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Old 04-26-2012 | 06:27 PM
  #14101  
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Originally Posted by JP.R
The springs are totally worth it. Made my car tons more consistant when I put them on. I have been really liking yellow fronts pretty much everywhere and white rears for the most part and sometimes yellow if it's kinda high bite.
JP are you running yellow or white rear at crc?
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Old 04-26-2012 | 06:30 PM
  #14102  
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Is running a 2.5 toe mount with 0.5 deg hubs good for a track that is large with lots of straights?

I really want to try the bigger springs, I'm getting chassis slap.
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Old 04-26-2012 | 06:48 PM
  #14103  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Is running a 2.5 toe mount with 0.5 deg hubs good for a track that is large with lots of straights?

I really want to try the bigger springs, I'm getting chassis slap.
You will get chassis slap no matter what with a b4..best way to prevent chassis slap is to downside every jump perfectly. Nobody in the world can make a 100% perfect run without making the chassis slap ..but try a bigger Number piston in the back possibly..what are you running?

Last edited by B.A. Racer; 04-26-2012 at 07:25 PM.
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Old 04-26-2012 | 06:58 PM
  #14104  
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i was getting pretty bad chassis slap running the kyosho springs with the long pack. i switched to the shorty just to feel the difference and to my suprise much less slap. car was just as planted too. and if your getting slap going to a bigger hole piston is the wrong way. you would want the shock to slowdown the dampining which would be a smaller hole or try thicker oil
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Old 04-26-2012 | 07:01 PM
  #14105  
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Originally Posted by ktchristman33
JP are you running yellow or white rear at crc?
White
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Old 04-26-2012 | 07:12 PM
  #14106  
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Originally Posted by B.A. Racer
You will get chassis slap no matter what with a b4..best way to prevent chassis slap is to downside every jump perfectly. Nobody in the world can make a 100% perfect run without making the chassis slap ..but try a bigger piston in the back possibly..what are you running?
well i bought it from someone already built so I'm assuming the stock pistons.

running stock springs now, green in back, brown up front.

The jobs are about 2-3' high, so I am thinking 30-35 wt oil in front and 27.5-30 wt oil out back?

what do yall think?

I'm still on the short chassis, so it makes it hard to get this thing to go straight since traction is medium at best. I run outdoor, clay, wet initially but then it dries out and gets sandy and dusty, low traction.
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Old 04-26-2012 | 07:28 PM
  #14107  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
well i bought it from someone already built so I'm assuming the stock pistons.

running stock springs now, green in back, brown up front.

The jobs are about 2-3' high, so I am thinking 30-35 wt oil in front and 27.5-30 wt oil out back?

what do yall think?

I'm still on the short chassis, so it makes it hard to get this thing to go straight since traction is medium at best. I run outdoor, clay, wet initially but then it dries out and gets sandy and dusty, low traction.
On the stock kit pistons are #1's front #2's rear..i would try #2 pistons all te way around..with 27.5w in rear and 32.5 in front..that will help with slap and handling
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Old 04-26-2012 | 07:29 PM
  #14108  
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Originally Posted by eper
i was getting pretty bad chassis slap running the kyosho springs with the long pack. i switched to the shorty just to feel the difference and to my suprise much less slap. car was just as planted too. and if your getting slap going to a bigger hole piston is the wrong way. you would want the shock to slowdown the dampining which would be a smaller hole or try thicker oil
I meant a bigger number piston..which is a smaller hole..my bad
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Old 04-26-2012 | 07:52 PM
  #14109  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
Keep telling yourself that...
Dont need to tell myself anything, works just fine.

On another note, got the body painted up tonight.

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Old 04-26-2012 | 10:42 PM
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Hello everyone, I am looking to convert my FT B4.1 from ball diff to gear diff and I was wondering which parts where needed to be purchased to make this transition smooth. I am thinking just the gear diff kit and the 10x16 bearings need to be purchased but I am really not too sure.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 04-26-2012 | 10:55 PM
  #14111  
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Originally Posted by TakeoRyu
Hello everyone, I am looking to convert my FT B4.1 from ball diff to gear diff and I was wondering which parts where needed to be purchased to make this transition smooth. I am thinking just the gear diff kit and the 10x16 bearings need to be purchased but I am really not too sure.

Thanks in advance!
i think u need a rear plate from a corr truck that has a gear diff in it and the diff case for the gear diff, and the bearing and the gear diff, and a ebay account and pay-pal account. cause u might get lucky and find it all together????? I WAS BEING A SMART BUTT ON THE LAST 2 ITEMS!!!!!!
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Old 04-27-2012 | 12:27 AM
  #14112  
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Originally Posted by TakeoRyu
Hello everyone, I am looking to convert my FT B4.1 from ball diff to gear diff and I was wondering which parts where needed to be purchased to make this transition smooth. I am thinking just the gear diff kit and the 10x16 bearings need to be purchased but I am really not too sure.

Thanks in advance!
Check out www.rcshox.com. The center diff for sc10 might work
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Old 04-27-2012 | 01:33 AM
  #14113  
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...eels-Yellow-B4

can anyone tell me if these really are any wider than the std ae front rims?

Last edited by LOSI123; 04-27-2012 at 04:22 AM.
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Old 04-27-2012 | 02:10 AM
  #14114  
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Originally Posted by IRM616
Check out www.rcshox.com. The center diff for sc10 might work
IRM he's talking about the actual diff in the transmission case, what you pointed to is a totally different deal and for the 4x4 only.
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Old 04-27-2012 | 05:35 AM
  #14115  
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJvYf...&feature=share

You can hear my solid yellow B4.1 slap every lap over the single. Just pushing it though. It doesn't really bother me.

That's on the Kyosho yellow/silver springs, #2 pistons in front, #3 in rear. 30wt in front, 27.5wt in rear.
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