The plates are key'd to the slipper hubs by a little pin: so they don't spin instead of the ballbearings. It's quite simple, but you have to make sure you do it right or it'll grind up stuff.

What kind of Servo u running???
&
What TX/RX????

For the servo I'm running a Team Associated DS1015.

For the TX/RS I'm running an Airtronics MT-4 with the included RX461 FHSS-4T receiver.

i race in mount joy PA at pitstop hobbies

we use to glue the diff rings to the out drives on our rc10's years ago. so is too much tension on the spring result in problems with the thrust bearing on the V1 diff ?

No, its a "thrust" bearing, the spring tension doesnt effect it at all. V2 comes with a complete thrust bearing because the Hat washer that comes stock is only surface hardened and wears a groove. The balls and plates are much harder than the spring pressure could ever put out. That was just someones wild incorrect guess!

i run white rears. seemed to help jumping and traction

Redxz, quite a few pages behind here but what are you running on the diff balls for lube? I had a similar problem with the v1 diff but fixed it once I started using some old Schumacher silicone diff lube. I have a v2 now and have found that all 10 pins are needed for asphalt. Without the 10 pins it seems like too much power is transferred to the front causing a slight loss of acceleration. If you get the diff sorted out and still want a bit more acceleration try putting the 3/3 block in the rear. I have run both the 1410 and the Pro4 4600 with both diffs and once you get the slip out it accelerates like the proverbial bat outta hell

Head out to Cameron's install pictures in the RCshox thread. Page 59 post 878 for a shot of it. You can see the pin in a few of the shots.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...rvices-59.html

So I'm racing an SC10 FT 2WD right now, and want to to add a 4x4 to the mix. My problem is that this thread has 1500+ pages... Where can I go? What can I read? To get up to speed on what works and what does't on this truck?

Are there acknowledged setups and hop ups for this truck that I can start with?

I'd love the guidance and help... don't want to start any new threads, willing to do research... just need to be pointed in right direction.

Thanks!

-kyri

I use the Avid Revolution Ceramic bearings. They are metal shield on one side and rubber on the other. You run the rubber side out that is exposed to dirt.

As for your speed being slower on the straight with the slightly smaller spur, the only reason you would notice your truck being slower with the center diff vs. the slipper is due to slip. The main reason that the center diff would slip is due to your spring being sacked out. A new FT V2 SC10 diff spring is less than $2. I will bet you that if you compare the new spring to your existing, the old spring is shorter. This will cause you to not get enough tension on the diff and will cause it to slip. This will not happen with the new diff spring. I replace the diff spring at least once a month depending on use to prevent this from happening.

As for comparing the Center Diff to the standard or even FT VTS slipper, no comparison. I have a new FT VTS slipper. The V2 Center Diff is staying in my truck. The truck launches hard and is crazy fast down the straight. Diff action is more consistant and now tunable thanks to the new V2 design.

Honestly, take the time and start on page 1 of this thread. I know it is a PIA and time consuming but you really need to start at the beginning to have a complete understanding on the truck and its progression to where we are today.

It would be useful to filter out the fluff and just get to the meat but there is some very good info in here. Not just for a setup guide but for maintence issues as well.

I did it...I know you can too.

I didn't read the last 3pages, i wouldv'e saw that
the problem might be the Exotek chassis...
I thought maybe u needed to throw a "Glitchbuster"
in there, which some ppl need to have if your running a servo
that has a high voltage/amp pull. The glitchbusters are also used
by some ppl, just to make sure there transponder doesn't miss
a score on any of there laps. They are so cheap, i like to run them
when racing, whether my servo/RX needs it or not, can't hurt..

I will be running the EXOTEK chassis soon also...
Are a lot of people having problems with interference??
I saw some replies of in here of ppl putting there transponder
above the servo?? any other suggestions on placement??
I will have the saddle setup, so my RX, will have to go in back.
Kinda sux, to have to stretch the transponder wire all the way to the front.?.
THX

True. True. Fair enough... that's what I did with the 2wd and it served me well. I'll go that route here also if I have to.

Thanks, and looking forward to trading setup here!

-kyri

- Ignore alot of my crap between other members, but there is a couple guides i've put out that will assist you well. I hope.
- Also, They really are posting good setups at RC10.com so make use of it for your track. I do.
- Don't feed Wild Cherry
- Use the search, it really does work.
- Scan read until you find tidbits of info to actually read. There is alot of us bickering and being "bros" in here. Probably 400+ pages worth if combined. (Sorry for that)

All in all, I got lucky and have been here long enough to have only needed to read 100 or so pages. I'm one of the guys who hates people asking for crap that's been answered 10 times (literally) and been answered that many times before. (I work in the biz, I guess i'm burnt out when I get home, to "explain" my attitude.) But clarifications and honest questions are like gold for some of us. We will love to help.

Check out RCSHOX for the hopups we will be talking about and if you can, read the daily stuff, then read the archive so you don't take 4 steps forward, and 2 back. =)