It's all about preference, so just start with more than 5 on a high traction surface and less than 5 on a low traction one. Add or subtract until you like it.

What motor and what exact pack?

pro4 4000 or sc4x 4.5

the packs are genace 5000 25c saddles

Guess my post is being overlooked.

You should be ok with the 4.5 sc4x on medium traction tracks, but I'd be weary of running that pack with the pro4. I had 40C gens ace stick packs that were ice cold with the 4.5 sc4x on high traction tracks, but they were hitting 110 degrees after I threw in the pro4 right when tekin released it.

The STRC parts don't hurt but they are not absolutely necessary.
MTK slipper/ garodisk are just upgrades for the stock slipper which you will not use after the center diff.
The rear springs don't come stiff enough so people use the front springs which are stiffer. It helps the jumping a ton. #ASC91071

Got bored and tried to test fit some of my rc8 springs onto the sc10. The blue, white, and red ones (not sure on green, don't have any) will not fit they won't even slide all the way onto the shock body, the yellow ones will but they won't fit the bottom ball cup right....... The only ones that fit decent were the black, silver, and bronze........ Even then it will probably only work in the front because the rears are way to long....... Here are some pics:


Front:



Rear:

evil genius you are saying the yellow ft springs aren't stiff enough in the rear? aren't the front springs shorter?

I upgraded from an RTR model.
Below are a upgrades I made and recommnend:

* Center Diff from rcshocks.com
* FT saddle pack bracket kit (inline saddles)
* +3mm offset wheels (JC Hazard or DE)
* FT chassis brace kit
* FT Ackerman steering link
* RPM arms (front and rear)
* Savox 1258TG servo
* Tekin RX8 & Pro4 4000 with 15/60 gearing

I run the following setup on a medium sized 10th scale outdoor dirt/clay track, medium traction:

* Blue front springs with blue front sway bar.
* Front shock fluid @ 32.5 w/ bladder, 1 x-ring, no shock boot, 6mm limiters.
* Outside front camber link location with 4mm ball stud shims
* Blue rear spring and blue rear sway bar (trying orange rear bar)
* Rear shock fluid @ 27.5 w/ bladder, 1 x-ring, no shock boot, 6mm external limiters.
* Inside rear camber link location with 1mm ball stud shim
* Diff Fluid 5/30wt F/R with slipper
* Diff fluid 5/7wt F/R with center diff

I tried a stiffer rear spring and did not like the way the truck handled.
As for jumping big jumps, getting a good run up to jump and then getting out of the throttle at the face works best to keep the truck flying long and low with correct attitude. Truck launches hard out of the hole and does not get loose coming out of turns hard on throttle. Stays consistant through fast sweeper and does not come around on itself. I can get hard on brakes and turn on a dime or drive it in hard and power slide through turns. Very consistant and predicatable mid-exit turning along with good on power steering. I have no added weight in the truck. It will sometimes traction roll in turns if I hit a rut. Will purchase Exotek chassis when off backorder. I do not see the STRC pulley as being necessary. The bigger issue is the bearings. Replace and keep an eye on condition as you should with all the bearings. I have already replaced the diff and hub bearings.

Yup!
The front blues are 4.3 the yellow rears are 3.1.

Almost all trucks/buggies run softer springs in the rear compared to the front.

So I need to put the blue front springs on the rear. I will order those today.

Also how much is that center diff? Any big stores like Amain or tower stock it?

How much of a difference does that center diff make compared to the v2 slipper with heavy duty slipper pads?

The center diff is 59.99 at rcshox.com and only available there. Marcus custom makes them.

SO....center diff or FT clutch basket ???? I have yet to have mine hit the track, but curious on any feedback from someone who can give an honest opinion.

As someone who has both, they are both great...... The FT clutch basket is far better then the original version......... However with the center diff v1 I still felt better power in turns then with the FT basket, so IMO with the new V2 center diff it can only get better........ The question you should ask is the price difference (about 40 bucks) a factor? Both will do the job but I think the center diff just does it better.........

when you get the exotek then put the blue fronts on, otherwise it'll be too stiff.

try the white fronts or green fronts in the rear for now.

I run the orange bar in the back and feel it's perfect.