5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
05-08-2012 | 09:25 AM
I run 13/62 with my 4600kv tenshock and same on my old sc4x 4.5t, would temp at about 160 on both give or take after a 7 min main. If your just running on the street and may be getting 10 to 15 min depending on your battery you will want to check the temp every few minutes after you have driven for 7 minutes.
05-08-2012 | 09:29 AM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
I don't give bad tech ....
Anyone can make a mistake even you...
Just act mature and not have cow about , just disagree and move along .....
05-08-2012 | 09:39 AM
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
I'm actually going from the V1 center diff to the V2. V1 was such a huge improvement over the original kit slipper that I will never go back to a slipper setup, even the new factory one. So when I went to the V2 diff, I was surprised how much slower it was. But your suggestion on the spring makes sense to me. I'm still using the original spring that I got with the kit back in Nov. I'll get a couple V2 diff springs and see if that resolves my speed issue. I'm thinking it's going to work.
Thanks for the advice on the Spring and Bearings. I'll get those ordered today!
Thanks for the advice on the Spring and Bearings. I'll get those ordered today!
05-08-2012 | 09:42 AM
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From: Evansville, IN
05-08-2012 | 12:29 PM
Tech Rookie
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 11
Hi Guys
A little something I learned about people damaging Nanotech batteries, I hope you will agree it makes sense.
The is a small weakness in the Nanotech design, its not the lipo itself its the plastic case. The plastic case around the 4mm connectors is only around 1mm thick at the top of the case and will soften so then wire pressure can distort the plastic. If you have a high current draw motor or connectors that are high enough in resistance to heat the connections up to this temperature you may distort the battery case.
I know a few poeple that suffered from melted battery cases so I decided to take my new batteries apart and solve the problem before it happened to me and cost me money!
The wire from the Lipo to the 4mm terminal inside the battery is soldered at the bottom and is fairly rigid, I knew I needed to make the connector in the battery case more rigid and not move if the temperature got high due to a high current draw motor or connectors that are high enough in resistance to heat the connections up.
The fix I can up with was to drill 2 x 4mm holes where the small + and - symbols are on top of the battery at the highest part of the case between the connectors (make sure you don't exceed aroudn 5mm depth!), then I used a silicone sealant gun to fill each side of the battery case with silicone sealant. This holds the connectors in place if they get hot enough to melt the plastic and stops the battery becoming distorted.
Sorry if that was long winded, I hope it makes sense
Gary
A little something I learned about people damaging Nanotech batteries, I hope you will agree it makes sense.
The is a small weakness in the Nanotech design, its not the lipo itself its the plastic case. The plastic case around the 4mm connectors is only around 1mm thick at the top of the case and will soften so then wire pressure can distort the plastic. If you have a high current draw motor or connectors that are high enough in resistance to heat the connections up to this temperature you may distort the battery case.
I know a few poeple that suffered from melted battery cases so I decided to take my new batteries apart and solve the problem before it happened to me and cost me money!
The wire from the Lipo to the 4mm terminal inside the battery is soldered at the bottom and is fairly rigid, I knew I needed to make the connector in the battery case more rigid and not move if the temperature got high due to a high current draw motor or connectors that are high enough in resistance to heat the connections up.
The fix I can up with was to drill 2 x 4mm holes where the small + and - symbols are on top of the battery at the highest part of the case between the connectors (make sure you don't exceed aroudn 5mm depth!), then I used a silicone sealant gun to fill each side of the battery case with silicone sealant. This holds the connectors in place if they get hot enough to melt the plastic and stops the battery becoming distorted.
Sorry if that was long winded, I hope it makes sense
Gary
You will have to add the www as well as I can't add that either;
.flickr.com/photos/78114516@N05/7159954130/
.flickr.com/photos/78114516@N05/7159953392/
.flickr.com/photos/78114516@N05/7159954834/
Gary
05-08-2012 | 01:09 PM
*sigh*
------------
Did a tear down of my truck today: One of my CVA pins snapped I don't even know how long ago. So I went through the whole truck.
Axles are wobbled out at cva-pin, CVA pins are bent or broken, three bearings were being held together by pressure. What a mess.
------------
Did a tear down of my truck today: One of my CVA pins snapped I don't even know how long ago. So I went through the whole truck.
Axles are wobbled out at cva-pin, CVA pins are bent or broken, three bearings were being held together by pressure. What a mess.
05-08-2012 | 01:26 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 163
From: Ballwin, MO.
Setup
Just got my new Sc10 4x4 FT and went to the AE website to check out some setups. I noticed that on Steven Hartson and Kody Numedahls latest setups that they are running stick packs and not saddles. Which setup are most people preferring?
05-08-2012 | 01:30 PM
Tech Adept
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 105
From: Cornwall
Hi, I have created some photos of the battery hole mod and one of some of my AE collection but I can't add direct links as my post count is too low.
You will have to add the www as well as I can't add that either;
.flickr.com/photos/78114516@N05/7159954130/
.flickr.com/photos/78114516@N05/7159953392/
.flickr.com/photos/78114516@N05/7159954834/
Gary
You will have to add the www as well as I can't add that either;
.flickr.com/photos/78114516@N05/7159954130/
.flickr.com/photos/78114516@N05/7159953392/
.flickr.com/photos/78114516@N05/7159954834/
Gary
I couldn't find the pictures with the above links.
05-08-2012 | 01:32 PM
Dan
05-08-2012 | 02:14 PM
Hi, I have created some photos of the battery hole mod and one of some of my AE collection but I can't add direct links as my post count is too low.
You will have to add the www as well as I can't add that either;
.flickr.com/photos/78114516@N05/7159954130/
.flickr.com/photos/78114516@N05/7159953392/
.flickr.com/photos/78114516@N05/7159954834/
Gary
You will have to add the www as well as I can't add that either;
.flickr.com/photos/78114516@N05/7159954130/
.flickr.com/photos/78114516@N05/7159953392/
.flickr.com/photos/78114516@N05/7159954834/
Gary
Add leading www to the address, heres one...http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/78114516@N05/7159953392/
I'm sure that is a good fix, but if your bullets are arcing I don't think silicone will keep the heat from melting the case.
IMO best solution is to change out your bullets way before they are so compressed together that they are loose in the battery holes causing them to arc.
$5 insurance every couple of months.
05-08-2012 | 04:10 PM
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 37
From: Seattle, WA
Sounds like the folks having problems are mounting around the Rx box. Do you have a telemetry system? I wonder if it's the Rx that is causing the interference instead of the chassis, or maybe the Al chassis adds just a bit more making the diffrence?
Also good point about the glitch buster, the extra weight could be causing the servo to pull more power in the turns making the transponder weak.
I mount mine where the brace would mount on the front.
Also good point about the glitch buster, the extra weight could be causing the servo to pull more power in the turns making the transponder weak.
I mount mine where the brace would mount on the front.
05-08-2012 | 06:21 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 808
From: In a VAN down by the RIVER
*sigh*
------------
Did a tear down of my truck today: One of my CVA pins snapped I don't even know how long ago. So I went through the whole truck.
Axles are wobbled out at cva-pin, CVA pins are bent or broken, three bearings were being held together by pressure. What a mess.
------------
Did a tear down of my truck today: One of my CVA pins snapped I don't even know how long ago. So I went through the whole truck.
Axles are wobbled out at cva-pin, CVA pins are bent or broken, three bearings were being held together by pressure. What a mess.
05-08-2012 | 08:24 PM
*sigh*
------------
Did a tear down of my truck today: One of my CVA pins snapped I don't even know how long ago. So I went through the whole truck.
Axles are wobbled out at cva-pin, CVA pins are bent or broken, three bearings were being held together by pressure. What a mess.
------------
Did a tear down of my truck today: One of my CVA pins snapped I don't even know how long ago. So I went through the whole truck.
Axles are wobbled out at cva-pin, CVA pins are bent or broken, three bearings were being held together by pressure. What a mess.
It's back together, it's just sitting there on my bench. I have nearly totally lost interest in this truck.