5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
01-23-2012 | 11:25 PM
ThunderbirdJunkie is now thoroughly confused. to him, surface area is surface area.
On the same T-bird as the tire example, he upgraded the brakes from '94-5 Mustang GT brakes to similar year Cobra pads and calipers...surface area was bigger without bigger rotors. Sure they were 2 piston calipers versus 1 piston, but really, braking force was drastically improved (mind you the master cylinder in the Cobra was bigger, so that was the source for the greater force; multiple piston calipers' biggest benefit is in linear feel)
ThunderbirdJunkie isn't calling you wrong...but his general experience, along with trying the HT pads on his B4.1FT and SC10 4x4 and being a LOT more grabby, none of this really makes sense to him as far as practical application is concerned.
So uh...when should hobby shops see the FT SC10 4x4 so ThunderbirdJunkie can get one?
On the same T-bird as the tire example, he upgraded the brakes from '94-5 Mustang GT brakes to similar year Cobra pads and calipers...surface area was bigger without bigger rotors. Sure they were 2 piston calipers versus 1 piston, but really, braking force was drastically improved (mind you the master cylinder in the Cobra was bigger, so that was the source for the greater force; multiple piston calipers' biggest benefit is in linear feel)
ThunderbirdJunkie isn't calling you wrong...but his general experience, along with trying the HT pads on his B4.1FT and SC10 4x4 and being a LOT more grabby, none of this really makes sense to him as far as practical application is concerned.
So uh...when should hobby shops see the FT SC10 4x4 so ThunderbirdJunkie can get one?
Don't hold your breath for next month like the thread was told. I'm not calling "liar". It just doesn't add up.
01-23-2012 | 11:33 PM
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 202
From: CALIFORNIA
Amazing how the hot set-up just a few months ago was going Pinned and/or using the Garodisks and/or the MTK Basket... Now I guess its this Center Ball Diff. Well, if ever I'm fortunate enouh to install one in my kit, at least I can still use most of the Pinned stuff for emergency back-up... the Basket & Garodisks though... I'm not too sure.
Its crazy too how fast this thread moves along...
Not too sure if that is a good thing or not for this particular product from AE... 
01-23-2012 | 11:35 PM
The thread should be 400 pages smaller. :P
01-24-2012 | 12:09 AM
ThunderbirdJunkie is now thoroughly confused. to him, surface area is surface area.
On the same T-bird as the tire example, he upgraded the brakes from '94-5 Mustang GT brakes to similar year Cobra pads and calipers...surface area was bigger without bigger rotors. Sure they were 2 piston calipers versus 1 piston, but really, braking force was drastically improved (mind you the master cylinder in the Cobra was bigger, so that was the source for the greater force; multiple piston calipers' biggest benefit is in linear feel)
On the same T-bird as the tire example, he upgraded the brakes from '94-5 Mustang GT brakes to similar year Cobra pads and calipers...surface area was bigger without bigger rotors. Sure they were 2 piston calipers versus 1 piston, but really, braking force was drastically improved (mind you the master cylinder in the Cobra was bigger, so that was the source for the greater force; multiple piston calipers' biggest benefit is in linear feel)
I don't doubt that it feels like more friction. I felt the same thing before the clutch basket going from the standard pads to the HD ones, but I think it comes from the fact that the pads are so much more durable with much reduced fade. While fresh standard pads are capable of more torque, that quickly goes away as they glaze so fast leaving the HD pads with a "more torque overall" feel.
Last edited by CraigMBA; 01-24-2012 at 07:36 AM. Reason: sleep deprevation ain't good for posting
01-24-2012 | 12:39 AM
The SCTE is finally dead! 
Got everything moved over into the SC10 just in time to drive 10hrs and race it haha.
It's got a few upgrades on it; sways, hexes, basket, triple garodisc.
Running a 12t 32p with a Tekin SC4X 4.5. I just ran it around the driveway to make sure everything was okay and it felt ridiculously fast, accelerates a lot harder than I ever remember the Losi accelerating!
Setup? Haha, I have no idea, bought it used off of a local racer whom I have a lot of respect for, he built it very well, the truck is in great shape. I'll probably tweak the setup a good bit at the track. Front feel stiff, I'll probably just dump the shock oil when I get to the track and start with 35wt AE all around or something as a starting point.
Those of you still running stick packs, where are you running your battery (ie: as far forward as possible, as far backwards as possible or in the middle of the tray)? Just wondering. I usually run it as far forward as I can by default, but with the steering this thing has I may move it all the way back.
Stoked to race it though!
Got everything moved over into the SC10 just in time to drive 10hrs and race it haha.
It's got a few upgrades on it; sways, hexes, basket, triple garodisc.
Running a 12t 32p with a Tekin SC4X 4.5. I just ran it around the driveway to make sure everything was okay and it felt ridiculously fast, accelerates a lot harder than I ever remember the Losi accelerating!
Setup? Haha, I have no idea, bought it used off of a local racer whom I have a lot of respect for, he built it very well, the truck is in great shape. I'll probably tweak the setup a good bit at the track. Front feel stiff, I'll probably just dump the shock oil when I get to the track and start with 35wt AE all around or something as a starting point.
Those of you still running stick packs, where are you running your battery (ie: as far forward as possible, as far backwards as possible or in the middle of the tray)? Just wondering. I usually run it as far forward as I can by default, but with the steering this thing has I may move it all the way back.
Stoked to race it though!
01-24-2012 | 01:11 AM
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 202
From: CALIFORNIA
It's got a few upgrades on it; sways, hexes, basket, triple garodisc.
Running a 12t 32p with a Tekin SC4X 4.5. I just ran it around the driveway to make sure everything was okay and it felt ridiculously fast, accelerates a lot harder than I ever remember the Losi accelerating!
Setup? Haha, I have no idea, bought it used off of a local racer whom I have a lot of respect for, he built it very well, the truck is in great shape. by default, but with the steering this thing has I may move it all the way back.
3 Garodisks and a Basket? Might that be overkill? I thought if ever the two were mixed and matched it had to be in combo with the Standard Pads or HD Pads... Best keep and eye on your Idler Gear...
Coyote -
I think you better drop the word "Slash" from your user-name since you now bleed AE Blue!
01-24-2012 | 01:20 AM
Wow! 3 Garodisks and a Basket? Might that be overkill?
I thought if ever the two were mixed and matched it had to be in combo with the Standard Pads or HD Pads... Best keep and eye on your Idler Gear...
Coyote - I think you better drop the word "Slash" from your user-name since you now bleed AE Blue!
3 Garodisks and a Basket? Might that be overkill? I thought if ever the two were mixed and matched it had to be in combo with the Standard Pads or HD Pads... Best keep and eye on your Idler Gear...
Coyote -
I think you better drop the word "Slash" from your user-name since you now bleed AE Blue! Those of you running garodiscs (any or triple specifically) how far out are you running the nut on the slipper?
I need to pick up some idler gears, I have none.
01-24-2012 | 02:01 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 141
From: Sydney
There is a possibility that you have some excess drag in the drivetrain.
What you need to do is unmesh the pinion and spur gear. Then check to see if the truck rolls freely. If it does not, take the clicker off and the rear spur and slipper assembly. Now you can check the front and rear topshaft for any binding in the gear boxes. If it is binding, try loosening the three screws that attaches the diff case to the rear motorplate and in the front, loosen the three scres that attaches the gearbox to the front belt cover.
if you have more questions, fee free to ask
What you need to do is unmesh the pinion and spur gear. Then check to see if the truck rolls freely. If it does not, take the clicker off and the rear spur and slipper assembly. Now you can check the front and rear topshaft for any binding in the gear boxes. If it is binding, try loosening the three screws that attaches the diff case to the rear motorplate and in the front, loosen the three scres that attaches the gearbox to the front belt cover.
if you have more questions, fee free to ask
Checked all the drive and its all free. Clicker is set to 4wd. I have since changed to the smaller overdrive pulley on the front for more front pull. (is this what everyone is doing because otherwise its way too loose on the rear.
Coming out of corners is better but I still want more front drive/pull. The rear breaks traction too easily under power coming out of corners.
Either I need to get more rear grip or more front drive. And this will stop the rear going out coming into corners. It even goes out on tarmac coming into corners with the front overdrive pulley attached.
01-24-2012 | 02:43 AM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 516
Any ideas why my spur and pinnion mesh seems to be so loud, dose not seem to matter if i run them to loose or tight seems to sound like it catching or something. If i take the pinnion off and free roll it sounds very smooth but as soon as i put the pinnion back in the sound starts again, im using the 48p spur and pinnions. thx for any advice
01-24-2012 | 04:35 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 141
From: Sydney
Anyone have problems with the drive belt coming off on the front pulley?
After lots of time and effort I have discovered that when braking, any belt tension tighter than heaps loose and the belt will come off and get jammed under the belt cover. Its caused by the front tensioner 'flexing up' under the load of braking and it angles up and the belt comes off! Bad design in my opinion.
The reason it doesnt come off with the belt really loose is because under braking the belt 'skips' on the pulley rather than tensioning and slowing the front wheels.
Its a fine line for adjustment. Too loose and you risk drive skipping and too much front brake skipping. Too tight and the belt comes off. No matter what you do you cant have full braking power on the front.
After lots of time and effort I have discovered that when braking, any belt tension tighter than heaps loose and the belt will come off and get jammed under the belt cover. Its caused by the front tensioner 'flexing up' under the load of braking and it angles up and the belt comes off! Bad design in my opinion.
The reason it doesnt come off with the belt really loose is because under braking the belt 'skips' on the pulley rather than tensioning and slowing the front wheels.
Its a fine line for adjustment. Too loose and you risk drive skipping and too much front brake skipping. Too tight and the belt comes off. No matter what you do you cant have full braking power on the front.
01-24-2012 | 05:03 AM
Anyone have problems with the drive belt coming off on the front pulley?
After lots of time and effort I have discovered that when braking, any belt tension tighter than heaps loose and the belt will come off and get jammed under the belt cover. Its caused by the front tensioner 'flexing up' under the load of braking and it angles up and the belt comes off! Bad design in my opinion.
The reason it doesnt come off with the belt really loose is because under braking the belt 'skips' on the pulley rather than tensioning and slowing the front wheels.
Its a fine line for adjustment. Too loose and you risk drive skipping and too much front brake skipping. Too tight and the belt comes off. No matter what you do you cant have full braking power on the front.
After lots of time and effort I have discovered that when braking, any belt tension tighter than heaps loose and the belt will come off and get jammed under the belt cover. Its caused by the front tensioner 'flexing up' under the load of braking and it angles up and the belt comes off! Bad design in my opinion.
The reason it doesnt come off with the belt really loose is because under braking the belt 'skips' on the pulley rather than tensioning and slowing the front wheels.
Its a fine line for adjustment. Too loose and you risk drive skipping and too much front brake skipping. Too tight and the belt comes off. No matter what you do you cant have full braking power on the front.
After running the same belt/pulleys/tensioners since last May, it finally happened with my truck. All it took was a lawn dart into a jump face. Next corner, heavy braking, belt came off.
Time for a brace. Then you won't be forced to compromise your tension.
01-24-2012 | 05:07 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 289
From: SoCal
Anyone have problems with the drive belt coming off on the front pulley?
After lots of time and effort I have discovered that when braking, any belt tension tighter than heaps loose and the belt will come off and get jammed under the belt cover. Its caused by the front tensioner 'flexing up' under the load of braking and it angles up and the belt comes off! Bad design in my opinion.
The reason it doesnt come off with the belt really loose is because under braking the belt 'skips' on the pulley rather than tensioning and slowing the front wheels.
Its a fine line for adjustment. Too loose and you risk drive skipping and too much front brake skipping. Too tight and the belt comes off. No matter what you do you cant have full braking power on the front.
After lots of time and effort I have discovered that when braking, any belt tension tighter than heaps loose and the belt will come off and get jammed under the belt cover. Its caused by the front tensioner 'flexing up' under the load of braking and it angles up and the belt comes off! Bad design in my opinion.
The reason it doesnt come off with the belt really loose is because under braking the belt 'skips' on the pulley rather than tensioning and slowing the front wheels.
Its a fine line for adjustment. Too loose and you risk drive skipping and too much front brake skipping. Too tight and the belt comes off. No matter what you do you cant have full braking power on the front.
You need to adjust the brake EPA to the point that the belt does not skip. This is key.
Run the belt tension per the manual.
01-24-2012 | 05:09 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 145
From: Grand Rapids, MI
The triple garodisk/basket setup was recommended to me by more than a few people as being the most durable/trouble free. I hope they were't all wrong....
Those of you running garodiscs (any or triple specifically) how far out are you running the nut on the slipper?
I need to pick up some idler gears, I have none.
Those of you running garodiscs (any or triple specifically) how far out are you running the nut on the slipper?
I need to pick up some idler gears, I have none.
Been running the 3 garodiscs in the basket now since middle of November...finally killed an idler gear about 2 weeks ago, but I run my slipper nut with 3-4 threads exposed.
Just went thru the diffs in the truck last weekend, put the wrong nut on slipper when I was putting it back together and had it almost come off in the main...had about 1 thread holding it on...set track record with it like that...