RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,161

hahaha i just think we all need more weight in the car, more than putting on big bore shocks and spring.
The idea is to match a light car with light springs/oil..it's all about the setup. In 17.5 class you want a light car, weight limit is 1500g and other manufacturers are closer to that weight than your typical B4 is(i'm at 1640ish). Not to mention that if adding 100+ grams to your B4 would make it handle better, the pro's would be doing it.
The idea is to match a light car with light springs/oil..it's all about the setup. In 17.5 class you want a light car, weight limit is 1500g and other manufacturers are closer to that weight than your typical B4 is(i'm at 1640ish). Not to mention that if adding 100+ grams to your B4 would make it handle better, the pro's would be doing it.
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,161
The idea is to match a light car with light springs/oil..it's all about the setup. In 17.5 class you want a light car, weight limit is 1500g and other manufacturers are closer to that weight than your typical B4 is(i'm at 1640ish). Not to mention that if adding 100+ grams to your B4 would make it handle better, the pro's would be doing it.
Is it possible to get a b4.1 ft to be 1500 to 1550 grams with no lead but with a 310 gram 6200mah lipo? would it require much mods or straight from box might be possible?
I will be putting a 60amp xerun esc in it and a 55gram servo, with shortest wires posible etc....
i suppose i will find out once built, but im just hanging out to know and have never built or owned a 2wd buggy before.
I will be putting a 60amp xerun esc in it and a 55gram servo, with shortest wires posible etc....
i suppose i will find out once built, but im just hanging out to know and have never built or owned a 2wd buggy before.
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,161
i use a old hitec in my buggy i have 3 pes in the front of servo on the chassis and 1 ounce on top of servo, i also found out the the difference between the stock steering and the avid bearing steering pieces, there is a BIG DIFFERENCE in the perforamce, with the avid parts the steering is more direct, u will tell the change i proimes,
Normally you want to run them with the "V" in the middle of the tire facing with the point forward. I accidentally ran them backwards one race, never even knew any difference.
17.5's have to be geared really tall to be fast, thus making the low end softer as a side effect. If you throw the HT rotor in, it adds to that low end while allowing you to keep the high end. In theory you would get more high end too because your temps would drop slightly and you could gear up another tooth 
so more power low end, more power high end = winning IMO

so more power low end, more power high end = winning IMO

The factory clap mobile. But seriously if anyone is interested in a great car, just throw me a pm. I've posted pictures of it on here before. Bob can vouch, I take amazing care of my stuff, and it's extremely fast.
1528g in mod. In stock, I'd find out what the minimum your track goes by and get it as close to that as possible.

1528g in mod. In stock, I'd find out what the minimum your track goes by and get it as close to that as possible.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
The factory clap mobile. But seriously if anyone is interested in a great car, just throw me a pm. I've posted pictures of it on here before. Bob can vouch, I take amazing care of my stuff, and it's extremely fast.
1528g in mod. In stock, I'd find out what the minimum your track goes by and get it as close to that as possible.

1528g in mod. In stock, I'd find out what the minimum your track goes by and get it as close to that as possible.
I built a second car today at the track with nothing but old parts LOL. Only thing is it has a std chassis and I need shocks. gonna be a perfect car for my kid



