Castle 1410 fits fine in the SC10 4x4 and works well. You most certainly want better batteries... I agree that 40c is minimum for 4wd SC.

You can actually get the ball diff too tight??? I have the opposite problem... can't get it tight enough, it just slips like crazy when I get on it on the straight or for the big jumps.

it should turn smooth and without that much effort, by watching your truck , it is too tight. I cant make the rear of my truck come around! and definately get that 30k out of the front, try 10k!

You were saying just to bottom out the spring, right?

In oddness of that spur wobbling I think I cranked down on it a turn too much but I don't pull wheelies, but my tires seem pretty ballooned on the ground, so maybe I should back off a half turn. hmm

(It still made a night and day difference, I just need to get it just right and magic will happen)

I cant pull wheelies either but if the front comes up it almost instantly comes back down slow. The thing with John's truck is that it is extremely loose in the rear, it looks like he can barely drive it which is odd.

How would you judge "tight enough" in any way besides the spring fully compressed? I know you're still thinking of a Monkey-proof way to do it, but would "clamping" it down tight then backing off a half turn sound about right? Or do it on a driving reaction basis? (obviously not going too loose) Mine works just fine, I just want to play with it a bit, and wonder if I should even bother.

This is interesting. I read the report saying they didn't run. I understand that they can't spread themselves too thin but pro4 seems to be the most popular growing class.

well thats kinda tricky because it also depends on how old your spring is or if you have a V2 spring which is much stiffer (what i have). But i have accidentally run qualifiers with it slipping and there is no damage, talk about planted! you didnt get the rocket acceleration but it stayed put!

The only way to be absolutely positive is to either sell them with supplied springs or come up with another way of tightening them down. i have some belleville springs that im going to play with eventually but i have too many projects right now and my Laser machine arrived today! im so busy that i cant even fire it up til friday or monday!

From what I hear alot of the Pros think Pro 4 is a "meh" class. They don't think it should be IFMAR (Like instant No's when asked). I dunno. They even Ran Pro Truck instead of Pro 4. Just odd.

Anyone know if this inline saddle solution for Exotek accomodates a RX8? Looks kinda tight.

V2 spring huh. Hm.

Okay. Well too loose isn't bad, like you said, So I think i'm going to back off a half turn and try to get some of the balloon out of the Front. (from previous joke of ruining my Foams)

I ruined two Brand new Hazard Suburb's foams from 1 run the day I got the C-Diff. The Truck never left the ground but the back was pushing harder. (not even close to undrivable like the other guy's though. It was Fantastic) Just constant front balloon.

That looks like it should be plenty of room, Mark.

Actually you may want to tighten it so it doesnt "dif out" before you go loose, it can go either way. Its a fine line, are you on a high grip track? This is why i dont recommend polishing the rings and making everything super smooth like you would a ball dif in a buggy. When i get around to V2 this feature will be adjustable. the ballooning is normal for any car with a center dif my E buggies are the worst!

you can also use a super thick thrust bearing grease to aid.

you need to shim between the thrust bearing and the rear slipper pully about .4/.5mm. This issue came up months ago when the basket first came out. some shafts are slightly shorter than others.

It's high grip in the winter, and NO grip in the summer.
(almost too wet to dust bowl seasonally)

I'm using the Stealth Grease, so I'll get some of your Kyosho thick stuff. Yeah, It just was worse than before. (front ballooning) so I thought I was off on the Diff. I don't think tighter would be good only because I pretty much torque'd that B*tch down last time.

Instructions said till spring was compessed which was about as hard as I could turn with mini tire iron. I tried torquing it down with a socket wrench but stripped out my shaft threads.