SC10 4x4 Thread
this looks like a good idea................not............
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SC10-4x4-fac...67123516169375
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SC10-4x4-fac...67123516169375
Whelp, This will probably be the last time I post as a AE owner. I'll still be around to answer questions and piss you guys off though. 
Long story that I don't want to get too far into as I don't like to bash companies and I know i'll get ripped for it, but I'm done with AE. They have stretched my patience and customer loyalty too far and will lose a driver for it. (if for some reason you'd like more information, you're free to PM me) So I'll letcha guys know when I get my truck's thread all up and done to sell. It'll be a good Truck to anyone, I worked hard with it. It's The RCtech page 1 Sc10 4x4 like you veterans.
I haven't decided to go to Losi yet, as I really don't like them even if i'm no longer their competition but we'll see. Thanks for all the help guys. Sorry for my attitude in the past and I hope to continue helping the guys who won't use the search function.

Long story that I don't want to get too far into as I don't like to bash companies and I know i'll get ripped for it, but I'm done with AE. They have stretched my patience and customer loyalty too far and will lose a driver for it. (if for some reason you'd like more information, you're free to PM me) So I'll letcha guys know when I get my truck's thread all up and done to sell. It'll be a good Truck to anyone, I worked hard with it. It's The RCtech page 1 Sc10 4x4 like you veterans.
I haven't decided to go to Losi yet, as I really don't like them even if i'm no longer their competition but we'll see. Thanks for all the help guys. Sorry for my attitude in the past and I hope to continue helping the guys who won't use the search function.

Nananana nananana hey heyy goodbye!
I'm sure AE will.survive LOL
Later Tater!
Whelp, This will probably be the last time I post as a AE owner. I'll still be around to answer questions and piss you guys off though. 
Long story that I don't want to get too far into as I don't like to bash companies and I know i'll get ripped for it, but I'm done with AE. They have stretched my patience and customer loyalty too far and will lose a driver for it. (if for some reason you'd like more information, you're free to PM me) So I'll letcha guys know when I get my truck's thread all up and done to sell. It'll be a good Truck to anyone, I worked hard with it. It's The RCtech page 1 Sc10 4x4 like you veterans.
I haven't decided to go to Losi yet, as I really don't like them even if i'm no longer their competition but we'll see. Thanks for all the help guys. Sorry for my attitude in the past and I hope to continue helping the guys who won't use the search function.

Long story that I don't want to get too far into as I don't like to bash companies and I know i'll get ripped for it, but I'm done with AE. They have stretched my patience and customer loyalty too far and will lose a driver for it. (if for some reason you'd like more information, you're free to PM me) So I'll letcha guys know when I get my truck's thread all up and done to sell. It'll be a good Truck to anyone, I worked hard with it. It's The RCtech page 1 Sc10 4x4 like you veterans.
I haven't decided to go to Losi yet, as I really don't like them even if i'm no longer their competition but we'll see. Thanks for all the help guys. Sorry for my attitude in the past and I hope to continue helping the guys who won't use the search function.

Good news for me , will enjoy defeating your new truck when ever it decides to bring it to me ....
Actually I'm running futaba 4pl, I've read issue's with the rx's for them and that they have been known to go bad..........As far as for 4x4's I personally prefer something with at least 200oz torque however since the sc10 is so light I had no issue's running it with a savox 1257 on my backup sc10, which I believe is around 140oz ......
Has anyone got any tips to stop the shock collars moving?
Mine are very loose and I'm sure they move.
I've put some thread lock on the threads and let it dry but the collars are so loose it doesn't provide much friction.
I'd rather not buy the STRC ones if there is a simple fix.
Mine are very loose and I'm sure they move.
I've put some thread lock on the threads and let it dry but the collars are so loose it doesn't provide much friction.
I'd rather not buy the STRC ones if there is a simple fix.
Yes, P=IV. But if you want to calculate the "instantaneous" P you are putting into your car, you have to take the battery voltage (let's call it 7.4V) and multiply it by the amount of current you are drawing, at that moment, from the battery (not the battery's overall capacity).
You do see guys get excited about high C ratings, and insisting that they get more punch with higher C rating. I suppose this is possible (and this would also reduce instances of brownouts, as the battery can always keep up with the demand). This makes sense if battery construction for high C ratings ultimately lets more current flow during bursts.
Whelp, This will probably be the last time I post as a AE owner. I'll still be around to answer questions and piss you guys off though. 
Long story that I don't want to get too far into as I don't like to bash companies and I know i'll get ripped for it, but I'm done with AE. They have stretched my patience and customer loyalty too far and will lose a driver for it. (if for some reason you'd like more information, you're free to PM me) So I'll letcha guys know when I get my truck's thread all up and done to sell. It'll be a good Truck to anyone, I worked hard with it. It's The RCtech page 1 Sc10 4x4 like you veterans.
I haven't decided to go to Losi yet, as I really don't like them even if i'm no longer their competition but we'll see. Thanks for all the help guys. Sorry for my attitude in the past and I hope to continue helping the guys who won't use the search function.

Long story that I don't want to get too far into as I don't like to bash companies and I know i'll get ripped for it, but I'm done with AE. They have stretched my patience and customer loyalty too far and will lose a driver for it. (if for some reason you'd like more information, you're free to PM me) So I'll letcha guys know when I get my truck's thread all up and done to sell. It'll be a good Truck to anyone, I worked hard with it. It's The RCtech page 1 Sc10 4x4 like you veterans.
I haven't decided to go to Losi yet, as I really don't like them even if i'm no longer their competition but we'll see. Thanks for all the help guys. Sorry for my attitude in the past and I hope to continue helping the guys who won't use the search function.

A couple of things, though:
1. The ballistic 550 cans are different from the older HV 550 cans. HV cans may require a little chassis grinding or modification. Ballsitic cans do not. I think you are aware of the difference based on the wording in your post, but just wanted to reiterate it.
2. It is still a tight fit. I have to slide the drive shaft through the motor mount hole and kind of "click" or "pop" the motor timing endbell past the chassis. It's not a big deal. Once past it seems to not touch the chassis at all when positioned with proper gear mesh (32p gears geared 12/62, haven't tried higher pinion yet).
3. I do have a small wear mark on the chassis from the timing endbell. Don't know if this is from hard landings or from moving the motor around during mounting.
Hope this helps. I wanted to get a cool 4-pole, 540 motor but just couldn't swing the extra money when I put the truck together. I run the Havoc Pro SC X-drive/550 4.5T and I am happy (but I am not a hardcore, experienced racer).
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,719
From: At dirt tracks in Michigan!
I'm not an expert on batteries, but just to clarify (or start the discussion, if it can help me or others), I think I am with Keddy on this one. The capacity of a battery, x-thousand mAh, is really just like the size of your gas tank. An R/C with a 6000mAh battery will run longer than with 3000 mAh just like a car with 10 gallons of gas will run longer than it would if you only put 5 gallons of gas in it.
Right for the most part. The key is that the voltage is constantly dropping the whole time. Lets say your car uses 2500 mah in a 5 minute race. With 30 seconds to go this puts your 3000 mah battery at ~7 volts nominal while the 6000 mah pack will be around 7.5. Assuming that the voltage doesn't dip under load at all (infinite C rating), the 6000 mah pack will provide almost 10% more power. It's not just that, your lines would have to change as the race went on to compensate for your continually dropping power and consistency is what wins races.
I don't think this is correct. The "safe" discharge rate of a battery is listed as a C rating. The actual discharge rate will depend on a number of factors including motor, esc (and settings on both), driving style, etc. A higher capacity does not mean a higher discharge rate.
A higher capacity absolutely means a higher discharge rate is available. What we are really talking about with C ratings is how much current can the pack deliver without the individual cell voltage dropping below 6 volts. A 10c pack can deliver 10 times the capacity (in mah) without damaging itself. A 3000 mah 10c pack will give you 30 amps continuous, but a 6000mah 10c pack will give you 60 amps without hitting the lvc prematurely. A 6000 mah 10c pack will be holding a higher voltage than the 3000 mah 10c pack at 30 amps, so the 6000 mah pack will provide more current, voltage, and 'punch'.
Yes, P=IV. But if you want to calculate the "instantaneous" P you are putting into your car, you have to take the battery voltage (let's call it 7.4V) and multiply it by the amount of current you are drawing, at that moment, from the battery (not the battery's overall capacity).
See above as to why the voltage will be higher with a larger capacity pack.
You do see guys get excited about high C ratings, and insisting that they get more punch with higher C rating. I suppose this is possible (and this would also reduce instances of brownouts, as the battery can always keep up with the demand). This makes sense if battery construction for high C ratings ultimately lets more current flow during bursts.
Right for the most part. The key is that the voltage is constantly dropping the whole time. Lets say your car uses 2500 mah in a 5 minute race. With 30 seconds to go this puts your 3000 mah battery at ~7 volts nominal while the 6000 mah pack will be around 7.5. Assuming that the voltage doesn't dip under load at all (infinite C rating), the 6000 mah pack will provide almost 10% more power. It's not just that, your lines would have to change as the race went on to compensate for your continually dropping power and consistency is what wins races.
I don't think this is correct. The "safe" discharge rate of a battery is listed as a C rating. The actual discharge rate will depend on a number of factors including motor, esc (and settings on both), driving style, etc. A higher capacity does not mean a higher discharge rate.
A higher capacity absolutely means a higher discharge rate is available. What we are really talking about with C ratings is how much current can the pack deliver without the individual cell voltage dropping below 6 volts. A 10c pack can deliver 10 times the capacity (in mah) without damaging itself. A 3000 mah 10c pack will give you 30 amps continuous, but a 6000mah 10c pack will give you 60 amps without hitting the lvc prematurely. A 6000 mah 10c pack will be holding a higher voltage than the 3000 mah 10c pack at 30 amps, so the 6000 mah pack will provide more current, voltage, and 'punch'.
Yes, P=IV. But if you want to calculate the "instantaneous" P you are putting into your car, you have to take the battery voltage (let's call it 7.4V) and multiply it by the amount of current you are drawing, at that moment, from the battery (not the battery's overall capacity).
See above as to why the voltage will be higher with a larger capacity pack.
You do see guys get excited about high C ratings, and insisting that they get more punch with higher C rating. I suppose this is possible (and this would also reduce instances of brownouts, as the battery can always keep up with the demand). This makes sense if battery construction for high C ratings ultimately lets more current flow during bursts.
For the whole battery C Rating thing, keep in mind that some companies rate there batteries different than what is considered the norm. And even then, some batteries lower C Rating pack performs better than anothers higher C Rating pack.



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