and they usually have landing ramps.
Inside tires Hpi megabytes Outside cityblocks.

You can't go wrong with buying the FT conversion for fifty bucks. New slipper system, chassis brace, and steering rack.

He is slower and it jumps bad without it, hardly a complaint


You dont need to buy anything extra, my kits come complete with everything you need. You should pick up an extra spur gear just in case you lawndart something and thrash one. I will have oils in stock in a few days so you can even get that too!

from what I asked about RCShox stuff, it sounds like the balls for the diff are quite durable so other than the extra spur gear, no real worries on spares to keep on hand right away from what I could tell.

I'll be putting in his stuff this weekend, and maybe even test some too.

Il be selling my exoteck shortly if anyone wants it, im def faster without it, i tried a factory team version last night, i have to say its pretty darn good, ft truck, crossbalanced with rc shox v2 diff with two sage pistons should be all anyone needs

Still warped no matter how many times you flip um or rotate , more betta just to replace with RPM arms ...

Thanks

Wise move on the pistons

Bad tech.

The trick is to flip the arms BEFORE they warp. Start with a new set, mark them on one side, then rotate once a race day. I have a set that had (I think) 10 race days on them before I changed them, and they weren't warped. I did wear enough slop in the fronts where I thought they needed to be changed, the rears are still fine.

The RPM arms also warp and are no solution. I got two race days out of them before they were bound up on the hinge pins to the point where (IMO) they were no longer usable, same as the AE arms. The RPM arms were visually straight as a pin; but they were bound up on the hinge pins bad enough to warrant replacement.

how did you crossbalance it? I'd like to try your truck out.

Four scales.

Yea iv had them for about 8 months now, their real good, i use them in all my vehicles