5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
04-29-2012 | 09:12 AM
04-29-2012 | 09:44 AM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
04-29-2012 | 10:59 AM
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Posts: 485
From: Orange Park Fl
Cheers, I hope your batts treat you well
04-29-2012 | 11:29 AM
I agree with no glue. I use a touch of loctite since I have had the nut back off. If you glue it you will have buy the whole pulley assembly with clicker ect instead of just the pulleys when they wear down.
04-29-2012 | 11:43 AM
What are you guys doing as far as replacing the o-rings and washers in the diff's? I see A-main has a rebuild kit that come with everything including gears and shafts for about $14, but all I need are the o-rings and washers.
Don't really want to spend $30 to rebuild 2 diffs that only needs $4 in parts.
Also I hear you guys are shimming the outdrives somehow to help with the wobble. How are you going about this?
Lastly I guess you guys are also putting up travel limiters on the shocks to keep them from pushing against the out drivers when the suspension is compressed. Does this help with some of the premature wear of the o-rings and wobble of outdrives?
Don't really want to spend $30 to rebuild 2 diffs that only needs $4 in parts.
Also I hear you guys are shimming the outdrives somehow to help with the wobble. How are you going about this?
Lastly I guess you guys are also putting up travel limiters on the shocks to keep them from pushing against the out drivers when the suspension is compressed. Does this help with some of the premature wear of the o-rings and wobble of outdrives?
For sure clip on a 2mm and a 1mm spacer (total 3mm on each shaft) below the rubber bumper on the shock shafts to limit up travel or your stock a arms and the cvd will push the outdrive up and ruin the shim.
04-29-2012 | 11:56 AM
There are a few posts that give a part number for a buggy shim thats a little thicker than stock so you don't have to stack shims, forgot if it was a x-ray or ofna buggy part.
For sure clip on a 2mm and a 1mm spacer (total 3mm on each shaft) below the rubber bumper on the shock shafts to limit up travel or your stock a arms and the cvd will push the outdrive up and ruin the shim.
For sure clip on a 2mm and a 1mm spacer (total 3mm on each shaft) below the rubber bumper on the shock shafts to limit up travel or your stock a arms and the cvd will push the outdrive up and ruin the shim.
1 under each sun gear.
Tons of time on this setup and haven't had to replace them yet.
04-29-2012 | 12:03 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 275
I got my VTS slipper finally the other day and put it in. Unfortunately, not even with lots of dremel work, I couldn't get the standard cover to fit over it.. I tried using a heatgun, but the plastic started melting at the center before it even got soft enough on the flat part to shape it at all. I am now leaving the screws slightly loose, it doesn't seem to rub that way.. bloody stupid of AE not to include the right cover with the slipper and giving it the same part # as the old one.. I ended up with an old set of covers due to that, of course.
I got a question about the other side of the slipper, though.. I run a high torque pad there, and it was glazed and showed clear signs of heat damage.. will the VTS slipper also take off the load of that side, or will I have to continue sanding down that side?
I got a question about the other side of the slipper, though.. I run a high torque pad there, and it was glazed and showed clear signs of heat damage.. will the VTS slipper also take off the load of that side, or will I have to continue sanding down that side?
04-29-2012 | 12:20 PM
04-29-2012 | 12:23 PM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
What are you guys doing as far as replacing the o-rings and washers in the diff's? I see A-main has a rebuild kit that come with everything including gears and shafts for about $14, but all I need are the o-rings and washers.
Don't really want to spend $30 to rebuild 2 diffs that only needs $4 in parts.
Also I hear you guys are shimming the outdrives somehow to help with the wobble. How are you going about this?
Lastly I guess you guys are also putting up travel limiters on the shocks to keep them from pushing against the out drivers when the suspension is compressed. Does this help with some of the premature wear of the o-rings and wobble of outdrives?
Don't really want to spend $30 to rebuild 2 diffs that only needs $4 in parts.
Also I hear you guys are shimming the outdrives somehow to help with the wobble. How are you going about this?
Lastly I guess you guys are also putting up travel limiters on the shocks to keep them from pushing against the out drivers when the suspension is compressed. Does this help with some of the premature wear of the o-rings and wobble of outdrives?
The limiter's (external) are just for as you described , limits the CVA from pushing outdrive on hard landings...
Don't use any extra shims inside diff , just replace any that that are not smooth & flat....
Advise to replace metal gears & shims together as both wear and need replacement together...
# 9831 seal set
#9829 gear diff rebuild kit
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 05-15-2013 at 12:53 PM.
04-29-2012 | 12:26 PM
I got my VTS slipper finally the other day and put it in. Unfortunately, not even with lots of dremel work, I couldn't get the standard cover to fit over it.. I tried using a heatgun, but the plastic started melting at the center before it even got soft enough on the flat part to shape it at all. I am now leaving the screws slightly loose, it doesn't seem to rub that way.. bloody stupid of AE not to include the right cover with the slipper and giving it the same part # as the old one.. I ended up with an old set of covers due to that, of course.
I got a question about the other side of the slipper, though.. I run a high torque pad there, and it was glazed and showed clear signs of heat damage.. will the VTS slipper also take off the load of that side, or will I have to continue sanding down that side?
I got a question about the other side of the slipper, though.. I run a high torque pad there, and it was glazed and showed clear signs of heat damage.. will the VTS slipper also take off the load of that side, or will I have to continue sanding down that side?
http://rcshox.com/shoxshop/catalog/p...dc5c8df2f52249
You may want to ditch the slipper though and go with his center diff. Way better than any slipper IMO.
http://rcshox.com/shoxshop/catalog/p...dc5c8df2f52249
04-29-2012 | 12:27 PM
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Posts: 808
From: In a VAN down by the RIVER
Thanks man! I will for sure be putting the up travel limiters on.
Does anyone know if these are the same o-rings that are used in the 4x4? This is from the 2wd sc10.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ial-O-Ring-Set
If they are the same this would be great, but I would still need the large inside washer as mine are concaved and has a bad groove worn from the sun gear pin.
As far as shims go I have some Traxxas shims that i plan to stack.
Does anyone know if these are the same o-rings that are used in the 4x4? This is from the 2wd sc10.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ial-O-Ring-Set
If they are the same this would be great, but I would still need the large inside washer as mine are concaved and has a bad groove worn from the sun gear pin.
As far as shims go I have some Traxxas shims that i plan to stack.
These will replace the stock ones.